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Posted: **07:54 pm Jan 12 2008**

Well i got the needle changed from stock ( was on 2nd clip from bottom) to CGK (2nd from top). Bike has way more get go. i don't just mean the kind you say..that's nice, i'm talking the kind that makes your eyes open real big and scream out yeeeee-ha lol Thanks m0rie , couldn't have done it without your help man. My throttle response is frightening right now, it kinda feels like there is no pause in any of the throttle position. I let my buddy ride my bike last week, he came over today and i said yeah you can take it for a spin. I watched him take off in 1st , shift to 2nd pop the wheel up and ride right into a fence( had to make a choice right or left) I about pissed my pants, he was like i'm so sorry about the bike,wtf did you do to it man? When i could finally stop laughing i told him it's np the bike did better than you.
If opening the air screw out a real lot makes every part of the throttle run better, does that mean i need to lean out the needle? I have a 152 main now, but still have the 45 pilot. I'm gonna change it to a 42 tomorrow.
Also, my throttle cable seems weird to me. The slightest touch to it and it the throttle goes up, is that normal? seems sloppy going into the twist.
Last but not least. My clutch seems weird. I have the adjuster on the lever all the way in and that's not enough?? Almost like theres too much slack or something. I thought if the clutch is going bad it gets adjusted out?

Posted: **02:10 pm Jan 14 2008**

Re: 'If opening the air screw out a real lot makes every part of the throttle run better, does that mean i need to lean out the needle?'

...m0rie likely:

m0rie wrote:Look into getting a CGK needle and run it in the #2 clip to start with along with a 152 main and a 42 pilot.

Re: 'The slightest touch to it and it the throttle goes up, is that normal? seems sloppy going into the twist.'

???

The slightest 'touch' meaning...it doesn't take much effort to twist?...or it throttles up at the slightest twist?

You do have freeplay in the movement, right? Gotta have that. Otherwise you will be gettin' gassed when you don't at all want any sort of that...like when you reach for the brake lever! That adjustment is at the throttle housing. Make the cable 'shorter'.

Not sure I understand the clutch part correctly.

If your clutch cable is 'all the way in' (as short as possible), that is not 'average' anyway. It might be 'normal' if you have healthy, 'extra' heavy duty fiber plates. The thicker the pack (of plates) the shorter the cable needs to be. Also, there are shims used under the actuator to 'adjust' for clutch pack wear. Maybe you have too much of that (too thick, too many...).

But, you say 'Almost like there's too much slack...' If there IS too much slack, your cable needs to get 'longer', not shorter.

Hence...I understand you to be saying opposite things.

The clutch adjustment is 'out' or 'longer' as the assembly wears, that is true.

The lever (the part that attaches to the lower clutch cable end) should move through a 90º angle, measured at the joint of the lever and the cable. That's the position in which you get the most amount of actuator movement..the most amount of clutch pack 'release'.

Posted: **11:08 pm Jan 14 2008**

canyncarvr wrote:Re: 'If opening the air screw out a real lot makes every part of the throttle run better, does that mean i need to lean out the needle?'

...m0rie likely:

m0rie wrote:Look into getting a CGK needle and run it in the #2 clip to start with along with a 152 main and a 42 pilot.

Re: 'The slightest touch to it and it the throttle goes up, is that normal? seems sloppy going into the twist.'

???

The slightest 'touch' meaning...it doesn't take much effort to twist?...or it throttles up at the slightest twist? No, i mean just touching the cable anywhere it crosses the bar and goes down the rail. Slightest touch and it raises the throttle.

You do have freeplay in the movement, right? Gotta have that. Otherwise you will be gettin' gassed when you don't at all want any sort of that...like when you reach for the brake lever! That adjustment is at the throttle housing. Make the cable 'shorter'.

Not sure I understand the clutch part correctly.

If your clutch cable is 'all the way in' (as short as possible), that is not 'average' anyway. It might be 'normal' if you have healthy, 'extra' heavy duty fiber plates. The thicker the pack (of plates) the shorter the cable needs to be. Also, there are shims used under the actuator to 'adjust' for clutch pack wear. Maybe you have too much of that (too thick, too many...). The adjuster on the lever is adjusted all the way in and the clutch is just barely grabbing on the outside(almost like my clutch is being held in) Making the adjuster come out makes it worse. so i need to go in more, but there isn't any left?

But, you say 'Almost like there's too much slack...' If there IS too much slack, your cable needs to get 'longer', not shorter.

Hence...I understand you to be saying opposite things.

The clutch adjustment is 'out' or 'longer' as the assembly wears, that is true.

The lever (the part that attaches to the lower clutch cable end) should move through a 90º angle, measured at the joint of the lever and the cable. That's the position in which you get the most amount of actuator movement..the most amount of clutch pack 'release'.

