KDXRIDER.NET

This is great, thanks!!

Chuck78 wrote: 09:30 pm Jun 19 2024 Clutch cable upgrade:
Per Art Simmoneau, a 2007 CRF250 clutch cable OEM Honda is an upgrade over the stock KDX clutch cable, and has a metal elbow with a teflon liner sleeve in it on the engine case side.
I've picked up a Motion Pro T3 SlideLight version for 2007 CRF250X models, which is their high end premium cable offering with a smoother sliding action. An even better upgrade.

Chuck, do you know if the CRF250 cable is compatible with E-series bikes as well? I'm finding conflicting information on some clutch cables listed as compatible with all KDX200/220 and some that exclude the E-series bike years. Thanks.

If a Honda CRF250X cable is compatible with a KDX200H, I would imagine it could be made to work on the E-Series as well, but I don't know for a fact. If you can find a lot of listings that show 89-06 KDX200 as compatibility, then it probably will.
The stock Honda cable is a decent upgrade from the kdx, but the premium more expensive Motion Pro T3 Slidelight version is definitely very very much nicer than any of them.

Chuck78 wrote: 05:52 pm Feb 20 2025 If a Honda CRF250X cable is compatible with a KDX200H, I would imagine it could be made to work on the E-Series as well, but I don't know for a fact. If you can find a lot of listings that show 89-06 KDX200 as compatibility, then it probably will.
The stock Honda cable is a decent upgrade from the kdx, but the premium more expensive Motion Pro T3 Slidelight version is definitely very very much nicer than any of them.

I did opt to splurge the ~$50 for the MPT3. Looking forward to getting it on the bike. Thanks for the tip!

Chuck78 wrote: 09:32 pm Jun 19 2024 Clutch Friction Disc upgrade:
Jeff Fredette and others have found that using Honda XR400R/CBR900RR/late XR250R clutch friction discs fit the KDX clutch basket exactly the same as OEM, but have 30%-40% more friction material surface area. Jeff Fredette uses the Made In Japan Vesrah brand VC-173 kits (contains 6 discs, he sells as a set of 7 to re-use the KDX clutch judder spring assembly, or he will sell a set of 8 if you are doing away with the clutch judder spring and running an extra clutch plate. The VC-175 Vesrah kit comes with 7 friction discs. The discs are the same when bought through Vesrah (Honda part numbers are slightly different for the two applications early XR250 / XR350R vs late XR250R/all XR400R), but the Vesrah individual friction disc part numbers are identical and have more surface area.

Chuck what am I not understanding about 7 vs 8 friction discs? My 220 has 7 friction discs in the long groove and one in the top, short groove for a total of 8. As far as I know the judder spring assembly is still in place.

I got the vc-175 kit with 7 discs but now am one short.

Maybe my numbers are off, my memory is foggy on that right now, ,& I don't have time to go dig through my parts and stack up a spare clutch basket to look, but if you remove the judder spring, you have to substitute in an extra clutch disc. Most people will say just leave it in, but to get rid of that parasitic drag and neutral especially when the clutches and engine are hot, I believe removing it and swapping in an extra disc will get rid of that. Maybe the last disc has to be an oem KDX disc however? Like I said, the details are not at the top of my cluttered brain right now! I'll be revisiting this here in the next month or two when I split the cases on a '99 220.

Chuck78 wrote: 07:04 pm Feb 25 2025 Maybe my numbers are off, my memory is foggy on that right now, ,& I don't have time to go dig through my parts and stack up a spare clutch basket to look, but if you remove the judder spring, you have to substitute in an extra clutch disc. Most people will say just leave it in, but to get rid of that parasitic drag and neutral especially when the clutches and engine are hot, I believe removing it and swapping in an extra disc will get rid of that. Maybe the last disc has to be an oem KDX disc however? Like I said, the details are not at the top of my cluttered brain right now! I'll be revisiting this here in the next month or two when I split the cases on a '99 220.

Looking at the 220 clutch again today vs my 200E series clutch, the judder spring fits inside the ID of the first friction disc. So you can only use 7 new, wider (smaller ID) friction discs plus 1 original, thinner (larger ID) disc. The judder spring sits inside of that original style disc, whereas if you use the new disc in that first position, the judder spring sits on top of it and screws up operation (I assume).

Sorry I misunderstood your correctly posted information.

Apparently a 2003 Husqvarna 450 aluminum shifter pedal fits the KDX shifter splines as well, for another potential weight saving shifter swap. It's slightly longer as well, which will help those with larger boots.

