KDXRIDER.NET

yep, that's the wrench, though it costs more from motionpro

http://www.amazon.com/MOTION-PRO-Torque ... 705&sr=8-1

nevermind: the shipping evens it out.

I don't recall there is a flat on that shaft...or not. Don't think so. Nothing like that shows up in the parts diagrams.

Grease? Sure. Great big handsful of it!!

Well...maybe 'some'.......

I figured the teeth would be tougher than they are..which is why I haven't bothered yet to block any of the shafts against movement when I take that nut off.

Guess I've been lucky so far.

I've got my KIPS apart right now also (waiting on some gaskets and what not to come in the mail). How do you ensure that the sub valves are timed correctly? They don't appear to be marked like the main shaft is. I would hate to put those darn things in backwards by mistake! Also, what is the best back-yard mechanic method for removing carbon and goop? That was a heck of a time-consuming mess getting the KIPS all cleaned up!

I've used wd 40 to soak then carb or brake cleaner.
When the engine is removed (or at low rpm), the sub-valves should be closed and the main should be lowered. There should be some marking on the gears to line them up properly (once you removed the spoo and gunk, you should see them. Ask away if you're not sure cuz I'm not the best to explain things like that

When the engine is removed.... the sub-valves should be closed and the main should be lowered.

Th'ar 'ya go!

The subport drums are marked, as are the rods that move them. Not the easiest to see..but the marks are there.

It wouldn't matter if there were NO marks as you can observe the whole shebang with the cylinder on the bench.

You 'ensure' the drums are timed correctly by watching their movement/placement as you manually activate the KIPS. Both drums are alike relatively (meaning the same...but opposite) at both the closed and open positions. If you see a bit more of one edge of one drum than you do the other, say, in the 'closed' position..you're one tooth off somewheres.

The teeth of the drum and its corresponding rod are a bit notched on the top..something you can see looking at them from the top (head surface). That without the supporting collars in place, 'natch.

The KIPS won't likely manually activate too well with those collars out because the drums will bind with no guide at the top, but you can see the matching marks to be meshed before you put the collars in.

Howzzat?

Good enough.