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Hi, all. Sorry for another post, I'm still trying to learn about these bikes. I finally have my kips valves clean and I noticed online everyone has a rod sticking out of the top of both power valves, and mine does too, except the one is not attatched to the power valve, it is seperate. I know that probably is a terrible explanation, but the pictures are below.

When I took it apart they were like this, and as far as I could tell the valves were opening and closing properly. I never actually looked up the exhaust, but the lever on the side was going in and out when it was revving up. Is this how that is supposed to be? Or do I need to buy a new powervalve? I hope not, but if I have to I suppose I will.

Thank you all for your help, it's greatly appreciated.

It is broken.

KDXGarage wrote: 05:38 pm Aug 01 2024 It is broken.

Thanks! I figured so. Would you happen to know why it might break right there? And if there is any way to prevent it in the future? I just bought this bike and am trying to get it into good shape, any advice is great.

Thanks again.

Did you clean them before taking those pictures? Some have reported broken valves due to carbon buildup preventing proper rotation. With them being made of aluminum, they are more easily damaged than the earlier or later version KDX power valves.

Maybe you can find one new one on eBay. Otherwise eBay or direct for BDK from UK valves. There may be another brand as well, but not new Kawasaki. A lot of brands of bikes don't have 30 year old power valve parts for sale anymore unfortunately.

KDXGarage wrote: 01:23 am Aug 02 2024 Did you clean them before taking those pictures? Some have reported broken valves due to carbon buildup preventing proper rotation. With them being made of aluminum, they are more easily damaged than the earlier or later version KDX power valves.

Maybe you can find one new one on eBay. Otherwise eBay or direct for BDK from UK valves. There may be another brand as well, but not new Kawasaki. A lot of brands of bikes don't have 30 year old power valve parts for sale anymore unfortunately.

Yes, they were not clean in the photos, but they are now. I found a replacement on ebay, one of the steel aftermarket ones that you mentioned. I was wondering if it is okay to use a steel one with the aluminum ones that I already have? Or do I need to get them all as steel, or find a used one?

Thanks again!

You can mix them up, just keep in mind the aluminum one will likely fail before the used steel one. Normally they break between the gear and the valve, don't see many of them fail that way. It was still working as that part on top that broke off is basically the guide pin in the bearing block that it fits through.

bufftester wrote: 05:48 pm Aug 02 2024 You can mix them up, just keep in mind the aluminum one will likely fail before the used steel one. Normally they break between the gear and the valve, don't see many of them fail that way. It was still working as that part on top that broke off is basically the guide pin in the bearing block that it fits through.

I think after weighing the prices I'll just get all three steel gears.

Are the steel gears still known to fail? Or if there is proper maintenance they should be fine?

Thanks again for your help.

The steel valves will last a loooong time. Just clean them when the top end is apart next time.

Is that the left one?

KDXGarage wrote: 10:06 pm Aug 03 2024 The steel valves will last a loooong time. Just clean them when the top end is apart next time.

Is that the left one?

On ebay it is reffered to as the right one, which would be when the exhaust side of the cylinder is facing you. Whatever way you look at it, it's the one with the ring on the top of the valve to distinguish it.

And I'm glad to hear they last. Will definitely clean them when I do a top end. The piston rings (at least the top one, i haven't measured the bottom one) right now are a little worn, but at around around 0.022 thousandths (inch) and according to online that is within spec. It had about 140 pounds of compression when I measured it a couple weeks ago, so I should be good for a little while.

Thanks!

When referring to the KDX parts, they are labelled as if one were behind / seated on the bike. The broken one is the right side one, 12005-1122.

BDK version in steel:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265392761958

They do offer the set, as I think you saw already.

KDXGarage wrote: 03:48 am Aug 05 2024 When referring to the KDX parts, they are labelled as if one were behind / seated on the bike. The broken one is the right side one, 12005-1122.

BDK version in steel:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265392761958

They do offer the set, as I think you saw already.

Huh, I must've misunderstood the listing. I ended up buying them straight from BDK, it ended up being around $270 or so. Not too bad when compared to used parts from other bikes haha.

They sell just one, but getting a whole set is a great way to go. I sure can't remember anyone coming back on here talking about KIPS failure from BDK steel valves. :-)

KDXGarage wrote: 04:42 pm Aug 05 2024 They sell just one, but getting a whole set is a great way to go. I sure can't remember anyone coming back on here talking about KIPS failure from BDK steel valves. :-)

Yep! Ordered the whole set a couple days ago, says they will be here by the 8th. Can't wait to get this bike running good.

Post some pics for us of the parts. It is really great they make them still!

Spruce, thanks for bringing this topic forward. I learned some valuable stuff from forum members and you. Didn't even know there are steel replacement parts. And yes, please share new part photos and any notes you wish to share.

billie_morini wrote: 09:10 pm Aug 07 2024 Spruce, thanks for bringing this topic forward. I learned some valuable stuff from forum members and you. Didn't even know there are steel replacement parts. And yes, please share new part photos and any notes you wish to share.

Of course! I just got them, I will post some photos when I start putting them in! :)

KDXGarage wrote: 05:45 am Aug 07 2024 Post some pics for us of the parts. It is really great they make them still!

The valves seem to be very well machined. The only thing that is different between the OEM valves and these (other than being steel) are the timing marks, which are noted by a little smoothed edge on one of the teeth of the gear, and in the idler gear it is noted a tad differently.

Other than that they are the exact same as far as I can tell. They look great. If there is anything else you guys want me to post I will! I will also post once I get them timed in the cylinder.

DAMN! That is some solid steel sex appeal! Thanks for the pictures. They look terrific!

Spruce, many thanks for your photos & notes for these mew parts. The parts look fantastic!

Read what the manual says about lubricating them on installation.

Again, thanks for the pictures!