KDXRIDER.NET

They used to sell several different rates. Some of the older models don't have as wide a selection anymore.

I will have to see which rates I have.

To measure the spring rate, you have to either buy some fancy guage or make a home made one. I used to use a set of workout weights / vise / broomstick combo. It actually worked great.

On the buying of valves, stock is fine, just revalve them. Basically, you are going to be removing a few shims to soften it up. Just be sure to flat file the peening off instead of trying to simply unfasten the nut on top. READ, READ, READ before working on it.

Correct me if I'm wrong. The term revalve doesn't mean to replace the valve but to modify the shims? The way that I'm understanding the shims are similar to jets in a carbuerator. And by adding or removing shims you can adjust the amount of fluid that passes through the valve. What is the point of aftermarket valves do they just have bigger holes to allow more fluid to pressure the shims?

Motocross-atv.com has .42 KDX springs available for $110.

The compression valve assembly has many thin washers (called shims). In valving, more washers = more damping, less washers = less damping. Thicker washers = more damping, thinner washers = less damping. Narrower washers = more damping, wider washers = less damping.

In general, I don't really see much need in buying aftermarket valving for 1989+ KX's. For the KDX's, they use an older technology base (compression) valving system that DOES need to be replaced by something like a Race Tech Gold Valve system for 1991+ KDX250 and 1993+ KDX200/KDX220R to enable a lot more tunability.

HE NEEDS KX SPRINGS, NOT KDX!!

As an example on the shims, here is a picture I took of a 1991 KDX200 shock. The top line is compression and the bottom line is rebound, but just focus on compression. The 8 on the left are all the same thickness and diameter. If I was to add a 9th one, that would make more damping (slowing / restriction). If I took one away and left 7, that would make less damping.

Inside your KX forks is a base valve with some shims. By removing a few, there will be less damping, which is more typical of a setup for woods riding. There aren't too many logs, roots and boulders on a MX track and no one is hitting a rythym section to tabletop, then a triple out in the twisty woods. One setup that is awesome for one usually is not so awesome for the other.

I will try to look around on the springs, if you are interested. Just let me know.

And if you dare to run progressive springs, you can drive over and pick up about 5 sets for free.

I'd try them. Do progressive springs have rates aswell? I'm very interested in springs basically I'm dead in the water till I get my hands on springs or until I find a 5 year old to ride on my handle bars to take up some weight. I'll play around on the weekends with the shims once I get springs

Jason wrote:HE NEEDS KX SPRINGS, NOT KDX!!

Oh, well then here http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/90 ... 4091751595

2001 kx 250 spring rates .42 and .43 are available. I need .40s . Thanks for the try though I couldn't find them on their site

Sorry. I have two sets of .44.

I don't have the progressive springs handy, as they are in a rental storage building. sorry again.

I appreciate your knowledge anyways. Thanks for trying. I'm just gonna have to break down and pay for eibachs.