E series KIPS valve

[Keystone]

I just bought a 1990 KDX200, so excited. One topic of concern for me is the KIPS valves on these e series. The problem with the e series shredding KIPS valves has me wondering a few things.
I've read that the KIPS valve should be cleaned and inspected every 22 hours? And even with excellent care, these valves will eventually shred or break. What happens to all the bits of aluminum and steel when these things shred? Does it harm the cylinder/piston? Those shredded metal parts have to go somewhere.
On average, how long do these KIPS valves last before needing replaced. I mean, if I'm an average weekend trail rider, can I get 2-3 years out of properly maintained KIPS valves?
I've always heard these bikes are "bulletproof", but this sounds like a serious flaw in the engine. I'm excited about the bike and will enjoy the hell out of it either way!

[Gotanubike]

Most important and best way to avoid ruining valves is to use a quality 2T oil I think...Keep them clean and run the bike though the power band regularly to avoid spooge buildup. I'm willing to bet 80% of KIPS failures are the result of not using them enough!
I'll sometimes do a pre-ride check of the valves by removing the KIPS resonator cover and the right side governor rod cover and moving the kips back and forth by hand. You can see the left one moving through the resonator port on the left side, so if everything feels right and they're gliding smoothly, then I'm good to go...add a little grease or a dab of engine oil to the left one through the port and you're set.

[Keystone]

Pre-ride check and lubrication of the valves sounds like good insurance. I have heard stories of people replacing sheared KIPS valves on the e series every season and others who claim the KIPS on their e series have gone eight years until needing replaced. It seems like it is usually the left? side valve that gets sheared, because it is aluminum I guess. That replacement part is currently available at about $40, IF that is the only part of the KIPS that routinely fails. So, it would seem, to own a e series you must remove the top end once a year at minimum to properly clean the KIPS. This would also mean replacing the gasket and rings once a year like it or not.
Replacing the top end every year for preventative measures and replacing an additional $40 part every now and then doesn't bother me as much as what the effects of the sheared KIPS valve metal will be on my engine over time. That, and hoping the KIPS valve parts will remain available through Kawasaki since there seems to have never been a fix (except buying an H).

[Gotanubike]

The gasket is non composite, it's just a steel so you may be able to reuse if you're careful enough. I would first just check that the cylinder head is nice and flat on the mating surface. That can be done with some sand paper and a sheet of glass..

The left valve, right one and the idle gear are aluminum. Have you looked a the diagrams and such from the manual? The top end can easily be removed it takes maybe 25 minutes. No need to remove the exhaust pipe unless you are taking the cylinder off. Just drain the coolant, remove the tank, one radiator hose, and a couple mounting brackets and the head can be removed. Though I would recommend taking the cylinder off for a first time overhaul of the KIPS.

[SS109]

I'm running the same KIPS valves that came with my bike for 3+ years now with no problem. Good oil, good fuel (I'm a firm believer in Chevron fuel as it helps keep the KIPS from gunking up), and periodic cleaning will make them last a long time.

[Gotanubike]

Can we get a karma system on this forum?

[Keystone]

That is a ray of hope SS109! It seems some people get only 20 hours or so while others get 3+ years? Strange, but I wonder if it has to do with maintenance from the beginning of the bikes life? I wonder if the KIPS on these E series is allowed to get gunked up chewed and shredded, If that does some kind of permanent internal damage? If it will somehow affect the placement of the KIPS in an awkward way from then on, even with new properly maintained valves. Just a theory. I just find it amazing and unbelievable that Kawasaki would allow production of a motorcycle for 5 years knowing the KIPS valves are commonly (or even sometimes) shredding every 20-30 hours.

[6 Riders]

That is a ray of hope SS109! It seems some people get only 20 hours or so while others get 3+ years? Strange, but I wonder if it has to do with maintenance from the beginning of the bikes life? I wonder if the KIPS on these E series is allowed to get gunked up chewed and shredded, If that does some kind of permanent internal damage? If it will somehow affect the placement of the KIPS in an awkward way from then on, even with new properly maintained valves. Just a theory. I just find it amazing and unbelievable that Kawasaki would allow production of a motorcycle for 5 years knowing the KIPS valves are commonly (or even sometimes) shredding every 20-30 hours.

