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I race harescramble with barkbusters on my bars and the OEM master cylinder/lever puts the barkbusters at an odd position. Are there alternative master cylinder/levers available for our bikes?

You can use the KX or KLX master/lever, but I run Cycras on my hybrid with stock levers and have no issue with the lever placement or interference with the protectors.

Call these guys and talk with them. I have their clutch lever on my Magura hydraulic clutch and love it. They have brake levers too. I wouldn't hesitate to shorten a stock brake lever though, if that's the issue. My stock lever is not a problem with Acerbis bark busters.

doakley wrote:Call these guys and talk with them. I have their clutch lever on my Magura hydraulic clutch and love it. They have brake levers too. I wouldn't hesitate to shorten a stock brake lever though, if that's the issue. My stock lever is not a problem with Acerbis bark busters.

Which guys? I use enduro engineering bark busters

I'm running Cycra's on mine too with the KDX master cylinder. I was having problems because the brake line wanted to hit the barkbuster near where it mounted in the center of the bars. I had to either pull the guards up higher than I wanted, or roll the lever forward more than I wanted. I didn't realize that I could use those round spacers to push the guard out away from the bracket on the bars. Once I put those in there, I was able to get better guard/lever placement. Still not exactly how I wanted it, but its better and I can live with it.

See the spacers between the mounts in the center of the bars and the bar that wraps around your hand?


Or are you having another problem?

Tyl3r wrote:I'm running Cycra's on mine too with the KDX master cylinder. I was having problems because the brake line wanted to hit the barkbuster near where it mounted in the center of the bars. I had to either pull the guards up higher than I wanted, or roll the lever forward more than I wanted. I didn't realize that I could use those round spacers to push the guard out away from the bracket on the bars. Once I put those in there, I was able to get better guard/lever placement. Still not exactly how I wanted it, but its better and I can live with it.

See the spacers between the mounts in the center of the bars and the bar that wraps around your hand?


Or are you having another problem?

That's the exact problem. Great idea, much cheaper than an alternative master cylinder. I'm gonna go find myself some bushings

Yes, on my Cycra Pro Bends I also use the spacer bushings for the correct clearance, If they weren't in there I would have interference issues.

Willbilly wrote:

doakley wrote:Call these guys and talk with them. I have their clutch lever on my Magura hydraulic clutch and love it. They have brake levers too. I wouldn't hesitate to shorten a stock brake lever though, if that's the issue. My stock lever is not a problem with Acerbis bark busters.

Which guys? I use enduro engineering bark busters

Aw, crap! http://www.midwestme.com
Sorry

The bushing won't work. Its the position of the hydraulic line connection on the master cylinder that hits the bark buster mount. I'm going to end up purchasing a compatible master cylinder that has a hydraulic line connection on the bar side of the master cylinder.

Ehh yea, those are different guards. I had those ones on my old KDX and they never fit right for me either. I just moved everything to get something I could live with. I know they are pricier than the ones you have now, but the Cycra Probends are awesome and they will fit for ya.

I wondered if you trimmed 1/2" or so off your bar ends, if you could move that clamp closer to the center of your bars and it would fit better?

Or if you just flipped the handle bar mount upside down, it would help? I don't know, just spit-balling.

If you go with a new clutch perch, I don't think a bottom output wouldn't be bad either.

You may be able to move your master cylinder out 1/2" on the bar and get clearance. Also if you are wanting to rotate the barkbusters down you may gain help by flipping the mount over so the curve part is on the bottom. From the pictures you posted there appears to be slight contact on the rubber boot at the end of the brake line. Personally I could live with it like that, especially if the alternative is dropping more money on a master cylinder. But then, I am cheap lol

Tyler: I've cut the bars down to the limit I'm willing to go and have already tried flipping the mounts. Great suggestion on the bottom output as well. I'll reach out to Nissan and find a compatible perch if I go that route.

Bufftester: thanks for the idea, I recently removed the light switch & didn't even think to slide the lever in, I will try that tonight and report back

Moving the lever closer did not work. The lever can only get so close before it hits the throttle assembly. Different perch it is.

I found a solution... file down the bark busters in the spots that are in the way. Will send pic soon when I finish the job.

I was messing around with the 220 rolling chassis in my garage this weekend. I was looking at the bark busters on that one, and they are the same type that you have pictured above. The mounts on that one are mounted upside down in relation to how you have them. Everything fits good for me with them mounted that way.

I don't know if this would help any, but these Cycra U-clamps seem to work pretty well on mine. Though I do have an aftermarket brake hose too (Core Moto braided)... I don't remember if the stock hose was wider up there or not. But the clamp goes right over the hose.... seems to work well with my Cycra probend composite guards

http://cycraracing.com/cycra-1151-02-se ... ts-system/

I bought a different brake line to replace a worn brake line, it didn't have the large rubber guard on it and now everything fits perfectly.