Posted: **12:02 pm Jan 15 2008**

The slightest 'touch' meaning...it doesn't take much effort to twist?...or it throttles up at the slightest twist? No, i mean just touching the cable anywhere it crosses the bar and goes down the rail. Slightest touch and it raises the throttle.'

Then you need to adjust the throttle cable to HAVE freeplay. A 'touch' where the cable crosses the bar should have no effect on the throttle.

That's a bad accident waiting to happen. FIX it by making the cable 'shorter'...adjust at the throttle housing..screw the thing IN. You should be able to twist the throttle tube 'some' (say, a 1/4" movement measured at the grip flange) and have NO cable movement.

As long as a full twist of the throttle fully raises the slide, you're good. Check THAT by twisting the throttle to its stop, THEN try to lift the slid further at the carb cap. You should not be able to do that.

Not sure I understand the clutch part correctly.

Without you saying what it is you have a question about, I can only repeat what was already said..and that isn't effective.

Try on summa this blather for size........

A 'shorter' cable (example: adjustment at the lever screwed IN) will give you more slack. A 'longer' cable will give you less. You should have 'some' freeplay at the lever. That ensures the pressure on the clutchpack is completely released..off...when you release the handle. THAT ensures you will have the maximum amount of 'stick' you can get. A TOO 'long' cable will put pressure on the springs all the time..effectively 'slipping' your clutch all the time.

That burns things up.

Too much freeplay and you will not be able to disengage the tranny from the engine when the handle is pulled. That means clunky shifts, hard starts when in gear (they're hard anyway on the KDX), inability to find neutral when you want it when the engine is running.

For the 90º part...draw a picture. Make a 90º angled line.. |_ ..on a piece of paper. That angle represents the orientation of the bottom clutch cable to the lever on the actuating rod. Consider the clutch actuating lever (the piece at the top of the cover on the RH side of the engine) to sit slightly to the LEFT |_ of the line when the clutch handle is NOT pulled..and slightly to the RIGHT |/_ of the line when the clutch handle IS pulled.

That orientation will translate into the maximum rotation (movement) of the lever that goes into the RH engine case. This 'maximum' rotation is what gives you the most desireable clutch action..full release of the clutchpack when the handle is pulled, maximum release of THE CLUTCH SPRINGS when the clutch handle is released.

You CAN have a 'correct' amount of freeplay in BOTH the clutch and throttle actuators and STILL have problems. That's when you need to find out what's broken/bad/wrong/goobered....and something is!

How's that?

btw....I used 'handle' meaning the clutch lever on your handlebar. That to differentiate between it and the 'lever' at the other end of the cable that is part of the actuating rod that goes INto the case.

Posted: **06:01 pm Jan 15 2008**

I was trying to pull the rubber piece off the adjuster on the throttle handle and couldn't. I went to inspecting and noticed the brake master was pushing up on the throttle cable, and adjusted. I then went and adjusted it in on the carb as suggested.
I took it for a ride, noticed some improvement but still not there. Then i noticed the adjuster on the throttle was all the way out, so i went to go adjusting it in. My cell phone rang and i hastily gave it a last turn just as it was sucking up the lock nut and sa-prise you just broke your throttle. The threaded area where the adjuster goes in snapped off.
I then moved on to the clutch. I noticed the lever was down more than my throttle. I got it up to where i felt comfortable and tightened. Then the bike wont stay running. I figured out that i then had to adjust thew clutch out(moving the lever up an inch sucked up the play)
I jimmy rigged my throttle and took it for a spin, I thought my bike was fast yesterday... it got way better today. This whole time my clutch was being pulled in and the throttle was being pulled in and causing me to lose throttle distance. She rips now.
I have one question. I have an extra throttle handle but the twisty plastic part is no good. Can i just switch out the insides and use the casing?

Posted: **06:43 pm Jan 15 2008**

This whole time my clutch was being pulled in and the throttle was being pulled in and causing me to lose throttle distance. She rips now.

Isn't THAT a cool sitcheation!!!

Re: 'I have an extra throttle handle but the twisty plastic part is no good. Can i just switch out the insides and use the casing?

If I catch the drift of that..yes.

Now...I don't know what a throttle 'handle' is..and I got a purty good guess what the twisty part is.

I'm somewhat skeered of anyone that would break that throttle adjuster. That should be quite difficult to do.

Oh, you heard the current cell phone ads? Maybe not nationwide..but they're running out here:

LET IT RING!!!

Damn cell phones...........

Posted: **08:00 pm Jan 15 2008**

Sorry to sound stupid, been lurking here, would by 99 220 be an H or an E?

Posted: **08:14 pm Jan 15 2008**

It's an H model.

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