KDXRIDER.NET

R in the BR means resistor. If your manual doesn't call for a resistor plug then it doesn't matter which one you get. If you run close to other bikes, I would buy the resistor plug though. You might have some pissed off riders with you when their bikes start cutting out.

Is kerosene pretty safe to use on everything that I want to clean up on the bike? I really want to get everything wiped down and degreased and get rid of all my sludge.

Once I drain my tank should I rinse it out with some kerosene? Is the exhaust safe to clean with kerosene?

I noticed that the wiring on my bike has been kind of hacked up since the regulator has been cut and I can't find the wires that go to the headlight or taillight. I looked on the microfiche but I don't see a wire harness. I have the wiring diagram but I need the actual wires to be there. Any ideas?

kdxquebec:
There is no Porsche in the photos! That's a Toyota!

jeopardy98 wrote:Is kerosene pretty safe to use on everything that I want to clean up on the bike? I really want to get everything wiped down and degreased and get rid of all my sludge.

Once I drain my tank should I rinse it out with some kerosene? Is the exhaust safe to clean with kerosene? . . .

You should be able to use kerosene, contact cleaner, carb cleaner for most of the metal things. Kerosene is great to soak things in like your chain or engine parts, contact cleaner to finish gasket/mating surfaces. Keep all of these away from rubber/polymer type stuff (besides the obvious fuel lines and such). That's how I do it anyway.

Assuming "tank" is the gas tank - why not just use straight gas? It's actually a better solvent than kerosene and that's what's in there any 'ole ways. Let it set for a little, slosh it around a little, then dispose of in accordance with any and all regulatory compliance agencies

Cturbo wrote:kdxquebec:
There is no Porsche in the photos! That's a Toyota!

Yes, you are correct. I had to go back and look for what you were talking about.

Jeb wrote:

jeopardy98 wrote:Is kerosene pretty safe to use on everything that I want to clean up on the bike? I really want to get everything wiped down and degreased and get rid of all my sludge.

Once I drain my tank should I rinse it out with some kerosene? Is the exhaust safe to clean with kerosene? . . .

You should be able to use kerosene, contact cleaner, carb cleaner for most of the metal things. Kerosene is great to soak things in like your chain or engine parts, contact cleaner to finish gasket/mating surfaces. Keep all of these away from rubber/polymer type stuff (besides the obvious fuel lines and such). That's how I do it anyway.

Assuming "tank" is the gas tank - why not just use straight gas? It's actually a better solvent than kerosene and that's what's in there any 'ole ways. Let it set for a little, slosh it around a little, then dispose of in accordance with any and all regulatory compliance agencies

Awesome, thanks for the response. I've heard that oven cleaner is good for the exhaust. Is this true? Do I soak it down and then let it get good an hot by running it? I really would rather clean it up while it is off the bike. I also picked up some repacking material because I can see the splooge coming out the back of the silencer.

jeopardy98 wrote:The manual calls for a B9ES plug so I don't know what the BR is all about.

Yeah I know what the manual calls for

It aint right, it run ok but it'll end up fouling somewhere down the line. But run whatever you want, I'm done here....

I wasn't being a smart ass. I've seen countless people say to consult the manual and I thought I was doing the right thing by doing that. I meant no harm and the response you quoted was in reference to the question about a BR*ES vs. B*ES, not about your suggesting I run the 8. I actually changed my order to be two B8ES's as soon as I read your response so I did appreciate the information.

I find it hard to believe that some people get bent out of shape so easily. Hopefully the rest of the members here will still be willing to help me through this project.

Just read his sig line and all will become clear....

ahh, seems I'm quite the dolt.

So back on track. What's the best way to clean the inside of the pipe and silencer?

Use the oven cleaner but don't heat it by running the engine. Heating is a good idea but it is better to use a torch. I didn't use heat on mine, that's why it still have carbon in it.

A torch, see, I hadn't thought about that. I'll be getting some more work done on her this Sunday so I'll update you all as the questions come to me.

Definitely don't run the engine w/ a pipe that still has oven cleaner in it. A piped 2-stroke will suck back in from the pipe and you don't want to oven-clean your running cylinder.

Update:

I checked the engine for compression before I pulled the top end apart today and got a solid 140. I pulled the head and cylinder and ran into some problems but overall a pretty successful day. MOST things looked to be in GREAT shape so I think the guy may have actually rebuilt the top end like he claimed. The piston had very little carbon on the top and the cylinder nor piston appeared to have any noticeable scoring.

I also pulled the rear wheel and started to replace the rear shock with the one I got off of ebay but I ran out of time.

So on to the pictures...

Head



Cylinder before removing




This next set is a three part series entitled "What's Wrong With These Pictures?"

Part 1:



Part 2:



Part 3:



and here she is as she sits waiting for my next chance to do some more:




So as you should have figured out from the pictures both of my exhaust valves are broken. One much worse then the other. I'm brand new to all of this but from what I have read that would mean that my KIPS wasn't even operating at all. Is that correct?

Overalli, it was a good day. I learned a bit more about my bike and got a few steps closer to having her back together.

Yep, now you know what everyone is talking about with the early engine power valve problem.

This is why "de-carbon" means a lot. This type of P/V system should be taken a part and cleaned regularly (in the old days that was called a tune up on a 2 stroke and should be done at least every season)

Ron

You got it... toast!

At least the idler gear wasn't broken. So I should just be able to replace the two valves and clean all the rest, right? Is there any ill effects I should be looking for in the top end as a result of the broken valves?

Also, I don't think my main rod even has an oil seal on it so that might be part of why I had all that gunk on my right engine case.

You get it fixed... I don't think you will have any issues with it again as long as you run good oil in it and watch it.

This is a nice teardown!



Why did you removed this? What was your method?

What do you mean? Are you talking about the rubber boot or the nut itself? I removed the nut by holding the shaft in with one hand and then I set the wrench close to the frame so that I could pull the bike towards me as I pushed on the wrench. It worked like a charm. If you are talking about the rubber boot then I just popped it off.

I am talking about the nut. This is one of the most critical nut on your bike.

The shaft needs to be supported with a visegrip when you remove the nut. (left hand threads)You can broke parts inside the right side cover if not.