I believe another guy found that an older aluminum YZ shifter also fits with the same spline size

Chuck78 wrote: 07:39 pm Jun 19 2024 1994-1998 KX250 kick start lever splined boss/knuckle + the "shorty" 1994-1998 KX125 (1992-2000's KX125??? & various KX100???) kicker lever (or the longer '94-'98 KX250 aluminum lever also) is an excellent upgrade to get a closed knuckle sealed kicker pivot design with a lightweight aluminum kicker lever.
The splines are slightly narrower, requiring a custom ground to fit washer/spacer size for proper torquing onto the KDX kicker shaft splines, or else get a larger smooth faced flanged hex nut of this size and counterbore the first 1.0mm or less of threads out so that it gives a step to fit over the remaining exposed splines.

Chuck,
I got a shorty 125 lever about a year ago and have been looking for the correct 94-98 boss PN 13061-1491 with no luck. What are my other options? At this point I'd just like to get the thing onto the bike and could care less if it's an open or closed knuckle.

brademan76 wrote: 01:56 pm Feb 15 2026

Chuck78 wrote: 07:39 pm Jun 19 2024 1994-1998 KX250 kick start lever splined boss/knuckle + the "shorty" 1994-1998 KX125 (1992-2000's KX125??? & various KX100???) kicker lever (or the longer '94-'98 KX250 aluminum lever also) is an excellent upgrade to get a closed knuckle sealed kicker pivot design with a lightweight aluminum kicker lever.
The splines are slightly narrower, requiring a custom ground to fit washer/spacer size for proper torquing onto the KDX kicker shaft splines, or else get a larger smooth faced flanged hex nut of this size and counterbore the first 1.0mm or less of threads out so that it gives a step to fit over the remaining exposed splines.

Chuck,
I got a shorty 125 lever about a year ago and have been looking for the correct 94-98 boss PN 13061-1491 with no luck. What are my other options? At this point I'd just like to get the thing onto the bike and could care less if it's an open or closed knuckle.

Did you consider the KX250F kicker mod? Much lighter than the steel kicker setup. I did that mod and loved it. Here is the thread discussing it: KX250F Kickstarter on H-Series?

brademan76 wrote: 01:56 pm Feb 15 2026 I got a shorty 125 lever about a year ago and have been looking for the correct 94-98 boss PN 13061-1491 with no luck. What are my other options? At this point I'd just like to get the thing onto the bike and could care less if it's an open or closed knuckle.

In my case, I ended up just buying a complete KX250 kicker lever to get the splined boss portion, but I had also bought the 94-98 250 splined Boss part brand new from Kawasaki at one point for another shorty lever that I had made up.

EDIT - also on another note, the KX250 '94-'98 lever which I'd bought primarily as a donor for a used 250 boss to mate to the second 125 kicker that I'd bought, I've actually been running complete as a full 250 lever/boss for years now... I'd intended to just try it out for a bit before swapping the 125 lever on the 250 splined boss / knuckle, but it worked quite well as is, far better than the goofy awkward wear-prone heavy steel hockey stick KDX kicker, that I haven't ever went back to the 125 lever on 250 splines...
I'd only gone this route "temporarily" after an oversight and mishap on my part of not using thread locker on the retaining nut caused the nut to back out and for me to lose my original 125 kicker lever combo on the trail. Luckily I was able to backtrack and find it, but the nut was long gone. It was at the end of our ride for the day anyhow and not far from the trailhead, so I just packed it up, and decided to try the full length 250 kicker and splines for a little while, and that was probably three or four years ago. Both are a very significant upgrade over the stock KDX kicker, as well as the KX250F version.

I browsed the 250 levers on eBay just recently, and saw several for cheap which had significant gouges where the pad is cast into the 250 lever where it contacts the OEM foot peg area intended as for a resting stop for the lever.

I know that there are several KX250 part numbers for the splined portion 1990+, & even the 2006-2012 or -2014 KX250F version fits the KDX splines the same as the '94-'98 splined knuckle, but I do recall one person saying that height of the retaining ball / detent ball on the lever vs the boss was slightly different when mixing and matching one particular combination of different generation lever versus splined boss.

good notes, guys, thanks! I did see where guys specifically mention the 99-01 250 boss (pn 13061-1692), but a new one is 75 bucks, ouch!
I'm just gonna get a used eBay 250f kicker and decide if I want to use that lever or the 125 lever.