KDXRIDER.NET

You are in a good position to experiment beins you have another pair. It would be good if you had some other sized shims so you could build the mid-valve. Take it through the Reiter torture test and make changes, you'll learn a lot.

Sounds good. I need to tear into my 2001's, hopefully they will be setup closer to what you found in yours.

canyncarvr wrote:To digress some...

It needs to be a stone particularly used for saw chains? Not just an abrasive wheel..or cut-off disk?

No - Not Really - Thought process - When I read the post and what he had gone through I thought to myself why not grab a 7/32 dia stone for sharping chain saws and save yourself some trouble in changing and grinding down drill bits. The chain saw sharpening stones come in a correct size (well even one size on either side of what he ended up drilling with) and with a peanut grinder you can just touch the staked area a few times removing the stake.

I thought it would be easier to perform the free hand grinding (rather than drilling) and if you did touch the threaded area material - it would be smoothed instead of raised (burred) - allowing (in my mind - at least) easier removal.

I think you are fine removing a 2 of the 24s from the BV.

I would question going less than 3 of the 27s on the mid valve. Just flows too much oil in this area and shim deflection will "kill" the shim in short order. I'm thinking the mid-valve is going to be close anywho.

Suspension valving my mail is about as productive as jetting by mail.

Email, even.

Some things are obvious (like 10-24s being too much for any sort of woods riding), most others are more fuzzy.

What you know now (6-24s is probably too many...the compression stack in the cart is pretty stiff) gives you something to mess with.

If you don't have a pile of shims to substitute, the question is moot, is it not?

You have to start with something. Ditch a couple of the 24s on the BV and put it back together.

You're an EXspurt now...so making changes next time will be eaiser!!

I'm just ladling out some positive reinforcement! You're good! Try 'em...see what's up!!

**edit**

Crappers....posted this having only read to the bottom of page one...again.

Hey Inda...how about a page selector at the BOTTOM of the thread page?

I certainly feel a lot more informed after completing the rebuild. In fact how the forks work almost makes sense:) If you don't want to mess with your good forks, get a set of trashed forks from somewhere for cheap and take them apart, definetly worth the learning experience.

Given how nasty my ebay 1997's were, I second the recommendation of always tearing down any unknown forks before running them. These forks would have been non-functional without a rebuild. I would guess that 50% of the rebuild time was spent cleaning with simple green and brake cleaner.

Now that I have the Tusk seal driver and oil level tool I can't wait to tear apart my other set and tinker with the valving. I had them professionally rebuilt when I got them, so they should be more enjoyable to tear apart since they hopefully won't be too dirty.