87 KDX Rear Shock Lower Clicker Bind?

[Joe87KDX]

Hi Guys I am in the middle of rebuilding my rear shock on my 87 KDX200. When I go to install the shock shaft into the lower clevis, it is causing the clicker bevel gears to bind. I am thinking that there should be a washer in between the clevis and the shock shaft to provide correct lash between the gears. See picture below. I can't find any exploded diagrams that show the individual pieces of the shock shaft/clevis assembly. Can anyone confirm if there should be a washer here and if so, do you have any dimensions (specifically thickness)?

Is there something else I might be missing?

[KDXGarage]

SEXY!! What did you do to the clevis, Cerakote??

Cool that you have a Gold Valve. Cool spacers to get the height right, too. Are you just making your best guess on the valving? I thought about putting one in mine years ago, but never did. Cool to see someone do it.

On to your question and not me just looking at the shiny, pretty picture. Are you sure the rod, o-ring and such are all good on the inside? Was it working well before? Is there an issue on when the adjuster and needle installation order? I have not taken one apart to that level.

Thank you.

[Kipsy]

Here's a pic of an old 87 shock I had laying around. I doubt it's ever been opened up. It appears to have no washer.

How did you decide which gold valve to buy? I'd also like to know how you got the valving. I'm starting working on a pair of C-Series bikes right now and I'd like to do a Gold Valve in one of them, as I'm going to run a stiffer spring in one.

[Joe87KDX]

Thanks for the reply KDXGarage and Kipsy! Kipsy, your picture was just what I needed. A little further investigation led me to find some chipped gear teeth inside the clevis. I thought everything was operational prior to disassembly. So, either I missed it or somehow broke them trying to assemble the shaft into the clevis. Regardless I've got some investigating to do, and I need to acquire another shock / clevis that I can pull some parts from.

Yes, the clevis is Cerakote.

Regarding your questions about gold valve, here is what I've got: The part number is SMGV 401602 from Race Tech. This gold valve kit comes with an assortment of shims and access to their online DVS valving system. I enter my rider weight, terrain, skill/speed level, etc. into the DVS sheet online and they provide a full shim stack for compression and rebound using what's available in the kit. We'll see how close it is whenever I get the bike done.

I did run into one issue which revolves around KDXGarage's comment on my spacers. The kit includes two types of shaft nut, a standard type and a special nut with built in shim locating shoulder. The standard nut didn't get enough thread engagement and the special "shoulder nut" bottomed out before tightening down against the shim & valve stack (there was a ~5mm gap! I ended up machining the shoulders off of one of the additional shoulder washers included plus more spare shims to get the proper thread engagement. Below is picture that hopefully helps.... clear as mud right?

[KDXGarage]

T-hank you for the info. Years ago, they just showed "Call Race Tech" for custom valving and they did not offer a kit marketed for the 86-88 KDX200. One thing I would suggest on any super build is that I read 1988 and older shock bodies are not hard anodized like the 1989 and newer shock bodies.

[pkenney]

Hate to thread-jack but wondering if there is a way to get the clicker assembly out of the clevis. My KDX has been sitting for a few years and the shock was down to about 50psi. I am taking it out to rebuild it and see the top of the shock is covered in black goo. Bottom of the shock is clean so the seal head is OK. Last time I rebuilt it I did not take that assembly out since there is a plug driven in. do you need to take the clevis off the shaft to get it out??

BTW, on the clicker, I have an old shock with the upper bearing out and see that there is a pin that moves in and out when the clicker is rotated. It can extend into the bearing bore if you turn it far enough. I have 2 old shocks that aren't in too bad condition if you end up needing a clevis.

[pkenney]

BTW, did you mean "upper" clevis??? or do I have my shock mounted upside down?

[KDXGarage]

Just in case: Do not check the pressure on shocks with a normal tire gauge. You let out a ton when you do. Just pump it up to a certain level when rebuilding.

[Joe87KDX]

Hi pkenney, yeah you are right, I meant upper clevis. Haven't really gotten to the point of actually thinking about putting the shock in the bike!

I am not experienced with removal of the clicker assembly on the clevis as my local suspension shop did it (disassembled and Cerakoted the clevis) when I had them anodize the shock body and fork tubes. They mentioned that there is a pressed in pin that retains the clicker assembly that needs to be drilled out in order to remove it (see below picture). I'll be attempting this on mine sometime this week so I can get the assembly out to replace the chipped gears. I'll let you know how it goes and post an "exploded picture" of it when I get it apart. If you do have a shock / clevis available for sale, I would be interested. I am looking for a shock shaft/clevis assembly that hasn't been disassembled.

[KDXGarage]

Thanks for the info. I had no clue on that.

[pkenney]

I have a self closing schrader valve setup for charging shocks. There was some pressure loss when I opened the valve but it was definitely low.
I have 2 old bladders sitting on the bench that are dry and cracked so I assume the one in the shock is also. The pressure might have gone into the shock instead of out which is why I have oil around the top clevis. Its worth investigating.

On the clevis, I drilled a 1/8" hole in the plug and tried a screw extractor but so far I have not been able to remove the plug. I will try again this evening if you wanted to wait before drilling yours. If I look into the 1/8" hole I can see movement when I rotate the clicker so there is not a set-screw.

[pkenney]

Update... don't drill the plug. It is not a plug, it is actually a pressed-in cup that contains the spring and ball for the rebound clicks. Once that cup is removed the knob assembly and top bevel gear comes out. I may end up threading the hole and making a cup out of a short 6mm bolt since I have boogered up the cup on this shock. I'll try to add a few photos later but it has been a while since I've done that on this board.

I'm wondering if the assembly of the clevis onto the shaft needs to be done without the knob/upper bevel gear installed. It seems like if the clevis was just screwed onto the shaft it could damage the bevel gears due to all the pressure.

I also didn't see anything rubber in there so on my shock the oil leaking is probably due to an o-ring somewhere on the rebound shaft.
I can't get the clevis off of any of my shafts even with heat... they keep slipping in my shaft holder so will need to make one that grips the shaft over a longer distance.

[Joe87KDX]

Sorry pkenney I hope I didn't steer you wrong... I think you might be right about assembly order causing the bevel gear to get damaged. That's probably what went wrong with my set up. Looks like I will still have to drill out the cup on mine as this is the only way to get the knob/bevel gear assembly out of the clevis so I can replace it?

I wonder if the detent setup in the shock is equivalent to something like this that I found on McMaster Carr's website? There are a lot more options including threaded versions on their website so maybe we can get one of them to work....

[pkenney]

I was already heading down that road with my own shock problems so you didn't steer me wrong.
The Mcmaster parts are very similar but this cup-spring had around a ~5.7mm dia with a ~6mm step at the top.

You need to drill it out to remove it but it might be able to be reused if you don't drill too big - I'd say the spring is ~4mm dia.
I assumed it was a thin plug like you'd see in a carb so was not careful and ruined mine but I think the top step is the only part that is pressed in.
A thru-hole probably won't prevent it from being reused since there should not be pressure up there.
I think it only holds the knob in and provides the clicks so the hole could probably be RTV'd.