KDXRIDER.NET

Add about 40lbs. to it then!

A lot of people here have spent the time to lead you to a solution. What have you done in response? Have you checked the sag? The fork spring rate/preload, ride height? A KLX (suuuueeee) will only turn and handle better than your bike if your bike is not setup properly or you have a blown shock, IMHO. Al Bundy could dust a KLX with his Dodge Dart.

sag is set, fork spring's are set.

I'm 200 pounds with gear on, i'm looking for recommendations on what other similar riders have done to their suspension to get it to handle nicely. Shock clickers, fork clickers, valves, fork oil height etc.

12-14 depending on terrain

Isn't that a bit high? I used 12 in rocky rides (doesn't happen very often) and 10 - 11 on dirt / mud...

I tend to run 13 both ends with HD tubes, so equivalent of 14 + with stock tubes and it works for me in really rough hard-pack stuff, and is OK for fireroad work too.

Cleoent, it might be your handlebar positioning too; you might want to experiment with getting further forward on the bike into turns, and bar position affects your ability to do so.

I've never found a sag, clicker, or fork height setting on the Internet that worked for me.
I've always had to ride, adjust, and ride some more.

Of course, before I found this site and others, I was blissfully ignorant of such things and just rode.

I'm not sure I'm better off today!

scheckaet wrote:

12-14 depending on terrain

Isn't that a bit high? I used 12 in rocky rides (doesn't happen very often) and 10 - 11 on dirt / mud...

Nope, 12-14 is fine for rocky terrain, I'd go 12ish in muddy conditions. 10 is too low for me, I've got one of those 19" MX setups and I don't like changing tubes :)

HD tube will be on next time I get a flat though!

12 seems too high for me in mud, but I'm slow and lightweight
Haven't had any flat in awhile (and I just jinxed myself there ) but we don't have much rock/cactus and such where I usually ride

in the mud i'll go down to 10 sometimes, usually 12, i really dont like the idea of flats

I run slime in both tires, I'm hoping it prevents any flats on the trail

KarlP wrote:I've
Of course, before I found this site and others, I was blissfully ignorant of such things and just rode.

This sounds like me. I can do all of this stuff ( I even put a kx front end on my bike because I got bored this winter and you all said it was so much better) but I am not much of a tuner. I just ride and have fun and fix things as needed.

took my bike to a local suspension pro. The sag was set properly what he did was turn compression on the front as hard as it gets, same with the rear and backed the rebound almost all the way out of the rear. We'll see i imagine

He's the PRO!

Well, that'll be different....maybe right on.
Gonna carry a screwdriver with you when you go test?

I could carry a screw driver, but my guess is i would mess things up, is there a place online where it explains what symtoms of too much compression/to little is?

What too much rebound/not enough feels like???

Right now all i coudl tell him is my front doesn't grip.

I think you're barking up the wrong tree. I assume you ride at Hollister since you are based in SJ?
A full hard compression setting is likely going to make the front end more skittish in turns because it will not follow the rough and slippery Hollister surfaces as well. If anything, you may be backing off that adjustment. Don't sweat experimenting with the compression damping, set it to center and if it feels too harsh on bumps click it out 2 (CCW) at a time, if it feels to soft click it in 2 at a time until you get the best setting).

Here's something to consider; the KLX300 uses either 37 or 38 fork spring rate depending on the year model, your buddy's bike would have 38's. You say you are using 40's in your KDX. Now, the KLX is about 25 lbs heavier than your bike AND it has softer springs. If the KLX has the stock springs in and turns/handles better, I'd say your 40's are too stiff for your riding style. The front end needs to drop in turns, and I bet it can't do that enough given your speed and body positioning profile. (Early on, I was thinking that unless you are a very experienced rider, even at 200lbs/full gear the 40's may be on the stiff side).

Check with your buddy to find out if his bike has the stock springs, if so, you know what to do!

Go on, turn your clicker screws, you can't hurt anything but yourself.

When testing, pick a small loop and ride around it for a while. You need to go at least 10 minutes or so to get the suspension warmed up. If you don't like how it is feeling or turning, turn some clickers, take a few more loops.
Write everything down so you can go back to what it was.
Be cautious after each change, the bike may behave in an unexpected manner and toss you.

If you search you will find that there is a ton of information out here about what does what. Enough to make your head hurt.

I think it also help to have another faster rider in front of you to set the same pace every loop. What might feel good at a given speed might not be so good when going faster. even better is someone videotaping you on the same section.

just as another FYI, i pulled the valves today and took out 2 shims as been recommended here. It's been 90+ the past two days too hot for me to go out and ride, i might try and sneak in a ride tomorrow afternoon

My friend's klx that i rode is also stored in my garage, the suspension feels a lot stiffer than mine was set to, now after the changes the guy made they feel closer with the klx being stiffer. I imagine the klx has more weight, and has different geometry so it should be stiffer, just making a comparison is all :D

Is it tomorrow afternoon, yet?

Not generally a good plan to change too many things at once. IF your bike handles WORSE at this point, what is it? Clickers front? Shock rebound? Compression? Stack change?

Of course, if it's BETTER the same applies..which thing did it? Knowing that would lead you to more experimentation with THAT aspect of your suspension setup.

What is your fork spring preload?