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Molly's has Bueno compression and was brave enough to press "the button."

Molly's, here's what I think about the 2 plugs & wiring diagram.
1) the two plugs are for charging the battery with a running engine and both connect with a rectifier (regulator [that KDX does not have]) when wired to charge battery by a running engine
2) the diagram and the wire colors for one of the rectifier plugs are not consistent
3) the yellow & red plug wire pair likely directly relate to the diagrm's black and red wires that connect to the rectifier
4) I'd share the photo of the 2 plugs and diagram wth Pathera / Sebastian with a query to verify any / all of the above

Stoked to see this, thank you for sharing. Excited to see how it works, super jealous!

billie_morini wrote: 01:11 pm Oct 29 2024 Pumpguy: answer to your question is "no" because Molly will run a total loss system (e.g., no on-board battery charging)

Now understood. Thanks for clarification. Wouldn't a regulator/rectifier provide onboard charging? If yes, that would make for an Estart KDX dual sport.

pumpguy wrote: 04:02 pm Oct 30 2024

billie_morini wrote: 01:11 pm Oct 29 2024 Pumpguy: answer to your question is "no" because Molly will run a total loss system (e.g., no on-board battery charging)

Now understood. Thanks for clarification. Wouldn't a regulator/rectifier provide onboard charging? If yes, that would make for an Estart KDX dual sport.

PUMPGUY: In addition to adding a regulator / rectifier, you'd need to replace the KDX's OEM lighting coil to produce adequate juice. It's pretty wimpy and originally required to only illuminate a weak headlamp and tail light. As is, headlight brightness is influenced by engine RPM (because there is no battery).

It is possible to make and/or buy a coil with adequate output to charge a 12V battery and/or directly run brighter lights. Some of the forum members provided very detailed posts with descriptions and photos for how to wind your own improved coil. You can also purchase a commercially manufactured on like from Rick's Stators.

It's not that big a deal to run a total loss starting system. The engine is easy to turnover, today's small-ish lithium batteries provide good Cranking Amps (CA), and the selected starter motor is efficient. You'll easily get 2 to 3 days of starts out of a charged battery. When I roadraced, some of the guys that routinely kicked my ass ran total loss ignition systems. This may partially be why it doesn't seem like a hassle to me. Also, I already have a total loss lighting kit on my KDX that runs off a very small NiCad battery. It runs street legal tail light, 4 blinkers, and a horn. The headlight runs off the original lighting coil. Not all states allow the latter. Some require an onboard battery capable of 2 to 4 hours of headlight operation.

Looking at the wire loom picture, and the wire diagram they provided (which is the same diagram for every kit they sell regardless of brand) The connector with 2 yellow wires is for connecting to your lighting coil as in the Baja Designs lighting mod. The connector with four wires (2 yellow and 1 black, 1 red) is to connect to the rectifier shown in the wire diagram. I assume they did not provide this item as it isn't in any of your photos. It does appear that for some bikes (like the YZ250) you can get a charging kit which includes a stator and a rectifier that has plugs that match those in your photos. It is not included in the KDX kit as the website clearly states the KDX installation is a non-charging setup (i.e.: total loss)
Also, did you leave your charging connector attached to the battery, would make it easier to charge and not require you to disconnect everything. You could run the plug out somewhere where you wouldn't even need to take the seat off, just plug in the charger and go. Slick setup.
One other thing, does the red wire connection to the starter not have the protective boot installed? I see two of them in your photos, one should go over the starter connection and the other should go over the battery connection to prevent any accidental shorts in the tray.

bufftester. Good call on the protective boots. I still need to tidy up some wiring & haven't put those on yet. I still have to tidy up the battery area also. So far everything is working fine. I have not looked at Baja Designs. I'm not opposed to trying anything. I'd have to keep with this thin lithium battery though.

If you know of a way that I could add a charging system, with the same plugs, I'd be grateful. I'm putting on a street legal kit also.

Just trying to have a little fun around here.

Doing the floating ground and Trailtech charging mods aren't that bad, I did it on my hybrid not that long ago. See the third post down on page 9 of my build thread, have some photos of what I did using pretty much all Trailtech stuff. viewtopic.php?f=111&t=18327&start=160

I had a Baja Designs dual sport kit on a 220 a long time ago and kind of tried to mimic what they did with mounting most of the stuff to the back of the headlight. From where I am now, I could easily add turn signals, starter, etc. I did not upgrade the stator on this bike, if I was doing what you were doing with a starter and dual sport kit, I definitely would. I just wanted to eventually run LED lights.

I was going to share my wiring diagram and I found one I had printed off this site. I forgot about this thread, great diagrams from bufftester! I followed his direction and had no issues.
viewtopic.php?f=77&t=18134&hilit=floating+ground

Rubber boot installed. Charging plug installed. I will figure out better routing for this.

I had about 2 extra feet of the main wiring harness to tuck away, so I formed it to fit behind the side cover & zip tied it in place. The rubber tube is the breather for the starter housing. I just routed it up & into the airbox.

Molly's, have you started the engine with the button? How quickly does engine fire up? Is stater assembly noise minimal? Does stater assemble interfere with lower leg or foot? Enquiring minds...

Starter turns the engine over like a boss. Starter noise sounds normal. Not loud at all. Starter cover does not interfere with the foot.
Overall, I would give the kit a double thumbs up! Quality kit Easy install. Could be installed in a couple hours if one wanted. If you want one, I recommend it.

It will be a while before I take it out for a ride. I don't anticipate any issues.

I'm actually in the process of sending a new FMF pipe & turbine core to Jet Hot coatings in Oklahoma City. That will take 30 days (after they get it) for turn around.

Thank you for all your effort in documenting the installation! I know several have shown an interest over the years in such a kit.

Molly's, thank you for answering my additional questions. Your photo journalism reporting is fantastic! billie

Molly's, New question: Will e-starter spin & engage with transmission in gear with clutch lever NOT pulled in?

In first gear, with the rear wheel off the ground, it spins it nicely.

billie_morini wrote: 10:44 pm Nov 13 2024 Molly's, New question: Will e-starter spin & engage with transmission in gear with clutch lever NOT pulled in?

I would suspect yes since there appears to be no sensor for determining gear position or even bike running. Just a hot switch all the time.

Yes, it's just a hot switch. Seems to work really good.

Molly's and bufftester, thank you both for addressing my question. billie

I'm definitely interested in getting the button and a charging system going for my plated 200. Would like LED lights and maybe some accessory charging abilities, and of course not having to kick would be nice sometimes. Thanks for posting all this. Curious to see how it does over time.

Any further updates?