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turning right does not hit the tank, but turning left does ever so slightly. how should this be corrected?

Build up the stops by adding a little metal.... by welding.

I heated and pressed the tank in a little bit just where it touched.

i don't have a welder, so i guess the heating and pressing things sounds good. except for the addition of heat and volatile fumes and explosions, etc. should i empty the tank and then take a torch and lightly heat and then press on the area to deform the plastic? this is just HDPE plastic right, so i should be able to form it and weld it, etc? any tips?

NO FLAMES !!!

I used a $20 heat gun. Just grap one they are very, very handy for a whole heap of things from changing tyres to getting marks out of fenders.

Empty the tank and I let mine air for a few days. Take the cap of and start heating in small circles around the area. Take your time so it doesn't discolour the plastic. If you keep feeling inside the tank (your longest fingers should reach the area you are heating) you will feel when it gets too hot to hold your fingers on and should be ready to press in. You have to find something smooth preferably steel or hard plastic to use to mould the tank. If you pressed your finger onto it you will see fingerprints, so something very smooth is imperitive. Heat the plastic enough to be able to mould it but not melt it too much. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Have some chilled water handy to cool it quickly once you are pressing / moulding it in. If I have missed anything just ask again, sorry I'm running on fumes sleep wise.

A teaspoon works well for the moulding tool BTW.

Cold water? Is that the plastic tempering process?

You did it...I didn't...so I guess it works, but there isn't cracking to worry about?

Yep it's a pretty scientific process so I shant confuse you with specifics. I learnt it from an ancient samurai swordsmith.

Nope no crack's here... You don't need to heat it up to 'THAT' degreee.

FYI. An almost empty tank is more volatile than a full tank. Fumes are explosive not the fuel in liquid form . Remove the tank to be safe.

What...it won't blow up if you remove it?

canyncarvr wrote:What...it won't blow up if you remove it?

Of course it will but it won't take the rest of the bike with it.

A heat gun won't produce any spark/flame anyway.

After airing for a day or two I doubt you could even light it if ya tried too.

re: '...but it won't take the rest of the bike with it.'

Just the guy cradling it in his crotch while he heats it?

As long as you have a real good heat gun...you could just fill the thing with water.

LOL. You just have to be careful with 'a real good heat gun' that you keep it moving in circles as not to burn, blister or discolour the plastic. It will start to turn brownish if you are burning it. AND NO I didn't burn mine, I practiced on an old fender first. Good luck, it really is very easy.

I would recomend drilling and tapping the bottom triple tree stops and screwing in a bolt on each side. This way it is adjustable.

I thought about that for mine but-

I would need soft metal screws so not to scratch my frame.
and
I only need about 1 mm more clearance at the stops. Hard to get 1 mm unless you sink the screw.

How would you lock the screws in place (adjustable) at the desired distance without using a nut that would result in greater build-up?

I have not decided what I am going to do with mine but I would prefer to keep the full travel of the steering and not permanently modify anything.

Put the bolt through the other way so you can screw it through the stop. The exposed threads would act as the adjuster.
Oh and Loctite of course...

The exposed threads would act as the adjuster.

.... and the scratcher.

Not with a rubber cap on it...

If yours is anything like mine, I also thought about getting a machinist to bevel the edge off the top clamp. I would only need 1mm or so...

File her down .

I will have to take a closer look at mine, I have not really thought about it much, figured I would save it for last.