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Hi gents, I'm trying to put a new throttle cable onto my stock 92 kdx200 carb. I've got the slide out, spring pulled back, play in the cable, but how do I actually get it out? Or the needle, for that matter? (It's a little bent)
I tried turning the 6mm off center nut. No dice, lost a little material instead.
Help?

Joy to the world!

You will need to remove the 6mm center nut to expose the slot for the cable and to gain access to the needle.

I think my cable end easily slips out of the 6mm fitting. The fitting keeps the needle and clip in position. Don't think you have to remove the fitting (center) to remove cable end.

bultaco4ever wrote:Don't think you have to remove the fitting (center) to remove cable end.

You are correct.

Compress the spring. There should be a white plastic fitting that sits under the spring. With the spring compressed, you should be able to lift the white fitting out of the way. Push the cable into the slide and then it should come out.

It is one of those things that if you saw how it is set-up, it would make sense. I wish I had a picture for you.

I'm weighing getting an RB designs Stryker carb, but wanted to get things fired up with the stock one first. There's no white plastic seat for the spring that I can see, and no way the cable end is going to fit through that opening. Either I'm missing something, or the new carb is coming sooner than I planned.

I've got it all soaking in some wd40 for now. Does the cable need to come out before that 6m part does? Socket doesn't fit too well with the cable in there.
:headscratch
Joy to the world!

When I recently took mine apart to to inspect the needle, and to see what the clip setting was, I had to hold the cable to the side while I loosened the nut. Yes it was a pain, but once you have it apart you will understand...

The fiche for a '92 shows the same collar. Maybe it isn't white or plastic, but it looks like the same set-up on the H series.

http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/ ... carburetor

Do you have a stock carb?

The cable end should fit in a 'slot' along the side of that fitting that has the 6mm hex head on it. You should be able to push the cable end down a quarter of an inch so that it can release away from the 'slot.' I usually use needle nose pliers to keep the spring up near the cap and then I can remove the cable in the manner that I just described.

If the needle isn't perfectly straight....time for a new needle....they are cheap. The Kawi dealer needles are more $ than someone like Jets R Us. Jet's R Us will use Kehein part numbers instead of the Kawi part number. You should get a BGN or BGP which corresponds to the RN1172 or RN1173 Kawi part number. What exhaust do you have? Stock or FMF or something like that?

KDX pioneer, Jeff Fredette, has some great advice on jetting on his website. Fredette Racing Products in the KDXposed section. Just google KDXposed and you'll get there.

kx200 wrote:https://www.youtube.com/v/xjU6CGONUVY

Good find.

bultaco4ever wrote:If the needle isn't perfectly straight....time for a new needle....they are cheap. The Kawi dealer needles are more $ than someone like Jets R Us. Jet's R Us will use Kehein part numbers instead of the Kawi part number. You should get a BGN or BGP which corresponds to the RN1172 or RN1173 Kawi part number. What exhaust do you have? Stock or FMF or something like that?

KDX pioneer, Jeff Fredette, has some great advice on jetting on his website. Fredette Racing Products in the KDXposed section. Just google KDXposed and you'll get there.

Got the cable out. It works exactly as you guys said, the plastic sleeve was kind of gunked/wedged in there. I saw it move but couldn't pull it out. After awhile I flipped it over and smacked the slide on a hard surface and it popped out. Cable swapped, cool.

As for the needle, I'll order another when I can get this one out. Can't get the 6mm to budge, though. It looks pretty corroded down there. It's been tragically a little rounding off, so I stopped trying until I have a better approach.

Fmf gold pipe, stock silencer.

Edit: haha, helpful video now :)
Joy to the world!

put the carb in hot water to warm it up, then spray it with pbblaster. do not use 11 point sockets on aluminum.

it will PLINK then be free.

ohgood wrote:put the carb in hot water to warm it up, then spray it with pbblaster. do not use 11 point sockets on aluminum.

it will PLINK then be free.

Nice. The carb? Or just the slide?

Joy to the world!

Update: Put it in hot water, didn't hear a plink, hammered a 6p 6m socket onto it just like in the video. Came right out. Thanks guys. Looks like an r1173n needle on 2nd slot from the top.

I'm preparing myself mentally for engine break in. Ride it like you stole it method seems to make the most sense.

Joy to the world!

R1172N = BGN from jets r us................$6.51 richer (skinnier needle)

R1173N = BGP from jets r us................$6.51 leaner (fatter needle)

With an FMF pipe....Fredette recommends a leaner pilot jet and leaner needle but a richer, fatter main jet.

On PW35 Kehein carb.......48 was the stock pilot jet and R1172N was the stock needle. So, I have gone to a 45 pilot and the R1173N needle (which is the BGP part according to Kehein...they don't use Kawi part numbers) and I have gone from the stock 150 main jet to a 152 ....the next size up.....

The bend is above the taper, and very slight. Think it'll actually matter? (Read: I'm cheap and don't want to throw any more money at it until I hear it run for the first time)

Joy to the world!

It will probably be smokey when idling and when you gas it at low rpms. Smokey exhaust will probably clean out as you hit higher rpms. Some drool may drip out of the exhaust port.

Smokey at idle from a bent main jet needle? I thought it doesn't use the main jet at all at idle..?

Joy to the world!

Maybe your experience is different but, when using a FMF pipe, the stock carb jetting is too rich on the low rpm side and lean on the high rpm side. I did not mean to imply that a bent needle would cause a too rich mixture. I'm assuming that it has no affect at all.