KDXRIDER.NET

Going to bump this since a lot are doing the KX swap these days. I learned a lot in here!

Question: Is the bladder actually removed? I heard its best to disable it but to leave it in. It says to remove it in this thread, but thats not what Im reading elsewhere.

Why did someone say it was better to leave it?

Some say leave it in, but this thread says take it all out.


"Bladder must be totally removed to include rubber bladder, springs, and white plastic collar hardware."

OR:

"Leave the bladder in because they still provide a compressible volume of air that is separate from the oil which reduces aeration."
(This thread does not say this but have read on TT and other posts)

Too much info for my small brain!!!

I think it will be OK either way.

Thats good to know.

I just got my forks back together and did a few of these changes. Main problem I was having was that the front didn’t move evenly with the rear. It would move, but only on hard hits/heavy braking. I have a small jump to mess with and I wasn’t using the last 2.25” of travel, even after going to a .39 fork spring (I weigh 185). After the changes, I have about 3/4” travel remaining on the same jump

Anyway, I dropped the base valve to 1 of the 24’s. The bike moves a lot more evenly when bouncing on the pegs, but it’s not quite perfect.

For the mid, I went to a 17 .3 Bleeder shim against the face of the piston to increase the “float” gap to the 25’s from around .12mm to almost .3mm I also went from 4 to 2 of the face 25’s. This really did soften square edge hits dramatically, and it feels amazing. I’ll probably end up softening the base valve further to get the low speed chassis movement perfectly level. Rear sag has been set, and all clickers are all the way out btw.

The pic with the zip tie about 3/4" from the bottom is probably "bottomed out" as it does not go all the way down to the bottom.

Good job on the major improvements. Try to valve it so you do have some room to adjust the clickers.

in the slo-mo videos of the ktm/husky guys, their fork leg hits the very bottom/theres a visible jolt to the chassis when it happens. i havent felt any sort of "hit" yet, so im assuming i'll know when it really happens.

either way, bike feels awesome, even with all the clickers out. something fun about riding around trails and using the suspension as a springboard of sorts

Next time you have them apart, check it without the spring in there, but the other parts inside.

Have fun out there!