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So after replacing every bearing and seal in the cases, the re-plate, piston, etc..my bike was running better than ever. Fast forward a couple weeks and lots of riding...I took the bike out for a couple hours. I was about to pull into my sisters house and the bike backfired hard and shut off, I pulled the clutch lever in, shifted, let it out while still rolling and it started running again and I rode the last half mile or so with no issues. Pulled into my sisters and killed it. Ate and bs’ed with her and my bro in law for about an hour and a half, came out and bike wouldn’t start. No spark. Troubleshooting led me to taking flywheel off and found that one of the screws that hold the stator in place had vibrated loose and tore up my source coil winding. (Lesson learned, use loctite on stator fasteners) So rather than spending $60 to $100 on a new coil I want to rewind mine. I can’t find any info on what size magnet wire to use. I could measure it but don’t have the coil with me and want to get the wire ordered ASAP. Anyone know what gauge magnet wire to use to rewind the source coil? Thanks in advance!

Good luck. I experimented with the source coil years ago when doing my lighting coil tutorial. I found magnet wire that would work, but it was so damn thin, and I seem to remember needing a giant spool of it for the coil since it has literally thousands of wraps.

This it what you need. I rewound my stator with it and doubled the output

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1mm-19-swg-1 ... 635-2958-0

You can follow this guide
viewtopic.php?t=10226

ignition coil, not lighting

KDXGarage wrote: 09:26 am Jul 21 2021 ignition coil, not lighting

That is correct. The write up you sent and everything I’ve found is related to the lighting and I’m referring to the ignition source coil. It’s a good write up, and thanks for your time and effort providing it for us…but not the one I need unfortunately.

Slick_Nick wrote: 07:33 am Jul 21 2021 Good luck. I experimented with the source coil years ago when doing my lighting coil tutorial. I found magnet wire that would work, but it was so damn thin, and I seem to remember needing a giant spool of it for the coil since it has literally thousands of wraps.

I found that one of the source coils I have had about 51 turns in each layer and I think 5 or 6 layers. I just need to know the gauge of the wire. I know I can make a jig to hold the spool and coil while I wind it. And as long as I know what the values should be when I ohlm it out, I should be able to make it work.

Update: I ended up just buying a new source coil from RMstator which is on the way. I also bought a new ignition coil. Anyone have a link or can tell me how to ohm out my CDI so I can be sure that it didn’t get fried when the screw fu$%ed me sideways with no lube? Thanks in advance.

There is no way to check your CDI with just a multimeter. The Service manual (you really, really should have this if you're wrenching on your bikes) provides the following info for the various things you can check.
Primary Winding = 0.16 – 0.24 Ohms
Secondary Winding = 5,000 – 7,600 Ohms
Sparkplug Cap = 3,750 – 6,250 Ohms
Exciter(Ignition Source) Coil = W/R – BK wires: 250 – 370 Ohms
Lighting Coil = Y – BK wires: 1.6 – 2.4 Ohms

Dealers used to have a Kawasaki CDI checker.

Yes, and if you have a good dealer they might even check it for you. In my area the one Kawi dealer went out of business years ago, the next closest is over an hour away and mostly does SxS and watercraft.

bufftester wrote: 05:41 pm Jul 27 2021 There is no way to check your CDI with just a multimeter. The Service manual (you really, really should have this if you're wrenching on your bikes) provides the following info for the various things you can check.
Primary Winding = 0.16 – 0.24 Ohms
Secondary Winding = 5,000 – 7,600 Ohms
Sparkplug Cap = 3,750 – 6,250 Ohms
Exciter(Ignition Source) Coil = W/R – BK wires: 250 – 370 Ohms
Lighting Coil = Y – BK wires: 1.6 – 2.4 Ohms

I do have a manual and look up everything I do in the manual before I do it and reference it while wrenching. But for some reason I had totally missed the page that had that information on it so thanks for that.


I ended up getting the source and ignition coils and replacing them. I believe I received a coil that was wound backwards because the engine is running backwards!

And it took forever to kick over and had to hold the throttle nearly wide open to get it to fire up. It was starting easy and 2nd/3rd kick before.

The timing marks are lined up correctly, woodruff key is installed and hasn’t sheared off, so I emailed RM stator while I do some more research and diagnostics.

The coil winding direction shouldn't really matter, it just needs a magnet passing it to induce a current as far as I remember. But that is very strange if that's the only thing you've changed.

From other posts I’ve read, it does matter which way the windings are wound around the iron core. I may be able to switch the wires around but I emailed RM so maybe tomorrow I will get some more info or another coil sent.