Bought Used FMF Gnarly 020057

[billie_morini]

Purchased yesterday on ebay for $150. I wanted a backup for the Gnarly that's on my KDX 220. The condition is very good for the price (e.g., 1/2 of new). I buy a lot of used stuff. Once I have it, we'll see if the photographed ding needs any attention or not.

[billie_morini]

more fotos

[billie_morini]

more fotos

[KDXGarage]

Hoard away! Looks great to me. I am no expert riding coach, but I doubt any rust or dings will be noticed by you when you are hopefully soon once again out riding down the trail, looking ahead, not down at a pipe.

That little ding is real far from the pipe to bike end. MX Action and Dirt Bike used to say that after the first 6 inches, it wouldn't really matter much.

I would get some Evaporust gel and clean it up, then lube it for storage, inside and out. Lube the o-rings, too. FMF actually used to sell o-ring packs.

[billie_morini]

eBay purchase received. Gnarly pipe condition is same as shown in advertised photos. Small dent is slightly smaller and less impressive in-person. Not as advertised is the FMF part number. Advertisement says it's 20057 (woods). But, manufacturer stamped it as 20056 (desert). This is a non-issue because 1) I'm curious, 2) condition is good, 3) price was very fair, and 4) I'm old & don't ride to win. I'm curious because my present pipe is 20057. Now it will be easy to try the 20056.

[KDXGarage]

I am glad it worked out for you. Keep healing and rehabbing!

[Chuck78]

Despite a lot of people spouting second hand and third hand information that the Gnarly Woods pipe is not a good choice for the 220, I can tell you for a fact that on the two modified 220's that we have here, one with a Ron Black head & Lectron carb, the other with a Ron Black head and Ron Black 36mm PWK35 carb, both of them run AWESOME with the woods pipe. The desert pipe definitely has a bit more top end, but people would make you think that the 220 is choked out and anemic with the woods pipe and has no top end at all, but the smooth power delivery and lack of any abrupt traction breaking hit while gaining more mid-range torque to more easily loft the front wheel than even before, is definitely a good trait for some people. It doesn't extend the power band significantly lower as far as usable significant areas of torque, but what it does is makes it much much more difficult to stall at below the power band all the way down to idle speed. The smaller Woods by his also a lot tougher and can take more slams due to the smaller diameter. It also allows the Hyde Racing skid plate to install much easier with the front exhaust mount than with the bigger pipes. The Hyde skid plate is the best on the market alongside the SxS slide plate which has a linkage guard as well but is the most expensive at $150.

[billie_morini]

thx 2 KDX-G, I asked FMF about o-rings for 020056 & 020057. Ralph @ FMF says this is the kit:

FMF KX125 88-02/YZ85 19-22 PIPE SPRING & O-RING KIT P/N 011311 011311

https://www.fmfracing.com/products/acc- ... 7278&_ss=r

[billie_morini]

Chuck, thx 2 U, 2. Experienced voice appreciated. Eventually, I'll try this "new" desert pipe. I am happy enuff w/ woods pipe & thought that's what I was getting based on ebay ad. As long as bottom end on desert pipe is same or very close to woods pipe, then I'll be happy

[KDXGarage]

Here's the o-ring part:


This Kawasaki 670E3039 O RING fits the following models and components:

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KX125 - KX125-L2 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KDX200 - KDX200-H6 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1987 KX125 - KX125-E2 MUFFLER

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1991 KX125 - KX125-H2 MUFFLER

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1992 KX125 - KX125-J1 MUFFLER

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 KDX220R - KDX220-A11 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1989 KX125 - KX125-G1 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1994 KDX200 - KDX200-E6 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1990 KX125 - KX125-H1 MUFFLER

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1995 KX125 - KX125-K2 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1993 KX125 - KX125-J2 MUFFLER

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1988 KX125 - KX125-F1 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 KDX220R - KDX220-A9 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1995 KDX200 - KDX200-H1 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1994 KX125 - KX125-K1 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KDX200 - KDX200-H5 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KX125 - KX125-K5 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1993 KDX200 - KDX200-E5 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1989 KDX200 - KDX200-E1 Muffler(KDX200-E1)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1990 KDX200 - KDX200-E2 Muffler(KDX200-E2)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1991 KDX200 - KDX200-E3 Muffler(KDX200-E3)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 KX125 - KX125-K4 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 KDX200 - KDX200-H9 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 KDX200 - KDX200-H11 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2006 KDX200 - KDX200H6F Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1996 KX125 - KX125-K3 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1996 KDX200 - KDX200-H2 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1992 KDX200 - KDX200-E4 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KDX220R - KDX220-A6 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 KDX200 - KDX200-H10 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 KDX220R - KDX220-A4 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KDX220R - KDX220-A5 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 KDX200 - KDX200-H7 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 KDX220R - KDX220-A10 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 KDX200 - KDX200-H8 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KX125 - KX125-L1 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KDX200 - KDX200-H4 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 KDX200 - KDX200-H3 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 KDX220R - KDX220-A12 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KDX220R - KDX220-A7 Muffler(s)

