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I finally got to ride my 220 after having it apart all summer. It actually ran very good and my weird transition from high throttle opening to low throttle opening lean condition is gone. I only rode it hard for about 10-15 minutes to make sure the rings will seat well. I will do it again once it cools off. One issue I am having though. It’s idling low and turning the idle screw in didn’t help much, still have maybe 2-3 turns before it would bottom out, just didn’t have a screw driver to get it in further. I have a 40 pilot in there currently. Didn’t mess with air screw yet.

Just needed to turn the idle screw in more, rode it at a medium hard pace in my backyard again for maybe 10 minutes. I think it’s ready to load it up and hit some local spots. Hopefully it’s not too big of a deal riding it for these shorter periods. I’m just trying to shake it down, seat the rings while still letting the engine go through a couple heat cycles.

Congratulations on finally getting out there! I would try the air screw.

KDXGarage wrote: 04:28 pm Sep 04 2023 Congratulations on finally getting out there! I would try the air screw.

Thanks, temps are all over the place in Massachusetts so I’ll definitely be messing with it a lot. Nearly hit 90 degrees today, looking like temps are going to be in the 70s next week.

You have ridden it. The rings are already seated or they never will be. 2T bikes don't require crazy brake in methods or heat cycles. Just go ride!

Hush it. :-) The average high here this week is 88.

SS109 wrote: 11:06 pm Sep 04 2023 You have ridden it. The rings are already seated or they never will be. 2T bikes don't require crazy brake in methods or heat cycles. Just go ride!

Your right, I’ll just go enjoy the ride

Congratulations! It's frustrating having a bike down for major repairs during the riding season...
Glad to hear you've got it together now

SS109 wrote: 11:06 pm Sep 04 2023 You have ridden it. The rings are already seated or they never will be. 2T bikes don't require crazy brake in methods or heat cycles. Just go ride!

i'm not familiar with this guys build but if its sleeved it requires many heat cycles according to the la sleeve break in procedure, around 6 short heat cycles

kdxdazz wrote: 03:44 pm Sep 05 2023

SS109 wrote: 11:06 pm Sep 04 2023 You have ridden it. The rings are already seated or they never will be. 2T bikes don't require crazy brake in methods or heat cycles. Just go ride!

i'm not familiar with this guys build but if its sleeved it requires many heat cycles according to the la sleeve break in procedure, around 6 short heat cycles

You are correct if it is sleeved. I'm thinking only of a plated cylinder. Just another reason I don't like sleeves.

kdxdazz wrote: 03:44 pm Sep 05 2023

SS109 wrote: 11:06 pm Sep 04 2023 You have ridden it. The rings are already seated or they never will be. 2T bikes don't require crazy brake in methods or heat cycles. Just go ride!

i'm not familiar with this guys build but if its sleeved it requires many heat cycles according to the la sleeve break in procedure, around 6 short heat cycles

It’s nikasild but thanks for the info

I’m getting a good amount of blue smoke out of my silencer, the harder I get on it the worse it gets. It’s pretty thick. I am now running 40:1 Spectro golden, RB 40 pilot CEK 3rd clip, and 150 main. I’m fearing crank seals but they were done 30 hours ago. Going to swap jet block gasket again. Last one I put on this carb was included in a random eBay kit if not that then It just not healthy for me to keep messing with it anymore

JZ05220r wrote: 04:45 pm Sep 07 2023 I’m getting a good amount of blue smoke out of my silencer, the harder I get on it the worse it gets. It’s pretty thick. I am now running 40:1 Spectro golden, RB 40 pilot CEK 3rd clip, and 150 main. I’m fearing crank seals but they were done 30 hours ago. Going to swap jet block gasket again. Last one I put on this carb was included in a random eBay kit if not that then It just not healthy for me to keep messing with it anymore

i used to have the RB carb on my bike, previous owner sold the bike as he couldn't even get it to idle let alone run well, same goes for me for the first 2 years, messaged ron black a few times but he insisted his jetting specs were good, turns out has specs were ridiculously rich and thats why it wouldn't work, as a suggestion try much leaner needles, i had to use a CEQ but i am at altitude and near the equator ,i ended up removing the RB carb and selling it, went back to a stock pwk 33 and was much happier

Did anything happen that could've caused the crank seal to start leaking excessively? Piston skirt cracked and lost some fragments into the crankcase???
"Random eBay kit jet block gasket" sounds VERY SUSPICIOUS, that'd be a #1 suspect... I NEVER trust generic aftermarket parts to do any critical job if any better options are available...

Stick with it... You'll be a lot wiser once you solve it...
Also, could just cheat it and install the Lectron!

kdxdazz wrote: 05:15 pm Sep 07 2023

JZ05220r wrote: 04:45 pm Sep 07 2023 I’m getting a good amount of blue smoke out of my silencer, the harder I get on it the worse it gets. It’s pretty thick. I am now running 40:1 Spectro golden, RB 40 pilot CEK 3rd clip, and 150 main. I’m fearing crank seals but they were done 30 hours ago. Going to swap jet block gasket again. Last one I put on this carb was included in a random eBay kit if not that then It just not healthy for me to keep messing with it anymore

i used to have the RB carb on my bike, previous owner sold the bike as he couldn't even get it to idle let alone run well, same goes for me for the first 2 years, messaged ron black a few times but he insisted his jetting specs were good, turns out has specs were ridiculously rich and thats why it wouldn't work, as a suggestion try much leaner needles, i had to use a CEQ but i am at altitude and near the equator ,i ended up removing the RB carb and selling it, went back to a stock pwk 33 and was much happier

I guess I could try the stock needle and see how that changes things, thanks for the suggestion

Chuck78 wrote: 05:37 pm Sep 07 2023 Did anything happen that could've caused the crank seal to start leaking excessively? Piston skirt cracked and lost some fragments into the crankcase???
"Random eBay kit jet block gasket" sounds VERY SUSPICIOUS, that'd be a #1 suspect... I NEVER trust generic aftermarket parts to do any critical job if any better options are available...

Nothing ever failed within this engine. I will definitely be ordering a new jet block gasket. That has to be confirmed before I try changing jets and needles. I want to insure it seals well and might try using a coat of threebond liquid gasket on the jet block o ring. Not sure if that’s a bad idea. I could lap the jet block to insure a tighter seal as well but that most likely is a very bad idea. I forgot to mention that the idle throttle stop screw is around 2 turns out from all the way in. On the bright side It felt so good to be riding the 220 again, although it’s not 100 percent. Still very peppy and fun in the trails and ripped through the fields.

I checked the jet block gasket with carb upside and gas just over the mating surface. No bubbles, so I’m not too sure that is the issue.

What's your float level? Make sure it's at 18mm and NOT the factory spec.

SS109 wrote: 09:52 pm Sep 07 2023 What's your float level? Make sure it's at 18mm and NOT the factory spec.

I have it set at 18mm right when the tangs starts to touch the spring pin on the float valve. Thanks