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Thanks!

Is that 18GA in SWG or AWG or am i missing the point of your post?

all the best

the other post mentions 17 AWG!

17 or 18AWG should work fine.

gertie6car wrote:Thanks!

Is that 18GA in SWG or AWG or am i missing the point of your post?

all the best

18ga enameled coil wire is all that matters. For the record, Nick used 18ga wire if you want to achieve the same results he got.

Hi Guys,

thanks for the confirmation.

All the best

Gert

juliend wrote:When someone can, this should be a sticky.

You know, you're right there, Admin!

TWMOODY wrote:

SS109 wrote:

TWMOODY wrote:I would be more inclined to use an epoxy as not to impair the original
coating on the wire.

And why would you think that coating would impair the original coating? It is specifically designed for electrical components and motor windings.

Not sure I see where it is specifically for motor windings ?


Recommended Uses: Televisions, radios, stereos, transformers, switchboard parts, sealing electrical/electronic components.

Revisiting this again as I would like to seal the windings for a little extra protection.

For the Sprayon product I linked to above it lists in the PDS (http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF ... PDS&lang=E) that it is for use with transformers. IIRC, aren't transformers the same as stators construction wise?

If anyone has a better product that goes on thin I would really appreciate hearing about it!

A sprayon product would be sweet because the epoxy I tried would not fit under the flywheel. (I crammed every last wrap in there that I could!)

So the info is easy to find, here is a couple of products that will work for sealing the windings. Both are made by MG Chemicals, their Super Corona Dope and Red Insulating Varnish. Both can be purchased from many online retailers including...

Allied Electronics
Circuit Specialists
Mouser Electronics

Great Info ! I`ll have to study this further to get details on my 6volt rebuild of my 1984 KDX 250. Not sure of the wire setups of the coils.

I'm in the process of rewinding my stator, the only difference is I'll be installing a regulator/rectifier (i have a battery that needs charging for my dual sport accessories).
So my question here is; instead of placing the ground wire from the stator back to the frame of the bike i believe I'll have to run that wire back to the reg/ref?
I guess this is what you call "floating ground"?
Anyone here done this mod?

I haven't done it but yes you are correct.

RailwayRog wrote:I'm in the process of rewinding my stator, the only difference is I'll be installing a regulator/rectifier (i have a battery that needs charging for my dual sport accessories).
So my question here is; instead of placing the ground wire from the stator back to the frame of the bike i believe I'll have to run that wire back to the reg/ref?
I guess this is what you call "floating ground"?
Anyone here done this mod?

How did your system work out ?
I'm doing the same thing on my 2003 200. I'm using Trail Tech's Reg/Rec and a 2200 mAh Ni-Cad battery to power a socket for charging my GPS and phone on multi day rides here in Co.
I have the 18 ga wire ordered and plan to rewind the coil while I have it apart to add the floating ground.

Anyone know what the output voltage of the lighting coil should be? I put my volt meter on AC Volts mode, and got 33 VAC at idle, and up to 116 VAC at redline. I had my regulator disconnected, so this was just the raw measurement of the coil. The voltage seems high based on what I have read about various other similar bikes, but I can't find a lighting coil output voltage spec for the KDX lighting coil.

I am fitting a Trail Tech 4-wire Rec/Reg and a Ballistic EVO2 50 battery to run a couple 10-watt CREE LED headlights. I hooked up the Rec/Reg, but for some reason the DC output of the Trail Tech Rec/Reg was under 1 volt DC, when I was expecting to see 13.85 VDC with the motor running. Wondering if I just have a bad Rec/Reg (it was used), or if my coil is out of whack.

That's about right. With no load, it runs real high.

Read the posts above. If you are running a rectifrier, you need to float the ground from the coil. In the OEM configuration, the light coil is grounded at one end.

No good for a rectifier setup. A rectifier is looking for AC in on two leads, not one. Check the TrailTech info hopefully included with their box. It doesn't say 'AC' on one lead, 'Gnd' on the other, does it?

I see instructions on their site for a '7004' rectifier that has four leads. It lists the input from the stator as being two yellow wires.

The KDX has one yellow wire, correct? Where's the other one coming from?

I floated the coil, so neither of the ends are gorunded. Then, I extended the wire I had just disconnected from gorund, and ran it out the grommet in the side-case with the other wires, and up to the rec/reg. Each end of the coil goes to one of the two yellow wires (AC Input wires) on the rec/reg.

I don't see the model number of the rec/reg, but I am pretty sure it is the 7003 series with 4 wires. It has one dial, which I believe varies the output DC voltage. I tried moving the dial to different positions, but the output never got past 1 VDC.

Everything sounds correct from what you've told us so maybe it is bad, do you have something else to test it on? Do you have the black wire grounded to the frame? Go ahead and get some 18GA magnet wire and rewind your coil, its a good cheap mod.

Here's the instructions for that unit:
http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/inst ... ELV-71.pdf

Do you have documentation with the thing? Probably not if you are guessing at what the dial does. Know what the max input rating is? And, what does the input measure when it's hooked up?

If it's properly grounded relative to the loads, the output is not OVERloaded, and the input is sufficient to run it..that''s about all there is to it.

There are numerous '7003's from TrailTech. I'm looking at one (the -0020) that is advertised as '150W'.

There is no FM (sexed magic) happening in that box. The OEM KDX stator puts out about 45W of 12VAC power. No way will you ever get 150W of 12VDC coming from that..or anything CLOSE to it.

Consider: Below is a pic of a TrailTech stator/rectifier for a KTM 250, a bike that is listed as being a 'fit' for the -0020 four wire TrailTech 7003 rectifier...




Looks nothing like a KDX stator, 'eh?

...'cuz you ain't gonna get that kind of power out of a single coil.

There is a reason the KDX electrical system is AC (besides being cheap). You aren't going to rectify the output of the OEM KDX light coil and get anywheres close to a useable DC wattage figure.

I am not saying I know it won't work..'cuz I don't know that. The liklihood of it working acceptably?


Doubt it.

Good luck, though.

Roadhazardguy wrote:Everything sounds correct from what you've told us so maybe it is bad, do you have something else to test it on? Do you have the black wire grounded to the frame? Go ahead and get some 18GA magnet wire and rewind your coil, its a good cheap mod.

Here's the instructions for that unit:
http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/inst ... ELV-71.pdf

Look at the diagram of the stator in that pdf... Yeah, it's only a drawing, but I'll bet'cha it's not drawn as three coils for no reason.

And...where is the ground?

This type of setup is referred to as a 'floating ground' for a reason. The same reason I said '..grounded in relation to the loads...' (or whatever I said.....I can't see it now.)

I talked to Trail Tech, and the guy identified mine as an older 7003 series. He said the voltage range I had coming from my coil (~30-120 VAC) would be fine. He confirmed that the dial changes the output DCV range (say from 12V up to 15V out). I am not looking to get any extra Wattage out of the stock coil, instead I went with lower-wattage LED lights (more efficient) which would draw less power than halogen, and will still be bright enough to ride trails if I run out of daylight.

The last thing I can think of is that maybe it needs a load on the DC-Out side (red/black) in order to output. Other than that, it has to be a bad reg/rec.