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 KDX220R - KDX220-A8 Muffler(s)

[Chuck78]

Chuck, thx 2 U, 2. Experienced voice appreciated. Eventually, I'll try this "new" desert pipe. I am happy enuff w/ woods pipe & thought that's what I was getting based on ebay ad. As long as bottom end on desert pipe is same or very close to woods pipe, then I'll be happy

I'm sorry Billie, I misread your post....you already had a Woods pipe on your 220, & thought you were buying another one, but you ended up with a Desert pipe instead!
I rode two Gnarly Desert pipes for probably 7-8 seasons with great successes. The 220 porting still produces pretty great bottom end with the Gnarly Desert, just not as strong as early as the woods pipe, but the torque ramps up more, whereas the Gnarly Woods has a slightly stronger and more linear torque curve down low and
starts to slowly drop off above midrange where the Desert picks up and revs slightly higher with a couple extra horsepower up top and for for a bit longer. The Woods tractors well below the powerband, while the Desert on the 220 does to some extent but not as strong off idle. You've got the 220 woods porting either way, and this remains evident, the pipes just focus the power a bit differently. I really feel the Pro Circuit Platinum 2 is the best pipe for these bikes overall, and the Desert should only be used on 200's for people who never see tight technical woods riding and only ride high revs, race, or ride wide open terrain. The Desert on the 220 or a big bore ported 200 is fine anywhere, but the PC Platinum 2 is basically the best of both FMF pipes, but unfortunately out of stock again as they only made a batch of 50 after a 3.5 year wait list... Pro Circuit are biased towards old Kawasaki's, but they do far more research and tuning, and as such, they offer for example 4 or 5 different pipe models for 1995-1998/1999-2002 KX125 models based on the specific cylinder porting tuning traits of each model year change, whereas FMF offer only two pipes 1995-1997(98?) & 1998(99?)-2002 KX125... They have a lot more pipe models to keep in stock per model than FMF, and as such, let the wait list build up to 30-35+ requests before they schedule a batch to be produced in 4-6 months from that time...

[billie_morini]

Chuck78: many thanks for the additional detailed notes. Your knowledge is encyclopedic. Your willingness to share your knowledge is greatly appreciated. Billie

[Chuck78]

Chuck78: many thanks for the additional detailed notes. Your knowledge is encyclopedic. Your willingness to share your knowledge is greatly appreciated. Billie

I saw a dyno chart once for the Gnarly Woods torque pipe vs the Gnarly Desert rev pipe, and it showed exactly what I'd expect, take two parallel power curve graphs and make them cross each other in the mid-range, with the Woods being clearly stronger in the lower mid-range and mids, then dropping off in the upper mids where the desert pipe his the mid range and ramps up to a power spike and takes off making more power than the Gnarly Woods and slightly higher rev out. The Gnarly Desert has more of a spike or hit, even on the dyno graph it's obvious.

A 220 head done up by Ron Black will rev out higher and build more torque when using the woods pipe, vs stock 220 head. A 220 head just milled for a tighter squish band clearance and not having the squish width or combustion chamber dome altered will mostly just boost low end and mids, not as much improvement for rev out as this raises the compression a lot higher (2&stroke higger compress heads will detract from high rpm and boost low end power and response). So an RB head or similar and 34mm Lectron or PWK35 Air Striker on a 220 with the Gnarly Woods will rev out far better than a stock 220 head and PWK33 with same Gnarly Woods pipe.

Basically the 220 porting, especially the port timing, I feel is pretty genius despite Eric Gorr not liking it. It only needs some basic port cleanup, and perhaps a slight widening of the intake side, + gasket matching to the cases on the transfer ports. Fredette also seems to like to hog out the 220 ports to be more like the 200 porting, but really I feel that's a mistake for some rider's preferred power traits. Oddly if you do a bit if digging, you'll find that people initially thought that the new H-Series 200 was weak compared to the E-Series KDX 200 engines, but really it's because of the E-Series being ported slightly stronger for the low/mid-range where more useable power is... Also the E-Series ignition curves had more initial advance early, so they came on a bit stronger. The H-series definitely was a more reliable power valve construction though, and was able to be bored out +5.0mm, vs the E-Series big bore being limited to +1.00mm or +2.00mm overbore... H-Series had the better potential overall, but as stock, E-Series performance seemed stronger.

Another interesting comment worth mentioning is that I know for a fact Eric Gorr thinks this, and I just talked to another KX 125 fanatic who also stated the same thing, the mid late 1990s Kawasakis all had the transfer port heights higher than what some tuners prefer. Pro Circuit and Boyko Racing both will turn down the base gasket surface on cylinders like this in order to lower the port timing and then they can raise the rest of the ports besides the transfers in order to compensate. Epoxy or TIG welding also can be used to change the port timing in some areas if the cylinder is getting replated.

Bottom line is, all 3 of the aftermarket pipes perform well on the 220. I think I prefer the Pro Circuit Platinum 2 the most, although it still has a bit of a hit, but fine tuning jetting can mellow this out for traction.

[billie_morini]

Chuck, thank you again. Your extensive notes are greatly appreciated.