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You'll need to remove the staked threads to get the base valve off. Before removing the nut on the compression valve, the threads above the nut must be filed off. Use a file and file lightly the end of the threads until they are flush with the top of the nut.

Notes : The "black thing" in one of your pictures that you refer to is the Base Valve Compression Valve. Most if not all rebound/midvalve and compression valves must be reinstalled in their proper orientation so be sure to take note or pictures so that you don't reinstall it upside down. Ports are different and clamping nut recess are on some valves.

Picture of your bushings is not clear. Basically if you can see any base material on the bushing's working face (looks clearly to be a different material from another part of the bushing's bearing surface) the bushing is shot and should be replaced.

One of your pictures is the rebound valve and yes the midvalve appears on one side and the rebound function on the other.

I've used Pivot Works kits and they seem to be fairly high quality and complete kits so if the bike were mine and I needed or wanted to completely refresh the forks I would not hesitate to use a PW kit.

Be sure that everything is spotless when you reassemble your forks. Valve shims do wear out and it is hard to spot every bad one unless they are cracked or warped bad. Generally I seem to be able to "feel" ones that have been stressed out almost better than visible able to spot them as I sort through used shims - but then again my eyes are 54 years old and not as sharp as yours.

so to get the base vavle compression vavle off, i have to file down the upper most threads??

Also does it appear that i have a mid vavle or just a check plate?? If i have a mid valve should i remove it for woods riding??

A spring behind the rebound piston is a checkplate. If that is the case you have no midvalve.

I do see a spring in there. But will i still have to take it apart to adjust it for my riding type, or do i just adjust the base vavle.

alright, i filed the threads just enough to get the vavle off. I will get some pics of the washers in the order they were on. Would some one be able to tell me what they were set up for by looking at the washers. Or shims as some call them

They are actually springs.... but proly not.

those little washer things are springs.

Hmm interesting.


well here is some pics of the base valve stuff in the order it came off. Does anyone know what i need to do to make them more woods worthy. Thanks

http://img102.imagevenue.com/img.php?lo ... ose_up.jpg

http://img7.imagevenue.com/img.php?loc= ... _shims.jpg

Like leaf springs... they are flat springs.

Talk about Interesting... That arrangement is....

whats interesting about it, i really have no clue what does what. If you could either let me know or maybe give me a site that you may know of that shows you how to arange these that would be great.

Notice how they go from small to large? This is a basic single stage valve.



I can't see any type of progression in the pics you posted. At least it's not clear to me.

does it look like i have racetech vavles?

no

Notice the photo Inda posted where the springs are in a progressive order in size. This is just like the leaf springs on the rear axle of a truck, but in the case of the fork springs, they are round and not just long, thin springs. As oil is forced over the springs, they flex or bow, just like the leaf springs on a car. The more springs or the thicker the springs, the more resistance to dampning. Some shim stacks (springs) are dual stage. The springs are arranged in an order from small to large, then repeat that pattern. This allows for a soft initial dampning for slow bumps like whoops but prevent bottoming in fast bumps, like sharp edged rocks and such. The second stage of springs are usually thicker to aid in the high speed dampning.

Low speed and high speed refer to the dampning rate and not the speed of traveling over the ground. Low speed are rolling, smoother obsticals while high speed are abrubt, sharp edged obsticals. (No matter how fast you are riding.)

do you have any idea how i should set up the ones i have. Or is there a site were i can learn about this. I mean i can put them in order from smallest to largest but i dont think thats all i have to do right?

Also i checked my other base vavle, and it does not have any shims on it. Im gonna contact the seller and make him give me some money for them.

How about the site I keep trying to send you too?

http://www.suspensionnetwork.com

All the suspension shops sell individual shims. They are about $1 each. There can be anywhere from 10 to about 17 shims in that BV stack. The seller can just claim that the forks are "as is" meaning unless he knows he did something and has a conscious you are out the $. You might call a shop, tell them your situation, and they may send you what you need vs what was on the stock forks.

The checkplate has one adjustment, that is the “lift”. It can be anywhere from 1 mm to about 5 mm. I would ask a shop about a reccomendation. Because the forks have been tinkered with, don't trust the lift to be correct.

can someone tell me how to arrange the ones i have or is this not possible. I will definately have to buy new shims because my second base vavle has no on it.

First get the diameters and thickness of each shim. They will probably be between 24 mm and 11 mm. There will also be a thicker spacer that will usually be shiny silver not black. Shim thickness will be either .10 mm or .15 mm. Stock was a single stage stack that would have the largest diameter shims closest to the piston valve assy.