KDXRIDER.NET

As in American house current...

170 volts pk-pk is 120 volts RMS (that's what we run too) Those silly Canadian have indoor plumbin too. They need it cuz when yer stuck in the hoose fer like 12 weeks ay ya really hafta drink lots of Molsons and runnin outside to pee could be cold ay, and ya could get et by a polar bear or Yukon woman.

Now for something completey different:
Sears had a decent 12v impact.

Whatever number they gots, I don't think it's 12!

...do they make them in three phase?

That spec CAN'T be right. 30wpm? WHACK one thousand one one thousand two WHACK one thousand one one thousand two WHACK.

Well, I guess that WOULD be 20wpm

Maybe its WHACK

I like yukon womans.

Hm I have an old friend who own an air impact. Maybe it is the time to call him.

" Hey frank? How do you do? eh . "

Do you guys replace the fork dust seals also when you install new the seals?

Yes.

But replacing seals for me has not been frequent.

Only once in my OEM forks..and that was after about five years. And THEN just because. The oil seals weren't leaking..dribbling or weeping at all.

Hi. I worked on the forks after the work today. I un- screwed the 14mm bolt at the bottom of the fork with a correct socket. I used a homemade fork tool to hold. Everything went good.

So now the fork are in parts. I cleaned everything with brake cleaner .

But I did not cleaned and worked on the bottom valve.

Do the bottom valve need some attention? Should I clean them with brake cleaner? Also Should I unscrew the bolt on the top of the spring?

What should I do with the bottom valves?

You are familiar with the basic idea of valving, shims stacks and such?

If your forks are stock, they probably have a good number of 24mm shims in the compression stack in the base valve. Grump99 is familiar with that configuration, so you could ask him, but there is something like eight (?) of them. Maybe it's six? I don't recall, and I didn't search for the number.

The number isn't important, as I recall the general consent to be 'Remove all but FOUR of the 24s'.

It would be good to give grump a PM about that.

You will need to file/grind off the staked end to get the nut off without damaging something. Be careful when it comes to taking the stack apart. It is VERY easy to misplace shims ..they tend to stick together. Put the nut back on with a touch of thread locker..keep it OFF everything but the threads.

Watch the brake cleaner. Don't know what brand you are using, but read the label. It likely says to keep it OFF rubber stuff. ..like...seals?

How's that?

Good luck.

Be careful putting the base valve back in. You need pressure on the cartridge to screw the valve in, but DON'T put that pressure on until you get the threads lined up. It is easy to strip those threads. Don't.

With my stock forks, there were 8 shims in the compression assembly, all the same size. They were not 24 mm, more like 10-12 mm in diameter. I removed 2 of them and the forks became much less harsh over bumps. I liked the change, but it is completely reversible if desired.

Good luck!

Tony

10-12mm?

If those covered the piston, you have a very low-flow piston.

If they DON'T cover the piston, what are they doing there?

My bad. I measured one of the shims that I took out. 18 mm outer diameter, 10 mm inner diameter. I don't remember if they covered the piston (too long ago).

Phil isn't likely to find any shims in his base valve as he has damper rod forks, not cartridge valves.

Thanks for your advices. I am not familiar with valving...not familiar with forks also Ok pretty sure I will keep the valves like they are ... They work fine for me.

The bushings seems to be in good condition but I will confirm they are ok before put the forks together.

C.c your advices will really help me during the final assembly.

Yes maurie. I was pretty sure the valves was not like the 95-2006 kdx200-220.

Well, there goes another perfect theory mugged by a gang of facts!

Well, break out your drill and..........

I found a little chip on one bushing (the ones just under the seals). I will replace them.

Then I will be ready to close them.

I took some pics.

http://s82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/kdxquebec/forks/

I don't know that both of your bushings were teflon coated or not. I've only seen teflon coated bushings. The 'thinner (less wide) of the two is showing the NON-slip part, right?

Yours look pretty darn good. Well..compared to mine!

Certainly there's no better time to replace them than now!

There is a correct and an INcorrect way to orient the gaps. If you aren't sure, better check. My remembery isn't too good...I don't think you want to line the up. It's something like 120º out, neither gap facing directly forward or backward?

I don't know what's right, but I DO know there is a right/wrong.

A 'quick' look at ten pages of a googled 'install motorcycle fork bushings' didn't tell me anything.

Sorry...


What are you using for a seal driver?

canyncarvr wrote:I don't know that both of your bushings were teflon coated or not. I've only seen teflon coated bushings. The 'thinner (less wide) of the two is showing the NON-slip part, right?



I don't know what's right, but I DO know there is a right/wrong.




What are you using for a seal driver?

====Yes the 2 bushings are teflon (or something else) coated, and the less wide is the non-slip part.

====Ok I will try to find the exact way to install them.thanks

====Seal diver? Hmm This is the next step in my project. as Maurie said,I will try to find a pcv tube or anything else to press them. If I do not find anything I will go to my local bike shop to get them fit. Or maybe i will buy a $eal diver

Hi

The fork job is almost done. I am on the last step. SEAL INSTALATION

Do you have some tips to press the seals?

Is it a good idea to put some grease or oil on the seal? (in and out)

Or should install them DRY ?

thanks