KDXRIDER.NET

So I was warming up my ride yesterday in the driveway and just as it was getting warm I was revving it to try to clear a miss in the upper rev's and cough splat . It didn't sound good and stopped right away. I thought at first that I may have eaten a sub-valve but I tore down the top end and both piston skirts were chewed off. bummer, I've been on like 3 rides so far.

I'll post some pics later this morning and show the damage as I need opinions on the cylinder at the ports and powervalves. The crank is full of skirt bits and isn't rotating freely at the moment.....

thats what cast pistons will do!.........check the bore clearance...i bet its on the verge of being replated. to much clearance in a bore with a cast piston..........=BAD

Yeah I bet your right, I noticed a crack about 5/8 inch long at the center kips valve too.
This sucks

my buddies 200 also bit the dust. I doubled him back on doubletrack 7 km to the campsite, and then they took the pick up truck on a 90 km round trip mission to go find his bike.

No word on the failure, but he did say it was running real rattly and he was taking it easy on her because he knew it was time for top end. doh!

heckler wrote:my buddies 200 also bit the dust. I doubled him back on doubletrack 7 km to the campsite, and then they took the pick up truck on a 90 km round trip mission to go find his bike.

No word on the failure, but he did say it was running real rattly and he was taking it easy on her because he knew it was time for top end. doh!

That sucks, I feel his pain. I've gotta stop bitchn and just go tear into it and make it good again, it's just the cash that's got me down.

he's talking about putting a 220 jug on instead, so alls well that ends well. :)

heckler wrote:he's talking about putting a 220 jug on instead, so alls well that ends well. :)

Downgrade? Why???

juliend wrote:

heckler wrote:he's talking about putting a 220 jug on instead, so alls well that ends well. :)

Downgrade? Why???

bahhhhh!
+1

he rides a trials tire. real slow rider.

ok so I've decided to fix it.
I just bought a 90 bottom end in good shape and the cylinder from that bike as well from fleabay. I ended up cracking my case halves in the blow up.
I figure I would have needed cases, crank bearings and seals, countershaft (wearing out) and a clutch basket/actuator so this should do the trick for $220. Hopefully the cylinder bore is decent enough for a new piston and rings. It looks in the pics like it has a nikasil coating cause it's kind of coppery in the photo's but we'll see. The kips is a mess but I think the left sub valve is alright which is what I need anyway. The rest of the parts I have except for the piston.
Crossing my fingers
Fletch

Just finished the rebuild today, a cylinder from cvtech aab in Quebec Nicasil'd up they did an excellent job, sized it to a new wiseco I sent them and chamfered all ports, very clean solid work. Oh and the turn around was one day! They had one in stock. My only dissapointment is that the cylinder I sent off aside from the plating was in a bit better shape in a few small areas, but I'm happy.
Bike sounds and runs great, I went to a 45 pilot and ended up back with the stock 48 to get the air screw right
Riding on Saturday in Calabogie

Good news. Nice to have another E still kicking up dirt.

Good to go for a long time to come now. Search on here for the support plate Juliend came up with for the KIPS on the E-series. FYI, A 220 cyl wouldn't have worked, BTW....H motor.

The kips seems to turn smooth and the shaft doesn't have play but I'll check it in a few rides and see. Using Amsoil Interceptor.
I'm going for the first ride in a while tomorrow so keep yur fingers crossed for me! I would love to see this thing go for a long time!

be sure not to rev it up until AFTER it is properly warmed. There is no "clearing out" a cold engine. It'll last a lot longer for ya ;)

juliend wrote:be sure not to rev it up until AFTER it is properly warmed. There is no "clearing out" a cold engine. It'll last a lot longer for ya ;)

+1

The reason a bike won't run clean when it's cold is because, well, it's cold! Fuel doesn't atomize well in a cold engine so it will not run clean until it gets up to it's operating temperature. Like juliend said, ALWAYS let your bike get up to operating temp before revving it.

Gottcha I plan to let it warm up until both rads are warm/very warm to the touch before I set out.
Does it seem right that the 48 jet would no longer be rich on the new top end because of the increase in compression? The 45 was hunting and pinging and the air screw was only about .25 a turn out so I went to the 48 again and it was good

No real need to go to that extreme

I warm mine for about a minute just idling, then I just hop on and slowly roll through the gears, about the time I hit 4th it starts to clear out

I wait until it doesn't need the choke to run and leave it idling. Then I start putting on my gear. By the time I finish putting on my gear (boots, gloves, helmet, pressure suit, hydration pack) it is ready to ride.

SS109 wrote:I wait until it doesn't need the choke to run and leave it idling. Then I start putting on my gear. By the time I finish putting on my gear (boots, gloves, helmet, pressure suit, hydration pack) it is ready to ride.

+1