KDXRIDER.NET

Hello Everyone. I'm new to KDX Rider and looking forward to learning a lot from the forum. I was introduced to KDX's back in the late 80s when in high school. Like many of us I got out of riding for a long period of time but have now gotten back into it with my kids. I picked up a 94 about a year ago and have had a blast with it. Recently I picked up a non-running 2000 and have begun a complete rebuild. I look forward to sharing my success and failures as I go.

Welcome to kdxrider. Thanks for joining.

Congratulations on the KDX's.

Instructions on how to post pictures are in my signature.

Here are pics of the 2000 when it last ran I believe and my 94 well stuck in the mud.

Good job on burying it! Ha ha. :-)

Welcome to the forums. You'll find about anything you need/want to know about your bike here!
I gotta' ask....did you buy the 2000 right there in that little water crossing? HAHA!

Welcome to KDX land. Why isnt the bike running? Its actually one of the easiest bikes Ive ever worked on thanks to this site of course!

It would have been better if I had bought it then. The story is the chain broke and wrapped around the front sprocket and messed up the counter shaft seal. He then had to push the bike for 4 hours out of the woods to get home. The fuel petcock was also broken off so I just figured i'd start from scratch on it. It was crazy oily and dirty.

Welcome to the club. Sit back and start reading as there is a lot of good content on these here pages.

Chain wrap you'll want to check the case carefully for any cracks/damage. If the case saver was on and intact there should be minor damage to it, if not you could have more trouble. As mentioned, stupid easy bikes to work on. Welcome to the club and good luck.

I started taking the engine apart and found what appears to be a combination of fuel and oil behind the cover on the flywheel side. Any ideas on what could have failed to allow this in with the flywheel? Is it supposed to be this rusted as well?

The area got water in there to rust the flywheel.

The fuel and oil might be a bad left seal. Pressure test / vacuum test to check. If it needs a new seal, then the cases have to be split.

Yep, leak down test in order.

I finally got the cases split. It looks like this collar is cracked and hopefully was the cause of the leak.

Who put the black stuff between the case halves??

Buy some of this:

https://www.kawasaki.com/accessories/it ... k61079012a

That collar goes on the countershaft, so it isn't the cause of your leak behind the flywheel. Looks as though someone has had that motor apart previously.

bufftester wrote: 09:08 pm Jan 02 2020 That collar goes on the countershaft, so it isn't the cause of your leak behind the flywheel. Looks as though someone has had that motor apart previously.

Yes, stock is gray, not black. Good eye.

thanks for the recommendation on the sealer; I'll add that to the order. There were two leaks on the bike...that I know of. The chain broke and wrapped around the countershaft and hopefully that cracked collar and messed up o-rings were the cause of that. The leak in the flywheel is a different matter. I was going to order a Moose complete gasket set from Dennis Kirk that has all of the oil seals in it as well for about $75. Does anyone have experience with that kit/seals?

Lastly, what is the best way to clean the exterior of the cases for one without a bead blaster? Degreaser/aluminum wheel cleaner and some elbow grease?

Second the sealer. Yamabond is good too. Careful with bead blasting as it can leave the surface slightly etched making it easy to get dirty and hard to clean in the future. Just my experience.
Another tip, see where those wires enter the rubber boot on your flywheel cover? I'd seal around the wires with a bit of RTV. Water can run down the
wires and wet the internals. That bike sat a long time with moisture in the mag cover.

I have yamabond 4. And while moose makes some good products, I’ve never used them. A lot of guys go OEM only. How’s the price compare?

I've only ever used OEM seals and bearings on the bottom end so can't comment beyond the fact that the Moose products I have used (including wheel bearings and other bits) have been fine. Last engine I did (1995 RMX250) I cleaned the inside of the cases with degreaser to remove the solids, and then followed up with soda blasting, though it was probably overkill. You're going to fill it back up with oil and hopefully service it regularly so that level of clean inside the tranny is probably not necessary IMO. But soda blasting does make the outside of the case halves a nice satiny finish. I use a cheap harbor freight media blaster and my 30 gal compressor. Works fine but you can only do small sections at a time. Nice thing about soda blasting is you can do it without a cabinet on the driveway and rinse everything down for clean up.