clutch basket question

Discussion specific to the 1995 - 2006 KDX200 (H Series) and 1995 - 2005 KDX220R (A Series) models sold in the USA
Post Reply
race27
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: 12:47 pm May 09 2025
Country: United States
Location: Pensacola,fla
Been thanked: 1 time

clutch basket question

Post by race27 »

the other day the clutch basket broke off a few a

ears and locked up the tranny. since the bottom end and crank seals are still good I would like to be able to retrieve the broke piece without splitting the case. was thinking I might be able to flush it good a few times with diesel and tip it upside down and work out the piece that's locking up the tranny. has anyone been able to do this with any success or am I just hoping too much. just a thought,thanks everyone2000 220
User avatar
Chuck78
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1245
Joined: 06:20 pm Nov 30 2016
Country: USA
Location: Columbus, OH
Has thanked: 15 times
Been thanked: 18 times

Re: clutch basket question

Post by Chuck78 »

While it's very possible that you can flush out all the pieces, there might have already been some damage done to some of the gears, or aluminum debris that potentially is lodged into a bearing that you cannot readily flush out by this method without direct access to the bearing, so even though it might be okay just to do an extensive flushing, it's always going to be best to split the cases to inspect/clean. Putting in a new crank seals isn't a bad idea unless they are less than a season or too old...
'97 KDX220R - purple/green! - KLX forks, Lectron, FMF, Tubliss
'99 KDX220R project - '98/'01 RM125 suspension, Titanium hardware, Lectron Billetron Pro, Tubliss
'77 Suzuki PE250 & '83 Suzuki PE175 Full Floater - restomod projects
'77 Suzuki GS750-844cc, '77 GS400/489cc & '77 GS550/740cc projects
'62 GMC 1000 Panel Truck
'88 Suzuki Samurai TDI/Toyota swaps
'88 Toyota 4x4 pickup
kdxdazz
Member
Posts: 577
Joined: 07:51 am Dec 28 2017
Country: thailand
Location: Thailand

Re: clutch basket question

Post by kdxdazz »

Have you already taken off the clutch case to inspect? It's possible that the ear didn't enter the transmission and locked up the primary gear that connects with the clutch
1999 KDX220SR (KDX220-B5)
race27
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: 12:47 pm May 09 2025
Country: United States
Location: Pensacola,fla
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: clutch basket question

Post by race27 »

update after removing the right side I found both pieces that broke off the clutch basket and were a perfect match back on the basket meaning no chewed up metal from that. so after splitting the case I found the culprit, a broken kips pin lodged in the transmission. I will go back with new crank seals and rings although they're not that old. I should have known I couldn't take the easy route out
User avatar
Chuck78
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1245
Joined: 06:20 pm Nov 30 2016
Country: USA
Location: Columbus, OH
Has thanked: 15 times
Been thanked: 18 times

Re: clutch basket question

Post by Chuck78 »

race27 wrote: 05:10 am Sep 04 2025 update after removing the right side I found both pieces that broke off the clutch basket and were a perfect match back on the basket meaning no chewed up metal from that. so after splitting the case I found the culprit, a broken kips pin lodged in the transmission. I will go back with new crank seals and rings although they're not that old. I should have known I couldn't take the easy route out

Ahhhh... The usual culprit! I have never ever heard of a clutch basket breaking off ears under normal extreme circumstances on it's own... They are a lot tougher than that. I thought, "wow, this is an anomaly. I wonder if there is some sort of casting defect in the clutch basket?"

Some of the marks from the Kip's pin probably could cue you in to the fact that it was steel that gouged out the clutch basket and destroyed it, but you would really have to understand how these work and how easily Miss handling that keeps actuator rod and left hand thread nut can cause this pin to break off and self-destruct the engine. No one ever holds a backup wrench on the shaft when they rotate that left hand thread nut, at least not the amateurs who don't read the manual. I'm not even sure if the manual tells you to use a backup wrench to hold that shaft steady, but it absolutely is necessary. Unfortunately online and some of the KDX groups, people are quick to point out that it is a left hand thread nut, but most people don't make note to hold the shaft steady with the backup wrench as to not put any stresses on that actuator pin that is likely to break off if not treated properly....
'97 KDX220R - purple/green! - KLX forks, Lectron, FMF, Tubliss
'99 KDX220R project - '98/'01 RM125 suspension, Titanium hardware, Lectron Billetron Pro, Tubliss
'77 Suzuki PE250 & '83 Suzuki PE175 Full Floater - restomod projects
'77 Suzuki GS750-844cc, '77 GS400/489cc & '77 GS550/740cc projects
'62 GMC 1000 Panel Truck
'88 Suzuki Samurai TDI/Toyota swaps
'88 Toyota 4x4 pickup
race27
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: 12:47 pm May 09 2025
Country: United States
Location: Pensacola,fla
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: clutch basket question

Post by race27 »

there were some marks where I'm assuming contact from the kips pin were made and since it looked like the basket was at the end of its life looking closer at the basket multiple small cracks were found. no signs of heat so your probably right they were probably from a casting defect of some sort. I know I've replaced probably 10 baskets in my life and most if not all were from just usual wear. all is back together and 5 or 6 heat cycles and a few laps around the neighborhood and this weekend will take it out for the day. thanks everyone for the opinions and help
User avatar
Chuck78
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1245
Joined: 06:20 pm Nov 30 2016
Country: USA
Location: Columbus, OH
Has thanked: 15 times
Been thanked: 18 times

Re: clutch basket question

Post by Chuck78 »

race27 wrote: 06:12 am Sep 05 2025 there were some marks where I'm assuming contact from the kips pin were made and since it looked like the basket was at the end of its life looking closer at the basket multiple small cracks were found. no signs of heat so your probably right they were probably from a casting defect of some sort. I know I've replaced probably 10 baskets in my life and most if not all were from just usual wear. all is back together and 5 or 6 heat cycles and a few laps around the neighborhood and this weekend will take it out for the day. thanks everyone for the opinions and help

I have never seen a clutch basket crack in any of these applications, so I'm almost certain the cracks were caused by the chunks of steel debris bouncing around in your bottom end and getting wedged into the edge of the clutch basket... Also, quite often, cast aluminum can have casting marks which look like cracks but are not. I assume that what you are calling cracks are actually cracks though.
'97 KDX220R - purple/green! - KLX forks, Lectron, FMF, Tubliss
'99 KDX220R project - '98/'01 RM125 suspension, Titanium hardware, Lectron Billetron Pro, Tubliss
'77 Suzuki PE250 & '83 Suzuki PE175 Full Floater - restomod projects
'77 Suzuki GS750-844cc, '77 GS400/489cc & '77 GS550/740cc projects
'62 GMC 1000 Panel Truck
'88 Suzuki Samurai TDI/Toyota swaps
'88 Toyota 4x4 pickup
race27
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: 12:47 pm May 09 2025
Country: United States
Location: Pensacola,fla
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: clutch basket question

Post by race27 »

without a doubt metal bouncing around caused this as you say. the clutch basket looked to be original as much wear was on it. I've broke 2 kips pins in the past and both I found in the bottom without splitting the case, luck just wasn't with me on this one. it was about time to pull it down to clean the kips anyway so this just helped that along. thanks for the input
Post Reply