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Well...the guy SAID it was.

The 952. It's a tad less $$ than the 756s I usually run. It's supposed to be better...'natch.

Anyone tried one of these?

They local shop guy said he can't keep them in stock..and his suppliers are backordered for weeks!

Any opinions.

Please...no 'I use XX-XX and like it fine!' replies. I'd just like to hear about the 952.

No /100 aspect tires on hand...I'm putting on a 120/90.

Thanks.

I've never seen one of those before. Let us know how it goes. This on the front or back?

Shhh!!! m0rie... he only wants a response to his question and not a lot of "blah blah blah" replies.

BTW, he told you.
(Hint: review his aspect.)

It has the tread pattern of the old 752 but is suppose to be more durable.

Be careful on that size CC... I don't think you will like it. I regret getting the 130 Michelin ... too much roll I think, they feel squirrelly if you ask me. Next time it's a 110!

I have the Kenda Trackmaster and I like it fine!

Gee. Thanks there, Wib!! I knew I could count on you! M0rie, too!! ;)

re: too much roll

Meaning too round? A 130/100 Dunlop would be pretty darn big.

He had a 110/90...but it was a good bit shorter than a 110/100. I don't need more gear than I have already.

It's going on this week. Supposed to be wet the next several days...so this coming weekend should be a pretty good tester.

Oh...m0rie...I'm putting it on the back.

By "roll", I think he means the tire flopping over, or rolling to the side during cornering. It could happen when one buys a too wide tire for a certain rim size, maybe not 110/100, but maybe 120/100 or 130/100, something like that.

Same rim size for a KX500 as a KDX I believe: 2.15

Doug hauls around a 140 M5B. The sideways flex could be felt if you are going motocross rocketship speeds, but I just don't see it at trail riding speeds of under 25 mph and realisticly most of the trail are under 20mph and more like 15mph.

The 19" rim of today's MX bikes have very low profile tires on them to prevent such an occurance. But I don't think we are banging our bikes that hard traversing ruts and such while setting up for a 45 foot tabletop jump like a MX bike would be expected to do.
My rule of thumb is to go with the meat your motor can turn. I've tried narrow tires and wore the knobs off in less than 4 rides. I've ridden a 120 M5B for the whole summer and it is shot, but really hung in there.

canyncarvr wrote:Gee. Thanks there, Wib!! I knew I could count on you! M0rie, too!! ;)

It's going on this week. Supposed to be wet the next several days...so this coming weekend should be a pretty good tester.

Oh...m0rie...I'm putting it on the back.

Anytime CC, you know you can always count on me!

I didn't realize they made 18" rear tires in less than a 100 aspect. Not really sure why you would want such a beast, since that will make the sidewall shorter correct? And thus more likely to have pinch flats?

In the last 20 years, I think it goes:

KX125/KDX200/KDX220 is 1.85"

KDX250/KX250/KX500 is 2.15"

Thanks Jason. I have a modified rear wheel on my KDX and didn't know it!! It's a 2.15.

M0rie:
Yep..shorter than a like width /100. That's why I chose the 120/90...a bit wider..a bit taller than a 110.

I figure the shorter sidewall will cure the handling problems I encounter when hard traversing ruts and such while setting up for a 45 foot tabletop jump.....

I'll be looking for any tire floppin'!!!

This may have been covered, but do you notice that when certain tires have about 50% of the original knobs left, traction really goes to CRAP & NEW RUBBER is needed. I feel the S12 (front) really breaks loose when this is the case. But looking at that tire it has less than a 1/4 inch wear. In the other case my 756 (rear) has close to 1/2 inch wear and still hooks fairly well. Maybe its reality or just my delusions

Sorry, Rondo Talbot. I forgot you already knew about that.

Wider/flatter then... the wider part will cause roll... and taller just exasperates the problem......and you don't have to be going a bagillion mph to get it either Jerry. A corner with a rock or branch in the path will cause a slight slide... not the tire mind you but the rim on the tire.

I guess I could run 40#'s of pressure and I wouldn't get it but that's not me.... so that's my thinking on the wider/taller tire issue!

[quote="Indawoods"]

I regret getting the 130 Michelin ... too much roll I think, they feel squirrelly if you ask me. Next time it's a 110!





Are you talking about a 130/80 Michelin? That IS a 110.

I've gone through LOTS of tires on the back of my bike in only the past 2 years. The only major notice I've been able to detect is the rubber compound. If a rock or branch on a trail is felt in the roll of the tire to the rim at trail riding speeds, then you have a much greater sense of feel that I ever will. (and some pretty well groomed trails cause all the trails I've ridden are rocks and branches, or so it seems) I've not been able to tell size differences apart; even in effective gearing changes that a tall, as opposed to short tire would provide. Nor much in a narrow vs wide tire. For example, a Maxxis of any size or model will not grab traction even when brand new, (and yet I read in many instances other people swear by them) just ask Brad as he saw me spin, grunt and push my bike over several very easy obsticals. I've tried several and instead of passing the POS onto someone else, have tossed them after only one ride in disgust. Where as an "over sized" IRC M5B, a soft terrain tire, works wonders in anything I can roll it over until either I rip too many knobs off, (hard to do with the KDX) or it's worn to the cords. Currently have one on my KDX right now that has less than 1/4" knob height and I'll run a full enduro with it this Sunday without worrying about it.
Far more important, assuming you don't have a totally useless rear tire, is the front tire. A front tire that inspires you to hold on the throttle until deep into the corner and allows you to brake with the front brake with vigor is much more valueable in any situation other than a hill climb, than the rear tire.
Also, in my not-so-humble opinion, I believe a steering dampner is much more important to rut handling than any tire composition or profile. Ruts, roots, logs. It doesn't seem to matter nearly as much with a dampner on board as to what the rear tire is. I rode last weekend on my KDX without the Scotts dampner, (I had it on the KX and my son was riding that) and you talk about a squirrelly handling bike!! Yesterday I completed an auction for another Scotts, that's how much I think they are necessary for a safe ride. I won't let anyone ride one of my bikes without one while I ride another bike with one. That's cheating, it makes that much felt difference.

Sorry Carvr, totally gone from your origonal post, I know. But don't let that keep you from reporting on the tire's performance. I'm always interested in your opinion and evaluations.

Rondo Talbot? Now what is that all about? (I know who he is, just not sure why you dredged him up) A real Mr. Know-it-All.

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fulltiltboogie wrote:Are you talking about a 130/80 Michelin? That IS a 110.

Not sitting side by side it's not. The 130 is huge in comparison. The bike sits much taller now... by an inch or two....

My brother has a 120 on his and it is much closer to a 110 than this thing.

110



130

Bigfoot truck called and wants its tire back.

I wasn't going to hijack this thread any further but I thought, heck everyone else has.

I bet anyone riding behind you with that tyre has a happy dentist...