KDXRIDER.NET

And so it starts.....

Just brought home a complete but siezed KX125 2000.

Have got the bits I want off the KX now. Any body want the rest?

So will the stock springs be ok for me at 100kg?

Will strip the forks tonight.

100 Kg? Technically no, but you will be softly sprung and overdamped on valving. I would just ride it first and go from there.

Ride height and sag will be off. Proper springs are for there.

I will have the forks apart for new seals and bushes so may as well do the springs. Racetech site says I need 4.6 springs.

Reckon I should drop a main shim out of each valve stack?

Search the internet for information on replacing the o-ring on the midvalve with a spring. (for those forks) (and 1999)

I would suggest removing two of the largest face shims instead of just one.

I did a fork conversion for a buddy with 2000 KX125 forks, but naturally I can not find the valving I went with on his forks.

Jason wrote:Search the internet for information on replacing the o-ring on the midvalve with a spring. (for those forks) (and 1999)

I would suggest removing two of the largest face shims instead of just one.

I did a fork conversion for a buddy with 2000 KX125 forks, but naturally I can not find the valving I went with on his forks.

Thanks for that.

I do now remember going with .4mm of float on the midvalve.

I just looked onlline for info and the first three posts with the search terms I used turned up 3 hits from me.

Here is a great one from a great guy.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/572915 ... pic-heavy/

Jason wrote:Here is a great one from a great guy.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/572915 ... pic-heavy/

Wow, thanks. I can cope with that.

I will do some searching on the floating mid valve. Not something ive done before.

Should I be disabling the bladder as well?

Closer look at the forks shows tool marks so they have been apart before. We will see what I find in there.

Intresting read, http://haroldbawlzangya.com/forkrevalve/

What im after is not to much dive under brakes or going down hill, so good low speed dampening and plush high speed for hitting roots etc. I have carpel tunnel issues so the big knocks hurt.

The stock fork is not bad by any means, I think it has stronger springs in it from when I got it as I dont have some of the issues with diving. But at speed it beats me up.

Hmmmm

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showth ... ge=2&pp=10

I disabled my buddy's bladders.

Marcus is a great guy and gave me great advice several times. He is the one that gave tips on the midvalve and lift.

Bladders will be coming out along with the seal ring. Just need to find some photos of how to do the mid spring mod. But first I need to get them apart and see what has already been done in there. Off to get a 14mm alen key today.

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showth ... ge=1&pp=10

As best I remember, the little spring was about the same style s the spring in the base valve.

I assume the end of the cartridge rod is peened over the nut. Pack the tube with grease, then flat file it down before cranking on the nut.

I can;t remember if the seal head of the cartridge needs to come off the cartridge or not, to get the rod out. Maybe with the split keeper half rings it will just slide down. I can not remember.

I did read that leaving the mid valve alone, removing the bladder and running 2.5w oil was good but Im not sure about that.

Hmm, failed at the first step. Base valve wont come out.

The cartridge is spinning in the lower. Tomorrow I will get the air gun on it.

robkdx wrote:The cartridge is spinning in the lower. Tomorrow I will get the air gun on it.

Scrub that I think I will just make a tool out of tube. How hard can it be?