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Posted: 08:02 am Aug 10 2010
by bulabula09
sweet bike man! try powder coating your rims black or green thats what i did to mine and i havent had any problems with it it all, it holds up nicely
Posted: 07:12 pm Aug 12 2010
by frankenschwinn
Posted: 10:20 am Aug 27 2010
by frankenschwinn
Sun I pulled the motor and completed the final fab work. All Pieces are in place and temp paint is done.
I cut the frame loops from the KDX and welded them to the KX frame:
I had made a Skidplate for the KDX and it ifit perfectly. The one thing I hate about the skidplate was the hassle of getting it mounted. So I made plates with nuts welded to them and welded those to the frame to eliminate the loose skidplate mounting brackets:
I had bought some new footpegs that were a little bigger (the original ones were bent anyway) and found that I had to pull the motor to get the clutch side mounted. So I took the oportunity to install them while the motor was out. Also, riding trails without a kickstand really sucks so I bought a Trail tech for a 2003 KX125 (they don't make one for an 02) and modded it to fit::
While working on all of this I found that my kick starter was cracked. I have a KX250 kicker on the way but I welded this one for the time being:
Should I put the KX125 kicker on the 250 knuckle or just leave the 250 kicker?
All that is left is the 2002 WR250 petcock to resolve this clearance issue:
PJ1 does not make the Kawasaki green anymore so I bought some grabber green for the areas I welded and ground on. I will tear down this winter when the snow comes and have it powder coated silver or black.
Posted: 11:09 am Aug 27 2010
by scheckaet
"found that I had to pull the motor to get the clutch side mounted"
I have the same issue.
I'm interested about that WR petcock, what's the deal with it? shorter? Does it have a reserve setting unlike the stock kx?
I went around the petcock clearance by molding it in using the heat gun, work good so far.
Would you get a pic of the chain guide? Do you have a rubber part in it or does the chain rub on the metal?
Posted: 12:01 pm Aug 27 2010
by frankenschwinn
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scheckaet wrote:"found that I had to pull the motor to get the clutch side mounted"
I have the same issue.
I'm interested about that WR petcock, what's the deal with it? shorter? Does it have a reserve setting unlike the stock kx?
I went around the petcock clearance by molding it in using the heat gun, work good so far.
Would you get a pic of the chain guide? Do you have a rubber part in it or does the chain rub on the metal?
Here is a pic of the WR petcock:

You can see that the outlet points to the rear horizontally rather than down vertically and it does have a reserve. I should have it today or Mon.
On the chain guide. The stocker has a rubber block insert but mine was worn through. I replaced it with a primary drive unit. It was just a few $$$ more than the ruber insert for the stocker and I wanted black
Stocker I have already discarded the ruber part:
Primary drive chain guide:
This is the ruber insert:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... Parts=true
This is the primary drive chain guide:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... lyId=24705
I had to use the stock spacers for the top block
Posted: 12:09 pm Aug 27 2010
by HRDROKN
Lookin good!
What mods did you have to do to get that kickstand to work?

Posted: 01:50 pm Aug 27 2010
by frankenschwinn
The bracket was too long so I set it in place and marked where the top hole should be. Drilled a hole cut the bracket. Found a bolt/bushing to replace the sub frame bolt and cut an 1" off of the stand. I need a button head bolt for the top bolt but have not found one yet.
Posted: 02:22 pm Aug 27 2010
by scheckaet
I want that same petcock, where did you get it? ebay?
That primary drive chain guide looks good, gonna have to order one myself, the stock is junk, can't even put a rubbing block on the bottom part

Posted: 02:26 pm Aug 27 2010
by frankenschwinn


scheckaet wrote:I want that same petcock, where did you get it? ebay?
That primary drive chain guide looks good, gonna have to order one myself, the stock is junk, can't even put a rubbing block on the bottom part

I had a guy I know in Austin order it for me. I am sure you could get it from bike bandit or something though. Or I can ask him to order another. You will have to pick it up at Cross Timbers or Stillwater 500 when I host the first annual Oklahoma Hybrid Rally.

Posted: 02:48 pm Aug 27 2010
by hockeyboysomers
I used a new 1999 KX250 kickstart lever. I used it full size. It's lighter, stronger and longer than stock. It might not work for someone on the short side, I don't know. I had to use a washer under the nut to take up some slack. I prefer it to the stock lever. I've also heard that if you use the shorty lever, you hit your foot on the footpeg. Good luck!
Posted: 05:07 pm Aug 31 2010
by frankenschwinn
Th KX250 kicker is too long to fit on my hybrid. The 125 kicker works nicely though. I have my motor rotated up and back so the kicker actually touches the frame but nothing to worry about.
Nice job.
Posted: 05:18 am Sep 09 2010
by Bouillion
Well done!
Posted: 12:07 pm Oct 15 2010
by 500 HORS
Please confirm, but it looks like you used the KX throttle cable and the KDX Keihin carb - is that correct?
thx.
Posted: 12:30 pm Oct 15 2010
by HRDROKN


500 HORS wrote:Please confirm, but it looks like you used the KX throttle cable and the KDX Keihin carb - is that correct?
thx.
Not sure what franken.... did, but this is what I found.
I ordered a motion pro throttle cable for a 99 KX125 and it was exactly like my 03 KDX cable and fit perfectly with the KX throttle. Ordered it from
motosport.com for $17.

Posted: 11:35 am Oct 16 2010
by frankenschwinn


500 HORS wrote:Please confirm, but it looks like you used the KX throttle cable and the KDX Keihin carb - is that correct?
thx.
I used the KDX Throttle housing/tube/cable and carb. It all fit like a glove