Well, I just took my 94 down for the first time since I've owned it...about 6 years...My power valves where in great shape, I never cleaned mine BTW.. I almost hated to remove them since they where so clean and free moving, but I have to re nickel the cylinder (that's what 5 years w/o new rings got me). I was truly surprised to see them in that condition.

[Gotanubike]

Just out of curiosity how much did you donate to become a platinum member?

They could easily be made to last forever tho. A lot of people who ride 2 strokes don't always have the right idea when it comes to riding them. It's important to run a 2 stroke throughout the power band to cycle the unburned fuel out of the combustion chamber and spark arrestor. If you're constantly putting around in low rpms, that unburned oil is going to accumulate and eventually harden into a layer of spooge. that layer of spooge will put stress of the kips valve and slowly but sure they will seize up.

[Keystone]

Just out of curiosity how much did you donate to become a platinum member?

I sent you a PM on donations. I don't understand why some people can't get through a riding season without snapping a KIPS shaft and others can get 5-6 years with no maintenance and everythings fine. I hope I'm one of those 5-6 years people but I'll be tearing the head off every winter just for insurance.

[Falcon911]

I must have had my bike for 11+ years and the Kips are still fine. Just recently did a top end and made sure they were perfectly clean. This is the FIRST time I have taken them out despite previously putting rings in.
I use Silkolene Pro-comp two at 45-1.

There must be something wrong if people are wrecking them in a season.

Cheers
Andy

[Keystone]

I just bought a (second) 1993 KDX200. Owner stated he owned the bike for two years and had not serviced KIPS or rings. Who knows when the previous owner before him did it, so I ripped the top end apart (3-1-2014) to find out.





As I was removing the top end and KIPS gaskets, the gaskets seemed brittle. I would say this bike has not been serviced in a long time. After removing the KIPS valves they were sharp and in like new condition with no visible wear other than slight discoloration where the gears had meshed together leaving a clean, carbon free surface.



I have to say, KIPS valves seem solid on this bike - and the bike has obviously not seen routine maintenance in years.

[Gotanubike]

Congrats on your new kdx. But what's up with those shrouds? It looks they were heated up and molded to make a curve around the exhaust...The rad shroud too. Never seen something like that

Those KIPS valves look good, give them a 20 minute bath in some kerosene and polish them up with a stuff bristle tooth bush. I used a small flat head screw driver to get the crud out of the teeth of the rod.

How about the piston? Stock or something else?

[Keystone]

what's up with those shrouds? It looks they were heated up and molded to make a curve around the exhaust...The rad shroud too. Never seen something like that

Must be the lighting/shadow of the photo. all rear exhaust shrouds on the E series are molded to the silencer, heres a photo of the rear shroud on my 1990 E series. You can see the curvature but not as pronounced without the sunlight and the plain white decal intact :



I think the piston and cylinder are stock. Did some measurements and it seems like the standard 66.00mm bore.

[Joshmcmillan]

I pulled the head off my E-series KDX200 to find it didn't even had the Right KIPS valve, centre and left side were in good nick, actuator shaft pin was broken. Replaced left and right kips valves and have had no trouble since. Selling the bike now (bought a H-series) so I'll never know how long they last.

[Keystone]

I had a very hard time getting the KIPS valves installed correctly. The left, right and idle gear drop down in with no problem. Lining them up with the diagram in the manual to the operating rod is easy. It's the center (main) exhaust valve thats the problem. There is no good explaination in the 1989 kawasaki service manual on how to properly install and align the main exhaust valve. Even Cyclepedia seems to get it wrong. Heres how I did it (this is for the e-series '92 - '93 - '94 Kips valves kdx200 ONLY). "Gotanubike" brought to my attention: the '89 - '90 - '91 Kips valves are different (has a different main exhaust valve) so your procudure will probably follow the manual or cyclepedia.


First, here are the parts for a e-series KIPS. Notice the main exhaust valve has a gear that wraps about halfway around with a flat spot on bottom.




In order for the left, right and main exhaust valves all to open at the same time, they must all be aligned with the operating rod in sync. the service manual explains how to sync the left and right valves with a detailed diagram, punch marks and machined grooves but says nothing about how to align the main valve. - IMPORTANT- In these photos I show how the main exhaust valve and the operating rod will initially be meshed (first tooth next to the flat spot on the main exhaust valve meshed with machined groove in operating rod). I could only mesh them properly by removing the cylinder head from the bike and peering into the exhaust valve port as I lined up the gears. I don't believe the main exhaust valve can be properly aligned while cylinder is still on the bike.




