kdx220 fork identification

jake644 · Post by **jake644** » 11:26 pm May 31 2012

ok i just bought this bike a few weeks ago it is my first dirt bike and im slowly learning about it. one thing im lost on right now is the forks im 5' 10" 170 pounds with gear, im having alittle trouble with the height of the bike and my forks seem to be set up too stiff. i really only trail ride. i noticed that the right side fork was leaking. i have no idea how to work on the forks or the special tools i need if i need any? i would like for them to be set up for my weight and riding stile but im not sure what i need to do. i also need to know what forks are these. how much does it to have the forks rebuilt & re-valved thinks guys i hope to learn alot.

if u need anymore info let me know thinks jake.

Post by **SS109** » 11:59 pm May 31 2012

Looks like you have some early KX/KDX USD's with the fork guards that are on it but it is weird that the fork bodies are not anodized blue. Hmm. Well, I'll lean towards early KX forks since you have a height and stiffness problem. Getting them re-valved and re-sprung can be from probably a low of about $400 on up. That is figuring that the shop would supply new springs. You can save some bucks finding used springs on Ebay or somewhere else. Please fill out the location in your profile so others might have some suggestions on shops to use for the work. I personally like Donny at ZR1 Suspension (http://www.zr1suspension.com). He is located in Tucson, AZ. Great prices, friendly service, and fast turn around.

jake644 · Post by **jake644** » 01:06 am Jun 01 2012

ok what should i do im kinda lost here i dont really know what my bike should feel like because it is my first i know its really stiff and leaking oil

are the forks on it any better then stock? the bike is a 2001 by the way if that helps any.

Post by **SS109** » 02:10 am Jun 01 2012

First, let me make a correction to my earlier post. When I was saying $400+ I was talking doing both front and rear suspensions. If the rear shock isn't leaking then I wouldn't mess with having it serviced. The stock rear spring is good for 170-180 pound riders. Just the front basic service through ZR1 is $120. That gets you new fork oil and new fork and dust seals. A re-valve isn't much more if your already getting the basic service. New front springs are $105. I would do the basic service w/springs first and see if you really need a re-valve. You need to ride it for a while first so you can tell your suspension guy what you like/don't like about the forks in certain situations so that he can get an idea on what he needs to do for you re-valve wise. Who knows, it might actually work just the way it is for your riding style! Hopefully you can find someone local that is reputable to do the work. If not, give Donny at ZR1 a call and see what he can do for you.

You said it sits high up front, yes? What you can do to drop the front end a bit is to loosen the triple clamps and slide the forks up in them. This lowers the front end height, makes the bike turn quicker at the expense of high speed stability, and helps keep the front end from washing out as easily. Make adjustments in small doses as a little goes a long way in this department. Never adjust more than an 1/8" at a time or, even better, a 1/16"! After each adjustment take it for a ride with a little higher speed stuff, some tighter turns, etc. and see how it feels. Trust me, you will feel the difference pretty easy! If they are actual KX forks, you could end up with the top of the forks roughly 1/2" (give or take a little) higher than the top clamp.

OK, on to the actual forks! They are better in a few ways from the stock forks. They are stiffer (ie; less flex), have less underhang to get caught up in ruts and/or on other stuff, and, if they are KX forks, they should be adjustable for compression and rebound. You check for this last one by seeing if it has an adjuster on top the forks along with one in the very bottom of the fork. The bottom adjuster will be as if you were looking straight up the fork from the bottom. Should look something like this:

Slick_Nick · Post by **Slick_Nick** » 04:40 pm Jun 01 2012

Those are 100% KLX300R forks. Pre-06 by the looks of the upper tubes.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 05:18 pm Jun 01 2012

KLX300, single bolt lower clamps.

Check the oil height.

jake644 · Post by **jake644** » 06:21 pm Jun 01 2012

ok thinks guys are these forks any good?

Post by **KDXGarage** » 06:44 pm Jun 01 2012

Yep, better than stock, most would say.

High oil height can cause forks to be too stiff and/or blow a seal.

Post by **SS109** » 06:56 pm Jun 01 2012

KLX forks? Really? Those look like the same fork guards as the early KX'KDX that are so hard to find. Well, I guess you learn something new every day!

Slick_Nick · Post by **Slick_Nick** » 10:03 pm Jun 01 2012

Fork guards are fairly universal. I had the '03 KX style guards on my KLX forks, but didn't like the brake line routing, so I went with the '09 KX guards and not only do they look much better, the cable routings are much more sano.

The KLX forks are sprung for a 140lb rider stock. Respring them. They are excellent trail forks when sprung properly. To improve the bottoming resistance, raise the oil level. I believe stock is 120mm. I run 80mm and they work amazing.

Post by **SS109** » 12:32 am Jun 02 2012

Slick_Nick wrote:Fork guards are fairly universal. I had the '03 KX style guards on my KLX forks, but didn't like the brake line routing, so I went with the '09 KX guards and not only do they look much better, the cable routings are much more sano.

I know the early style fork guards are extremely difficult to find. I would be shocked that someone actually used them as, honestly, they suck! I would swap out to a later style and sell the old ones on Ebay to someone who will pay the bucks for them.

jake644 · Post by **jake644** » 01:18 am Jun 02 2012

Slick_Nick wrote:Fork guards are fairly universal. I had the '03 KX style guards on my KLX forks, but didn't like the brake line routing, so I went with the '09 KX guards and not only do they look much better, the cable routings are much more sano.

The KLX forks are sprung for a 140lb rider stock. Respring them. They are excellent trail forks when sprung properly. To improve the bottoming resistance, raise the oil level. I believe stock is 120mm. I run 80mm and they work amazing.

how do i do that im totally new to this should i take it to a shop like total control suspension? they are close to me and i think they worked on my brothers bike before he got it.

Slick_Nick · Post by **Slick_Nick** » 05:35 am Jun 02 2012

Springs, oil and seals are easy to change. There are countless videos on YouTube.

jake644 · Post by **jake644** » 06:28 pm Jun 02 2012

ok i think i can do this my self after watching videos but after looking around i have found it may be tough to find springs for it any idea where to get or should i just take them off sale them and buy a set of kx forks and do that conversion. but how much does that conversion cost? thinks guy yall are really helping me out alot

Slick_Nick · Post by **Slick_Nick** » 08:52 pm Jun 02 2012

Springs for those forks are $109 from Racetech.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 09:21 pm Jun 02 2012

www.racetech.com used to have KLX300 springs.

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