The slightest 'touch' meaning...it doesn't take much effort to twist?...or it throttles up at the slightest twist? No, i mean just touching the cable anywhere it crosses the bar and goes down the rail. Slightest touch and it raises the throttle.'
Then you need to adjust the throttle cable to HAVE freeplay. A 'touch' where the cable crosses the bar should have no effect on the throttle.
That's a bad accident waiting to happen. FIX it by making the cable 'shorter'...adjust at the throttle housing..screw the thing IN. You should be able to twist the throttle tube 'some' (say, a 1/4" movement measured at the grip flange) and have NO cable movement.
As long as a full twist of the throttle fully raises the slide, you're good. Check THAT by twisting the throttle to its stop, THEN try to lift the slid further at the carb cap. You should not be able to do that.
Not sure I understand the clutch part correctly.
Without you saying what it is you have a question about, I can only repeat what was already said..and that isn't effective.
Try on summa this blather for size........
A 'shorter' cable (example: adjustment at the lever screwed IN) will give you more slack. A 'longer' cable will give you less. You should have 'some' freeplay at the lever. That ensures the pressure on the clutchpack is completely released..off...when you release the handle. THAT ensures you will have the maximum amount of 'stick' you can get. A TOO 'long' cable will put pressure on the springs all the time..effectively 'slipping' your clutch all the time.
That burns things up.
Too much freeplay and you will not be able to disengage the tranny from the engine when the handle is pulled. That means clunky shifts, hard starts when in gear (they're hard anyway on the KDX), inability to find neutral when you want it when the engine is running.
For the 90º part...draw a picture. Make a 90º angled line.. |_ ..on a piece of paper. That angle represents the orientation of the bottom clutch cable to the lever on the actuating rod. Consider the clutch actuating lever (the piece at the top of the cover on the RH side of the engine) to sit slightly to the LEFT |_ of the line when the clutch handle is NOT pulled..and slightly to the RIGHT |/_ of the line when the clutch handle IS pulled.
That orientation will translate into the maximum rotation (movement) of the lever that goes into the RH engine case. This 'maximum' rotation is what gives you the most desireable clutch action..full release of the clutchpack when the handle is pulled, maximum release of THE CLUTCH SPRINGS when the clutch handle is released.
You
CAN have a 'correct' amount of freeplay in BOTH the clutch and throttle actuators and STILL have problems. That's when you need to find out what's broken/bad/wrong/goobered....and
something is!
How's that?
btw....I used 'handle' meaning the clutch lever on your handlebar. That to differentiate between it and the 'lever' at the other end of the cable that is part of the actuating rod that goes INto the case.
