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OK, prepping for the fall riding season and did the shim stack mod, by removing 2 additional shims out of the shim stack, previous owner already took out 2, I did not care for it, so took out another 2, with the hopes of an improvement. I cleaned the forks the best I could without disassembling and added Mobil 1 Syn ATF @ 100mm fork oil level.

I also added a Pro Circuit set of dog bones which spec out @ 117mm, which are the KLX 300 ones, with the hopes of dropping the height of the bike just a smidge. It dropped 10mm, that's it.

I am at the point I want to set the preload for the rear, which is out of spec, so after applying a vigorous amount of wd 40 on the shock spring collars and letting sit I attempted to adjust the collars with a punch, no go, those suckers wouldn't even budge. I tried laying bike on side to remove any weight on it, again, no go.

So my question is, does an adjustable collar wrench work (standard one has 0 chance of working), or do you have to remove the shock in order to adjust the preload ???

Many Thanks in Advance !!!

Michael

I have never had an issue adjusting the preload with the bike on a stand so the rear is unweighted, then usually a big flat blade screwdriver and a hammer does the job. If the collars are badly corroded to the shock body it might be easier to remove the shock first and then get them turning before reinstalling and adjusting.

Hi Bufftester,

Yes, tried on the stand and laying down, got no where. I guess I was asking if a tool, vs. a punch and screw driver would work with the shock in place. Kawasaki did not leave a whole lot of room to work with.

i.e. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/53 ... tment-tool

Something along these lines.

If push comes to shove, then I agree, the shock will have to be removed in order to get the collars functioning.

Best I can figure is the threads might be a bit buggered up on the shock body, but they look OK from my vantage point.

Michael

I doubt you could get that tool in there to turn the adjuster.

One is a locknut, and one is an adjustment nut. If a lot of WD-40 didn't do the trick, then pull the shock and mount it in a vise. After it is in a vise, some tool as shown will have room to work.

I have found that just removing the airbox gives a lot more room to work with the adjustment ring. It helps to remove the subframe section on the left side of the bike to get the airbox out. One bolt just above the footpeg, one just below the seat.

The Owner's manual states the left subframe and airbox should be removed and both side panels and seat.

Do you really have to remove the seat and the right side panel as well ??? It's not a big deal, just askin'.

Thx !!! Michael

Yes, to get the airbox out.

Thanks GSA102 !!!

OK, so I followed the procedure to a "T" and when I got down to the collars, they were corroded together (extremely unusual for a California bike). So I had to take a dull screwdriver to the top locking ring to free from the lower ring. Once I freed them up from each other, the lower ring adjusted like butter. It took me 20 minutes to disassemble and reassemble, so definitely they way to go. I put a light amount of marine grease on both collars rings, so it should not happen again, well at least not for awhile.

I have the correct collar adjustment tool and no matter how much pressure I could put on it, they would not budge until I freed up the top collar from the lower one with the dull screw driver.

I looked at this and scratched my head, why on earth did Kawasaki "not" put in a removable sub frame. They only did one side and have easily done it to the other side and the top. My guess is the $2 to 3 in additional expense for nuts and bolts. But at the same time, it would have been easier to manufacture, saving that $2 to $3 in welding labor.

BTW, doing as the owner's manual procedure states leaves a TON of room.

Any rate, many thanks again GSA102.

Michael

The OEM wrenches shown in the manual work well together as a pair. They are shaped to be used on each ring. When turned in opposite ways when the shock is in a vise, it works well. Still in the bike? Not so much.