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D952
Posted: 02:01 pm Jun 08 2006
by Green Hornet
Well, I put her on today. The 756 being 110/100 & 952 110/90. There is a difference in height & its a PAIN IN THE BALLS to get on (Shorter Side Wall Height) This tire better last longer like Dunlop says or I can not go through the mounting again

Posted: 06:33 pm Jun 08 2006
by Indawoods
Bikebandit.com is having a sale on the 952 right now for $49.50!
This is for the Dunlop 18" 110/90-18 Rear
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/p ... path~2.asp
Posted: 07:30 pm Jun 08 2006
by Indawoods
Slapped the 952 on my brothers new to him bike tonight. I must say.... I like it!
I should trade him rims....

Posted: 08:25 pm Jun 08 2006
by Green Hornet
Was it a bit of a PITA to mount also???
Posted: 08:38 pm Jun 08 2006
by Indawoods
They all are... try a Maxxis 6001 sometime!

Posted: 10:34 am Jun 09 2006
by fuzzy
Oh man, those things really suck to mount! THe sidewall is so stiff I think you could run one of those flat.
Posted: 11:31 am Jun 09 2006
by Green Hornet
The 952 having a SHORTER side wall, made for LESS flexing during mounting
Posted: 03:38 pm Jun 09 2006
by Indawoods
The 952 compound is a very nice compromise. Sticky and flexible enough but is harder to last.
Nice job Dunlop!

Posted: 08:16 am Jun 10 2006
by Green Hornet
It looks so much wimpyerrrrrr than the 756 (Width & Height) I'll find out tomorrow how it holds up in rocks, mud and other unknown crap
Posted: 07:23 pm Jun 11 2006
by Green Hornet
Well, tried it today, it HOOKS UP EXCELLENT. Wet, muddy, slippery rocks, tree roots & Boulders on steept single track hills. Little sign of wear also. My steering stem/assembly loosened up & I did not realize until I was being pounded by the abouve. Kept making a CLANKING NOISE and could feel the front move like a bicycles frontend when it gets loose. Well exactly that. Had to pull out of the race after the 1st lap. Bike was very hard to control in the tight and suspension SUCKED because of the RAKE ANGLE. Check those things boyz & girlz, I was pissed & disappointed. This was the toughest HS I've been to too date.
Posted: 12:55 pm Jun 12 2006
by canyncarvr
It may well be the sidewall that's the PITA part..but I've had different mounting hassles with different tires of the same make/model over the years. My 952 was no more a pain to put on than the 756's have been.
...maybe the bead slipped up and you didn't notice it. THAT'll give you a hernia.
re: front-end loose. Sorry to say it, but that's an indication of not being correctly seated on put-together (for one thing). There is no way it can get that loose unless:
Outer races weren't seated tight/right
Bearings weren't seated on install
Severe bearing failure
The spanner nut came loose
Riding with them loose of course is problematic. REAL easy to damage them that way.
Glad to be of good cheer for 'ya!
;)
Posted: 01:02 pm Jun 12 2006
by Green Hornet


canyncarvr wrote:
re: front-end loose. Sorry to say it, but that's an indication of not being correctly seated on put-together (for one thing). There is no way it can get that loose unless:
Outer races weren't seated tight/right
Bearings weren't seated on install
Severe bearing failure
The spanner nut came loose
Glad to be of good cheer for 'ya!
;)
I suspect either or:
Outer races weren't seated tight/right
Bearings weren't seated on install
It was tight (I thought) when I put together. Well I'll find out soon enough this week. I believe I have to crank down & make sure its seeated, but first I have to check the bearings and race. I think the race may be beaeten a bit, I still have the new ones, so I'll put them in
Posted: 01:28 pm Jun 12 2006
by canyncarvr
You're familiar with the seating method? Say if not...I won't repeat it if you are.
Posted: 01:30 pm Jun 12 2006
by Green Hornet


canyncarvr wrote:You're familiar with the seating method? Say if not...I won't repeat it if you are.
I'll re-read the post in the conversion forum. I did that last time, but I believe I will have to torque it more than I thought.
"put on the dust cap from the KDX and the stem nut from the KDX. Seat about 20 ft. Lb. of torque, loosen, then just past finger tight"
****, I know what I didn't dooo
%^#$%$stem nut from the KDX. Seat about 20 ft. Lb. of torque#$%#^$#%
Posted: 01:50 pm Jun 12 2006
by canyncarvr
You didn't do...what? You didn't put ON the KDX stem nut?..or you just didn't torque it?
WHILE you are tightening the castellated (notched/spanner/toothed if you like...puLEEZE no one take me to task for what a castellated nut is this time? YOU know what I'm talking about!) nut/ring/fastener, rotate the stem assy back and forth to move the bearings during the tightening sequence. Once you have reached the initial torque value (before you loosen it) STOP rotating it, but DO apply upward pressure on the stem. Enough that it does not drop when you loosen the nut. Loosen as described, then good-n-finger tight.
IF you didn't seat the bearing with the 20ft/lbs...there's at least ONE (maybe the only one) of the problems.
Posted: 02:02 pm Jun 12 2006
by Green Hornet
KDX stem nut

Posted: 02:08 pm Jun 12 2006
by Indawoods

Your lucky son!
Posted: 03:37 pm Jun 12 2006
by canyncarvr
Well, for pretty much nothing holding the whole front-end of your bike ON, it worked pretty good, 'eh?
Really, it was held on pretty good..well, if you had the nut on top of the top clamp on. IF you had that on, the front-end wasn't likely to fall off...until that rattling stem beat the pee-wah out of the bearings and itself!
SSshhhhhh! I won't tell anybody if you don't!
Posted: 03:45 pm Jun 12 2006
by Green Hornet
The stem nut was nice & snug on top, just didn't use it to torque down the lower. Well got some fixing ta dooo
Posted: 09:41 pm Jun 16 2006
by Indawoods
Get 'er squared away?