KIPS shaft lever nut

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 06:52 pm Nov 22 2015

My new to me '93 200 is getting the top end overhauled. So, I am removing the Kips shaft kever nut for the first time. I read that it is a LH thread. So I have to turn the nut clockwise to loosen it. When I turn it, the shaft and lever moves and pulls the operating rod out. Can I damage anything if I put the necessary torque on the nut it to loosen?

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 07:51 pm Nov 22 2015

Should use a wrench or pair of pliers to hold the lever, then loosen the nut. I find an adjustable wrench works well

Post by **SS109** » 10:07 pm Nov 22 2015

Yes, breaking the nut loose without holding the arm/shaft it's attached to can damage, or even break, the KIPS pin that engages the KIPS governor.

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 10:39 pm Nov 22 2015

I got it off....head removal next.

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 10:45 pm Nov 22 2015

I got the head off easily....new topic coming....it appears that both of my Kips valves are broken. Cylinder walls look good.

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 10:50 am Nov 23 2015

Update: the news is 50% better...only one of my Kips valves is broken. I was confusing the idler gear with the valve. The right valve is intact and that explains why when I looked up the exhaust port and moved the operating rod only one of the valves appeared to move. So, this begs a question about compression measurement. Would one inoperative Kips valves cause a low compression condition? I only could get a 70 PSI reading before I took the head off. I have been anxious to get a cylinder measurement reading. I haven't removed the cylinder yet, but I did measure the top part of the cylinder. It appears to be worn very little. I was expecting more wear but it's very close to 66.002 And appears to be square. Walls look in good shape. Maybe the rings are worn. The piston has a number "4313L" stamped on it. Can anyone tell me if this is a Kawasaki ID number or another brand piston identifier?

I joke about the news being 50% better. I'm still probably in the market for a complete set of new Kips valves and idler gear stuff.

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 09:16 pm Nov 23 2015

Heya, I'm in the same boat on my 92. Left valve gear broke off, rotated and wedged against the kips shaft. Teeth came out a little rough. I just ordered a new one from ronayers (dot) com for around $50.
Couldn't get the front right cylinder bolt lose with tools o had on hand, so that's my next step, but a wiseco top end set is on the way!

Oh, and to stay on topic, when I removed the left thread bolt, instead of grabbing the shaft to hold it, I put an awl type tool in the hole on the shaft and secured it from turning with that.

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 12:00 am Nov 24 2015

Upon further review, both Kips valves are broken. The little nub on the end that sits in the journal at the bottom of the valve cavity is broken off. It was hiding down there.
So, I need the Kips trifecta. Two valves, one idler gear, three collars. Those steel ones are looking quite attractive.

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 04:12 am Nov 24 2015

Steel ones? Do tell? Do you know of a good source for these? I might road the whole set if I come across a good price.

Right now, though, my piston is stuck in the cylinder. I have it sitting in a pool of oil to help loosen it up, and it has budged a little. I was hoping the bottom end would move more with the cylinder loose, but so far it's frozen.
Anyone know if this is a dead giveaway that the cases need split and the bearings replaced? PO said it rotated with good compression a few weeks ago, but I'm starting to question that..

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 07:32 am Nov 24 2015

BDK racing in England. There is a large thread conversation here in the "200E" forum. Its only a couple topics below this one. About 135 L (UK pounds) plus shipping

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 10:17 am Nov 24 2015

https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/ ... e=56ACCE40

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 10:20 am Nov 24 2015

That is a picture of my idler gear, and two exhaust valves. One broken off below the splines. One with the journal nub broken off. And it still ran great.

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 01:17 pm Nov 24 2015

Definitely worth having a look at BDK race engineering's stainless valves here---> http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 15&t=17339

Direct link to product---> http://bdkraceeng.co.uk/tc/products.php?253

If you will be in the market for a new set of valves, BDK offers that set that comes out to be a little more $ than the equivalent cost of the OEM parts(If you can find them) but worth it considering they should never break

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 08:50 pm Nov 24 2015

Shame I just ordered one for half of their price of the whole set. Well I have to get my bottom end sorted out before ordering more parts anyways, but now I know where to go. Thanks!

6 Riders · Post by **6 Riders** » 09:06 pm Nov 24 2015

Friedom wrote:Shame I just ordered one for half of their price of the whole set. Well I have to get my bottom end sorted out before ordering more parts anyways, but now I know where to go. Thanks!

They are not going to have it and will let you know it's not available around Tuesday of next week. Then you can go get the set that Brock makes

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 10:26 pm Nov 24 2015

Haha true story. Ronayers teens to be pretty good about their stock, so I guys we'll see.

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 04:28 pm Nov 25 2015

I just ordered the steel valve kit....yay

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 12:05 am Nov 26 2015

mine is on the way also!
And ronayers quickly responded to my request to cancel shipment of the aluminum one.
So I ordered a Tusk engine rebuild gasket/seal kit instead. Looks like I'm going in.
1

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 09:20 am Nov 26 2015

Good for you. Are you splitting cases? Take lots of photos. Ive never done it and I want to learn how.

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 05:02 pm Nov 27 2015

There are a couple of posts on here about doing it. Looks pretty straight forward. I'm hoping I can use my brother's harmonic puller to split so I don't have to order another tool. Have a flywheel puller on the way (I already have two for different bikes. Why not?

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