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That is an incredibly good question. I shall investigate at once!

Nope, that's normal.
Removing the washer from the actuator didn't pan out. Made it so things didn't function at all. Guess I'll contact Revloc.

sped66 wrote:IF I loosen everything as far as I can & take the clutch perch off the handlebars, it'll reach. But the actuator is pulled 100% tight.

OK, so if you hook up the cable and put the perch on the handlebars, can you pull in the lever?

I guess what I'm trying to get at is what you mean by 100% tight.

As has been mentioned, it is normal for the cable to be under tension. And it is that tension that is adjusted to get the correct gap in the clutch pack.

I'm looking at your pictures and video and I'm thinking you may have it, but are expecting something different.

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sped66 wrote:Wibs & SS109 are both on "E" bikes right? If that makes any difference.
Mine does indeed have the washer behind the actuator shaft. As for my cable, I'm not looking for the recommended slack called for in the manual. I'm looking to make my clutch lever work at all.
But here's the video. I can take criticism if you see me do anything stupid.

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Looks totally normal to me

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SS109 wrote:What is the big red arrow pointing at? If that is normal for an H series then never mind. As for the actuator washer, it is "as needed" for E and H series bikes IIRC.

It's just keeping the bearing from moving

I have an H series so I do not know if this will help you. First photo is of the clutch actuator arm at rest, and the second photo is of the clutch actuator arm with the clutch lever pulled in. Just thought I would show you the angle that my actuator arm sets at on my bike.



Hope this helps.

for it to be that tight at the case how much adjustment flexibility do you have at the clutch lever or on the cable?

Griffbones wrote:I have an H series so I do not know if this will help you.

I believe the OP has an H series, so those should help. HERE are some pictures of mine from another post.

After looking at the OP pictures, I do believe his actuator arm is rotated too far back for some reason?

Are you sure the clutch stack isn't too thick and not seating down inside of the basket all the way? No disks should be beyond the fingers of the clutch basket. It really appears that the stack is too tall for some reason.

Have you tried installing the center hub first, then installing the disks, Dyna ring and pressure plate, instead of installing the hub, disks, Dyna ring and pressure plate as an assembly, maybe things are not seating down inside of the basket when installing it assembled this way.

With the Dyna Ring are you suppose to run a different number of steels and fibers by chance?

These may be dumb questions as I have never installed a Dyna Ring before.

Thanks for all of the comments everyone. This forum is plumb full of helpful folks! Awesome community.
So I went ahead & did everything I could to get the cable attached. Just barely did. Filled the trans with ATF, kicked her over, & began testing. Dynaring was working but I needed to tighten the cable. I didn't have much to play with at all but I put the wrenches to it. (Nothing forceful mind you.) I almost had it dialed in & just needed to tighten a smidgen more. Then the clutch lever felt limp. I feared I broke the cable, but no.
I look down at the actuator & it's now in the normal position, just like in Griffbones photos. (Thanks for those.) It was dark by then & I'm tired, so I just pushed it into the basement.

Like mentioned above, maybe the clutch stack was indeed not fully seated? I'm guessing it found it's way home? I'll investigate tomorrow.

Hope things are now all good for you sped. Give us an update when you can.

Laid the bike on it's side this time, since it's full of fresh atf. Previously, I've been working on a bike stand.
I noticed the friction plates now have lots of slack. For the hell of it, I buttoned it back up & kicked it over to see how it behaves. With the clutch lever out, the bike won't move in gear. When I pull it in, the motor immediately stalls. LOL, it's working in reverse somehow.
Anyway, I'm just gonna start over. But this time with the bike on its side, building the pack from within rather than externally.

Btw, Alan at Revloc watched my vid (which he thought was a very thorough method of presenting my problem) & said my procedure looked correct. Like several of you, he suggested removing the optional washer on the actuator. But this was all before the cable went limp so...
Try #7 coming up.

While taking it apart, I started to loosen one of the spring bolts when something "popped" is how I would describe it. I noticed the clutch pack was tight again. No play between fibers. It appears that the pressure plate must have moved slightly. In other words, dead center = tight clutch pack. Slightly off center introduces slack. But how it moved I don't know.
So upon buttoning it all up, I'm back to my original situation. The actuator arm is is in a "further back" position, yielding very little play in cable adjustment. As long as it'll work I've decided to not care. But now I have to worry if the pressure plate is going to shift to one side again. After breaking a post on my original pressure plate, I refuse to use the torque wrench in this particular area again.
Anyway, it's getting late so I'll test tomorrow after work.

Did you remove the actuator washer this time?

The last time I removed it, with the actuator arm in the same position that it's in now, the feel at the clutch lever was very wrong. Sort of a "snapping" feel if that makes sense. I can pull it part of the way with resistance, then it "snaps" to another position. Felt broken almost. Yeah, I know I won't be using the lever much once this is sorted, but I'm a bit anal with such things.

Btw my statement in the video about having zero play in cable adjustment was incorrect. Looks like I have around 1/4" to mess with. But I'll try removing the washer again if I need to. Hope to know more tomorrow night.

Small update. Got this bit of info regarding the pressure plate "pop" from Revloc today:

the "pop" sound is not good. My guess is during the cable install you over extend the arm which in turns over extends the aligning pressure plate to inner hub slots. We can duplicate this procedure here in our shop and pretty sure that is what is happening.

Nice to know it's something that can be reproduced, just for peace of mind.
Anyway, started with as much slack in my cable as possible & fired up the motor. Made small adjustments in the cable until the bike would just barely idle in gear without stalling. Seems to be working ok but I won't know for sure until I get a proper ride in this weekend. Oh, and I left the washer at the actuator in for now.
For whatever reason, the actuator arm is just a little further forward than in previous attempts. Maybe an 1/8" or 3/16" further. I'm hoping this is a good sign.

Definitely keep us posted!

what exactly does this dyna ring do?

autoclutch but a hell of a lot cheaper.

brayden55 wrote:what exactly does this dyna ring do?

http://www.revloc.com/index.cfm/id/10/DynaRing/