C2 KDX engine rattle at higher revs

Post by **KDXGarage** » 07:40 pm Jun 01 2013

gray gasket stuff?

Please tell me you didn't make your own goopy gasket for the clutch cover.

xcracer · Post by **xcracer** » 09:03 pm Jun 01 2013

Not exactly.

I used Permatex Motoseal 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey for the case halves, but I also put a very very thin film on the clutch cover and stator cover before putting them on with brand new conventional gaskets. I read somewhere that by putting a tiny bit on one side, the gasket will not stick to that face and therefore can be reused without ripping / damaging it.

Is it wrong to use the gasket maker on the clutch half? If so, why? I'm curious....

Post by **KDXGarage** » 01:08 am Jun 02 2013

OK, so long as it was not JUST gasket maker. Spacing the KIPS actuator is one reason, as it fits in the clutch cover bearing.

xcracer · Post by **xcracer** » 08:20 am Jun 02 2013

Yes, this makes sense. Also the clutch pusher, and the shifter end stop.

Sweet. Thanks.

xcracer · Post by **xcracer** » 06:10 pm Jun 02 2013

So, I'm not completely done the re-build, but I have one o-ring that doesn't have a home.
It's around the same diameter as the piston small end bearing. And came with the gasket kit, not the seal kit. (Seal kit was only oil seals, no o-rings. Gasket kit had 4 o-rings - 2 for exahust, 1 for power valve, and 1 for.....??)
Any ideas?
It seems to fit the kick starter, but there is no o-ring on the diagram.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 07:04 pm Jun 02 2013

cross reference it with the countershaft o-ring

xcracer · Post by **xcracer** » 08:33 pm Jun 02 2013

Much smaller diameter, and thicker profile. It's probably a 2.0mm thick, 16mm ID. The countershaft is 22mm ID x 1.5mm thick.
The gasket kit came from Athena - no description or anything on any of the parts.
It was a "complete gasket kit" and it included the following:
cylinder gasket, head gasket, expansion pipe o-rings (2x), expansion pipe copper spacer, reed case gasket, left side cylinder cap (exhaust expansion chamber), clutch cover, stator cover, KIPS seal o-ring.... Think that's it.
I had all the parts diagrams for motor, cases, etc, printed off when I was re-building it, and didn't notice anything missing / not there.....

Update: I looked at the packaging again, and it was a 10pc kit. That o-ring would be part # 11 (unless they count both exhaust o-rings as 1pc). Could be that it made its way in accidentally? Or maybe that it was a bag of two o-rings and they couldn't be bothered to open it to remove the extra one?

Post by **KDXGarage** » 01:18 am Jun 03 2013

2x16 is not ringing a bell for me

How do you like the Athena gasket quality?

xcracer · Post by **xcracer** » 08:52 am Jun 03 2013

Never worked on a dirt bike motor before, so I have nothing to compare to.
And this one was available the next day.
Seem to be ok, but I do have a small leak at the bottom of the clutch cover. (Standing overnight with oil in it, it dripped a few times. Nothing major, but for a new gasket?)

Post by **KDXGarage** » 12:02 pm Jun 03 2013

Did you put sealant on it? It is supposed to be dry.

Goofaroo · Post by **Goofaroo** » 07:49 pm Jun 03 2013

Are you confident that the it's leaking from the clutch cover and not the case halves? How did the mated surfaces look when you had it apart?

The clutch cover has some good size dings in it, and some are starting to show cracking on the inside of the case.

As far as the clutch cover gasket, it's not going to leak just because you tacked the gasket to the cover with some sealer. Are you sure it's not damaged and/or distorted?

For what it's worth, I found a new clutch cover on Ebay for $38 including shipping.

xcracer · Post by **xcracer** » 05:17 pm Jun 04 2013

I'm going to wipe it all down and see if I can pinpoint the leak. It definitely seems to be the clutch cover though.
And yeah, I have a very very thin layer of sealer on one face. I pretty much put on a thin layer, and then wiped it all off.
And when I had the cover off, I don't remember seeing any glaring damage to either side of the case - I remember cleaning the gasket off and not seeing anything major.

I'll re-pull the cover and take another look when i get a new thrust washer in a few days.
Cheers

Post by **KDXGarage** » 05:31 pm Jun 04 2013

Hopefully, the cover or crankcase is not warped or damaged. Good luck with it.

xcracer · Post by **xcracer** » 09:58 pm Jun 15 2013

So, and update, and some more questions.

As for the clutch cover, I pulled it again, and nothing was too messed up, although where there was a spot where the crankcase had extra material (the extra metal near the drain plug) which was definitely dented and pushed over the parting line for the clutch cover. But, the clutch cover shouldn't contact that point anyways. Regardless, I cleaned up the material pushed over the parting line, and bolted it back up. Still a minor leak, but nothing I'm going to worry about at this point.

BUT.... I dropped the motor back in the bike Thursday night, and tried to fire it up, and couldn't get it to catch. It definitely turned over two times, but kind of burbled and sputtered out right away. Spent far too long kicking it over trying to get it restarted, but to no avail. Eventually I pulled the plug, and realized I had no spark. (Should have checked earlier, but didn't believe spark was the issue, because it had fired up twice, and because I never touched the electronics during the motor rebuild.)
Pulled the flywheel cover, and the flywheel was wobbly and non-concentric. When I removed the bolt, it pretty much fell off. It was sitting crooked, and not seated properly, because the tip of the crank taper was peened over from me hammering on it. (Long story short, my crank puller only fit on one side of the crank, so I couldn't pull it side to side, could only pull from one side, and had to push from that same side - hence hammering on the crank. Not something I would normally do, but was desperate at the time).
Cleaned up all the high spots on the flywheel and the crank, and bolted it back up. Now it was spinning nice and concentric (no wobble), and also seemed to sit deep enough on the crank. Also remembered that my brother has a spark plug tester in his collection of tools. So, put that inline with the spark plug. Kicked it over, and STILL NO SPARK!!
At this point - I tried pulling the flywheel again to poke around with a multimeter, and it came off quite easy (using my home-made flywheel puller). Is this normal? Should it be ultra tight on the taper if you had JUST installed it and were pulling it again? Maybe the tapers still aren't meshing nicely and I need to blue them (using machinist blue) and check the contact? Can anyone pull their flywheel cover and flywheel bolt and measure the depth of the crank inside the flywheel taper?? Maybe it's still not on all the way...
In my measurements with a multimeter, I found nothing obviously wrong, and also measured the resistance on the ignition coil to be 57 ohms. Is this in spec? The manual says nothing about resistance of the coil....
Now this is just getting frustrating. And I have next to no experience with automotive style electronics & ignition systems.
Any ideas?

Summary / questions -
Should the flywheel be hard to remove if it was just installed?
What is the depth of the crank inside the flywheel?
What is the resistance of the ignition coil?

Thanks for the help!

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