KDXRIDER.NET

Owner said he was going down the road and it went poof... and hasn't been able to get it running since. I just went out to have a look at it..it goes through every gear, turns over and even has some compression Holding all the coolant. Brakes, suspension, clutch, plastics and frame all seem really good

My first assumption is it dropped the skirt, my worst fear being it needs bottom end work, split case and a top end replate. Other possibility is it just seized up and became unseized? He didn't say the rear wheel locked up on him, didn't sound very mechanically inclined and hasn't had it apart...

Anyhow, should be a fun project. Wanted $1000(%750usd), I offered $700($530usd) and he bit

Gonna do a VIN check then we're going to pick up this '01 KX250! Much excite

Ive got a 2000 model I built from a scrapheap and I love it :)

The only negative is that these model kx's weigh a ton. More than a 450 actually. Lighter tires, aluminum bars and rear sprocket, drilling holes in the seat base to lighten it, and a shorter front brake hose can actually knock off about 6-9 pounds if combined with a lighter aftermarket pipe a couple more pounds can be shed. Cheap aluminum bolts can be bought on ebay and used in NON STRESSED areas like fender and mudguard mounts and radiator shroud mounts.

Yep it sure isn't very light. Honda has had aluminum frames for nearly 2 decades ow on ther Cr's, and Kawi didn't introduce them until 08/09 if i'm not correct. What's up with that?..

Anyways I started digging into this thing tonight and this is what I found!:



Pipe off and this is what dumped out of it:



KIPS lever completely seized. Won't budge



Got top end off, piston is missing a chunk of skirt on the exhaust side, like it sheared straight across



Had to pull the KIPS valves from the cylinder with vice grips, they were stuck so bad in the holes due to dried up spooge

yuck



SO...what's the deal? Only dropped a bit of skirt, plating on the cylinder is fine, hell the piston hardly has a single scuff on it.

It threw a lower rod bearing-----> gif http://imgur.com/ODNm2EF.gif

Piston looks like it sheared straight across 'cause it smashed on the bottom after the bottom end bearing went?

Me and brother (we split on the bike 50/50 and even haggled the guy down to $650) are deciding which is best route, either have the crank rebuilt and rebalanced with just a new conrod

OR buy a new bottom end kit like the one offered by Wiseco or Hotrod, that includes the crank bearings, seals and such...

Lots of research and shopping around for prices to do

New bottom end kits are easy to use and cost about the same as rebuilding the crank, so that would be my choice. Just an FYI, stay away from the Wiseco cranks, they are garbage.

Am told Wiseco's are trash! Makde in China....first I read a nightmare story of one snapping right off on the left side and sending the flywheel into a freewheel spin and destroyed the stator / magneto cover...

My brother who contacted his mechanic buddy who does work on his 4-joke crf(shh) says he's had them let go after 10 hours

So.much.spooge

Much better

Seriously,a hotrods crank will do. Like I told u on kxriders, I used one on my 2000 and its been fine.

Well we're doing bearings and seals for sure...

Rod kit = $140 cad

Crank bearings + seals = $80

Crank rebalance + labour = ~ $100-$150 ~ or more

total = $345

Almost the exact same price as a hot rod bottom end kit(main bearing/seals and complete gasket set) off ebay

I got my hotrods bottom end kit for $206. Gotta shop around.

Id get a hotrods "bottom end bearing" kit for $80 as well if I were you since youll have the engine apart. Bearings are great quality in those kits believe it or not.

Congrats on the bike.

Good luck on the rebuild.

I hope your hand is healed!

It has healed up nicely, the surgeon did a good job...has all strength back just can't fully flex the finger and I think it'll stay that way

Here is my current progress..

Motor out, most of the stuff removed except clutch hub and basket, gear shift mechanism and various gears..I'll do it tomorrow I need a 29mm socket and an imapact

In the mean time i just clean all the gunk and liquid gasket stuff the previous owner slabbed all over it...



A couple quick sketches of some tools my brother can whip on the floor at Goodyear



Enough room to lay out the gears and shift forks, guide rails, drum etc

Oh F...looks like the crank flung a needle bearing and put a sizable hole in the case when it exploded Something to add to the expenses list

Depending on the cost of a case half, that could be welded up by a reputable welder for probably cheaper.

well yea

Thinking I will go Pro-X for the rod kit and piston kit...all made in Japan, read only good reviews so far..

All Balls main bearing and seal kit...Koyo, made in Japan as well

$125cad for the rod kit, $100cad for the piston kit, $50cad main bearings and seals...have everything shipped free to Wellesely Island, NY. Drive 45 mins, cross the border and pick it up. Badaboom

OEM Gaskets and oil/water seals I can get from Kaw at local dealer

Right through



Roasted main bearings...is it normal for them to look that shitty? and really gritty



Kinda hard to see but there's a huge scrape starting in the bottom of the case where it appears something got jammed under the webs and dragged it around and around

Actionman, did you happen to run into this KIPS timing dilemma on your '00 of the subvalves only opening half way? Some I have found, who recognize this just ignore the timing marks and turn the subvalves one gear away from the timing indicator. including Eric Gorr even states what is written in the manual is confusing and has his own method of installing the valves (see page 20 in his document)