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The '89 owners manual recommends lubricating the KIPS valves with 2-stroke oil during reassembly. How do the KIPS valve remain lubricated? Is it the mixed fuel that somehow gets into the KIPS and lubricates it during use? I know some people use grease, some people even use aluminum wax and give the valves a rub-down before installation but, I cant imagine that would last more than a few hours under high heat and would burn right off rather quick. During re-assembly of my KIPS, I didn't notice any way for fuel to get in there, just exhaust residue. Is that the lubrication, exhaust residue? Also, people who pull the left side cover off and lube up the operating shaft before a ride, do you also replace the gasket on that cover every time?

Moly grease. Premix takes care of it from installation on out..

I didn't use moly grease though, I used a little concoction of mostly high-temperature brake grease and a bit of 10w-40. No issues for about a half season last year. I checked the KIPS 2 weeks ago and feel nice and smooth

Just be sure to run the darn things throughout your ride. The less time they are moving, the more likely they are to become seized!

Gotanubike, what manual are you using? I am using the '89 KDX200 sevice manual and heres what mine says:



It's no wonder so many people have problems with KIPS valves. Lack of proper lubrication? Kawasaki made no mention of this in my '89 service manual OR my '93 service manual supplement. Also, no mention was EVER made, that I know of, of the change in the main exhaust valve design from '92-'94. The new main exhaust valve installation procedure was also never mentioned anywhere causing much confusion.

Another question. Again, NOT mentioned in the service manual - does the operating rod get extended IN (valves closed) or OUT (valves open) when tightening the "left handed" operating rod nut with arm? (I'm not talking about the operating rod retaining screw). My guess would be to tighten the left handed nut with the operating rod "IN" because the valves are in the closed position with the bike not running? It IS possible, it seems, to screw this up if you tighten the nut down with the operating rod in the incorrect position. right? wrong?

In - this is valves closed and at idle right? tighten the left handed nut down in this position?


out - this is valves open and at high rpm's right? I DONT think you would want to tighten the left handed nut down in this position?


I'm really glad for this site, thanks for all the help.

Apparently I have U.K model 89-94 manual. Don't ask where I got it, my brother sent me the link

Yes, you want to set the lever and tighten down the reverse nut with the valves completely closed. Use a wrench or some pliers to hold the lever in place and tighten it down, but you shouldn't need the wrench for tightening, usually just for disassembly. Or else it can snap back after the nut breaks loose and sheer off the pin down in the case.

I just smother everything in 2 stroke oil

Thanks for the verification. The service manual you have seems to be more accurate. I'm guessing when they underlined in red to use grease, this was meant to show an important change (or was that just your editing?). I'll lightly coat the KIPS gears with high temp grease instead of 2-stroke oil.
I knew about supporting the lever rod when removing the reverse nut, thanks. Very important.

Yeah I just did that underline edit in paint

High temp grease seemed to be the logical choice for me. it's degradation rate is slow and holds up in engine running temperature. I may have mixed in a bit of anti-seize too I don't remember.

But like JoshMcmillan says just smother everything. I pretty much just dipped the operating rod in the tube and installed it. Apply the lube to every contact surface.

2 stroke oil would work and its probably what helps lubricates the valves in the long run - from leftover oil and carbon that eventually gets blown out the exhaust. I'm also thinking that a 2-stoke runs about 200F and a good high temp grease, is good for what, 300-500F? If I coated my valves with that molybdenum disulfide grease, that should stay stuck to the valves for a long time. The change in the service manual from oil to grease also got me thinking a little coating of high temp grease is a good idea.

My 89 manual says grease.

Does yours or Keystone's manual say "U.k. model only" somewhere in the middle of the second page?

my second print, august 25, 1995 (kdx 200 E) manual with supplement says nothing about grease

Mine says 2 stroke engine oil (see photo above). On the second page it says "First Edition (2): May 7, 1990 (M). On the back it has a Part No. 99924-1114-01. Doesn't say anything about "U.K. edition" or anything.

Well I guess there's the answr. U.K division of Kawasaki likely took into their own hands the transcription of the original Japanese KDX manual, as did the American, Espanic and every other I'm sure ...leaves me wondering how the original Japanese manual transcribes though

yes, but UK is the SR model, correct? I wonder if the oil reservoir model makes a difference? what is the factory suggested oil mix ratio of the UK SR model

32:1

Nothing about oil injection.

Gotanubike wrote:Does yours or Keystone's manual say "U.k. model only" somewhere in the middle of the second page?

It does, but I think that is in reference to the asbestos warning.

Also if it was a UK manual, wouldn't tires be spelled tyres?

Since ultimately all kdx 200's are 2t, and the exhaust gas gets in the kips, why would be a difference between continents? the lubrication, I would think, should be the same. Am I missing something on how oil injection works? is it cleaner?

I would think using grease that doesn't degrade and go away after a while will starve the kips alum on alum bearings of any new oil. Personally, I would spend $45 and pull the top end down once a year. clean and lube kips, new rings or piston... these systems will last for a long while then.