First thing I did was drop in the left and right exhaust valves. aligning these valves at this point is not important, I did that last step.




Next, I inserted the operating rod just about 1/4 of the way in. I had the two sets of teeth facing torward the cylinder where they will mesh with the right and left subvalves and the lower set of teeth that will mesh with the main exhaust valve facing down. I had to wiggle it around some and lift up on the right exhaust valve to get it in.




Then, I FULLY inserted the main exhaust valve without the outside cylinder sleeve. I had to make sure the operating rod was BACKED OUT enough or the main exhaust valve would bump into it and not go fully in. Flat spot on the gear wheel was facing UP, this is so I could get the operating rod to clear it just to the right spot where I wanted them to mesh. For now, I didnt worry about aligning the top left and right valves- did that as last step.




I carefully inserted the operating rod over the main exhaust valve until I met my predetermined mesh point -IMPORTANT-(see above photo #2 and #3). You have to be looking into the main exhaust valve in order to get this aligned right and this is why I think the cylinder HAS to be off the bike, otherwise, it's just blindly inserting the gear and hoping it lines up. This way, you know. When I had these teeth meshed exacly how I wanted them, the hard part was over. I double checked that the main exhaust valve was still fully inserted, then made sure the double set of teeth on the operating rod where still facing the right and left subvalve gears and the lower set of teeth on the operating rod I just meshed were still be facing DOWN.




Then I finished inserting the operating rod until the rubber o ring clicked and seated into the cylinder. I had to wiggle it a little but made SURE all the teeth and gears remained meshed as I inserted it. I installed the idle gear at this point also. Next I installed the sleeve that fits over the main exhaust valve and pushed it in all the way - theres a ciclip that goes on, dont forget it, it's very small and easy to miss.




Then I lined up the top left and right exhaust valves with punch marks just like the diagram in the manual.




This is the '89 kdx200 servive manual that shows proper left and right subvalve alignment.




I started to put in the phillips head retaining screw but left it out a bit just for the photo. Now, in this position and with the operating rod slid out, all ports are OPEN. With the operating rod slid to "open" position, I calibrated my left and right subvalveles to the service manual diagram. I installed the top collars in the correct position. After I installed the collars, main exhaust valve sleeve and circlip - the thing slid in and out like butter.




This photo shows the operating rod slid to "closed" position. All valves were closed. Top of gear on the main exhaust valve is cleanly facing UP and flat spot is on BOTTOM when in "open" or "closed" position, Rolls a little bit each way.




And final product. Hope this helps someone who was frustrated like me.

[6 Riders]

I had a hard time getting all the valves to time correctly, took me a few tries.....then I figured out that the timing on the left (single gear) valve needed to be positioned just a tad of when timing in the center valve. I also recall being able to rotate the actuating rod a little to help set the timing. I have the cylinder off the bike, so I was able to visually inspect that the valves where/are operating correctly. But, it was hell for me to get the timing set "just right" with all the valves opened/closed at the same time.
Thanks for the write up, even if it is a week to late

[Keystone]

I got all the valves to open and close just right in sync like silk, no guesswork. For me, it all revolves around getting things started by getting the teeth on the main exhaust valve and operating rod meshed properly like in my photo. It took some reverse engineering to figure out the teeth positioning of that mesh point. From there, I just adjusted everything afterward. I cant see anyone properly installing the main exhaust valve properly with the cylinder on the bike. For me anyway, it's the only way to do it!
Edit: Don't forget to replace the little rubber o-ring when re-installing the outer cover on the main exhaust valve with the two 8mm bolts.

[KDXGarage]

WOW! Thank you for the write up. Great job and explanation.

[Gotanubike]

Yeah that middle one If I remember wouldn't fit past the rod if the rod or anything were installed before it. So before anything, install the middle valve, then pull it back maybe a half inch to clear the teeth on the rod, install the rod all the way in, then idle gear+2 side valves, then with the rod all the way out, push the middle valve in to the teeth in the open position with the other 2, then install middle valave bushing/guide/slider dealy. Took me a few tries to get it

Mind you, I did all this by removing and installing the rod from the left side. Much easier and no need to remove the right side guide "valve"