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There's been a lot of confusion pertaining to changing the mechanical seal for the water pump. I was just as confused when I went to change mine, so I figured I'd do a how to thread on changing the mechanical seal and oil seal.

This how to is for the KDX 200 H series. It also applies the the H series 220.


Obviously we're going to need parts, so order up the mechanical seal, and oil seal. They can be found in the link below. Also included with the mechanical seal is the black and white part that sits inside the back of the impeller, and the metal cup the sits inside the water pump hole. These pieces make up the mechanical seal. Here are the part numbers

Note: Pay no mind to how the diagram has the parts in order...It's wrong.

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/199 ... 6#sch63173

Water pump mechanical seal: P/N 49063

Oil seal: P/N 92049B

Also, you'll need the right side engine cover gasket. P/N 11009A

Now I'm just doing the the mechanical seal and oil seal, But all the parts and part number are on that page if you need any other parts for the water pump.

So, let's get started.

I had already removed everything and had everything on my table, so I just put everything back together with 1 or 2 screws for the sake of this How To. So don't be scared when you only see 1 or 2 screws holding my right side together, haha.

First thing you'll need to do is drain the oil and coolant. Next you can remove the clutch cover. Pay attention to the longer screw on the top right. It'd be bad news if you put that anywhere else besides where it belongs.

Once you got that off, you can go ahead and take the clutch spring bolts out. Loosen them in a cross pattern, this way you're not putting too much pressure on one side.



Remove the springs, rod, ect and set them aside.

Next comes the nut that holds the clutch on. I usually put the bike in 6th gear and apply the brakes. It helps to have a long wrench for leverage.



Pay attention to the washer right behind that nut. Don't lose it.

Once that nut comes off, the clutch basket, ect, will slide right out. Make sure that the shim, and the washer behind the shim don't fall off as you're taking the clutch off.



Now you'll need to remove the kick start lever bolt and kick starter.



Now you're left with this



Remove the water pump cover and kips cover




Remove all of the engine cover screws, and slide it off.



You're bike should look like this now



Ok, guys. Here is where a lot of people (including myself) get confused. In this picture, we have the oil seal, mechanical seal, bearing, impeller, and shaft. Remeber, the mechanical seal consists of the metal cup, the little seal that sits inside of it, and the seal that sits inside of the impeller.



Take the mechanical seal (metal cup), and press it into the engine cover from the outside, so that the edges of the seal touch the step inside of the engine cover.



Next, take your oil seal and press it onto the back of the mechanical seal. Do this from the INSIDE of the engine cover. Make sure the flat surface of the oil seal is facing the outside of the engine cover.





Next, press the bearing into the the water pump hole from the INSIDE of the engine cover. Make sure it's flush.



Next, slide the shaft into the back of the bearing like so



Now we have the impeller and the other half of the mechanical seal. Just press it into the impeller, with the white part showing





It's also a good idea to put some coolant on these parts as you're installing them. Gives it a little lubrication.

Next just tighten the impeller nut down to factory spec, put it all back on the bike and go ride!


I think I covered everything. Let me know if I left something out.

Good write up! I'd like to add a couple things;
There is no need to remove the outer clutch cover or clutch, you must remove your pipe to access the whole right side. Having gaskets for the water pump and KiPS cover isn't a bad idea. If you don't need them, save them for another time.

6 Riders wrote:Good write up! I'd like to add a couple things;
There is no need to remove the outer clutch cover or clutch, you must remove your pipe to access the whole right side. Having gaskets for the water pump and KiPS cover isn't a bad idea. If you don't need them, save them for another time.

True about the outer clutch cover. I forgot to add that I was replacing the clutch gasket as well. My pipe was already off, so it kind of slipped my mind, haha. I'll update it with the kips and water pump gasket info tomorrow. Thanks for the input. :)

Great! Thanks for taking the time!

Bitteeinit wrote:Great! Thanks for taking the time!

No problem, man. I just know I hate being confused when it comes to working on my bikes, so hopefully this will help SOMEONE out.

I realize this is an old thread, but I've got milky gear oil & think I might have to do this job. I just wanted to say thanks to superman27e for a great write up! If i change the oil and it's still milky, I'll be printing this out for a thorough how to. Thanks again! And thanks to the KDXRIDER.NET crew for a great website. You guys do a great job making this resource available to us.

Anyone know if there's a writeup like this for an E series? Or is it basically the same? Do I not need to remove the outer clutch cover?

Update: No need to remove clutch cover and clutch.
I'm doing this procedure on a 93, though I suspect a 89 engine was swapped in. The cylinder cap says E1.
There's no mechanical seal, apparently, on this e series. Is that the way they were? Or is it just missing from my assembly? I took out the oil seal and bearing, but there was no washer or mechanical seal behind the impeller. Marking on the impeller back looks like a washer or something should be there, but nothing was there when I took it apart.
Also, a thin washer fell out of the case when I took the cover off. It's just about the right size to fit on the kick start shaft, but I don't see why it would be there?

Only rubber lip seals on the E series. 89-90 use a single seal, 91-94 use two seals.

Thanks. Only one seal came off, but two went on :)
I don't see why it's necessary to remove exhaust to do this job? Wasn't necessary at all for me.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Please someone help me!!!
have just completed a full rebuild and the tell hole has leaked within the water pump.
have realized the mechanical seal has failed. Have a new one however can't work out if it is save to install over the shaft once impeller is remooved as the width of the seal is half a mm larger than the opening.

Please Help many thanks kiwi friend!!

Do you have a diagram of what order the parts go in?

"Good job, guys. "

Were you able to figure the water pump seal out?

For those of you that have done this, what tools did you use to remove the mechanical seal (the one with the spring)? I'm having a hell of time getting that out. Also what bearing puller do you prefer for this application. Thanks for any help.

Usually I use a punch and hammer to drive the bearing out and then a socket and hammer to drive out the mechanical seal. A blind bearing puller would work well on the bearing as well.

Thanks for the great write up. I have a 1991 KDX200F, I'm in Australia. I think it is the same as the SR model because it is road registerable and has the oil injection (disabled) and prob used to have a steel tank, now plastic. It is definately the E series, but has the H series water pump impeller and mechanical seal. Without this write up there is no way I would have been able to work out what was going on with my setup. Good onya mate.

Hi All.
I'm new to this forma stuff but somebody out there may be able to help out.
My bike is a KDX 250 I think its a SR model, numbers on the frame and engine have long since gone, people tell me its about a 1993 ~ 1994
The problem is the water pump, I need a complete kit including the alloy impeller, but cant get this or even a parts list.
The description of the main seal is a tubular rubber seal that is spring loaded, the impeller has a ceramic washer which the seal.
I'm hopelessly in love with this bike but without this seal is just junk.
With thanks....Abseiler....
P.s
The 200 and 220 KDX bikes seem to be a bit different (very close but different) as far as the seals are concerned.

The 200 and 220 (H and A models) use the exact same seals. Along with just about every Kawasaki ATV and a large portion of their bikes. Not sure how much it differs from the SR as we didn't get that model in the states, but I would guess that it is more like the E series 89-94 200s.

this one?

https://en.impex-jp.com/catalogs/moto/k ... -1562.html

Please start a new thread if it continues as a general parts inquiry. thanks!

Thread may be dead but just in case: how did you drive the metal cup seal? Did you have a press or did you tap it in?

I use thin wall socket that's the same diameter as the seal and drive it by the edge of the seal. You don't want to go beating on the spring portion.