Engine removal and tear down

[KrispyKDX]

Ok…some bedtime youtube videos later…I guess I’ll order the tusk bearing separator.

[KDXGarage]

Do you have a local auto parts store that rents / loans tools?

[KrispyKDX]

I don’t have much hope but I will try some places…we are very poor in that regard around here. I might also try to it heat the inner side of the bearing and see if it can come loose.

[KDXGarage]

Can you just take it somewhere and have them do it?

Maybe a Tusk brand tool is not too much.

A bearing separator is another tool we buy to use one time, then let it rot in a tool box unused. :-)

[KrispyKDX]

Yeah I know…I have A LOT of unique use tools! I just ordered another one…
Crankshaft is now completely out…. I did use the case splitter on the other side to push. It came out the same way with the bearing still on the shaft so I guess I can say I will use the tool at least twice! Next steps will be to strip the halves from their seals and bearing and give a good cleaning.

[Slick_Nick]

Don't you guys have princess auto out there? Great place for "one off" tools and stuff.

Now that the crank is out, how's it looking? In need of a rebuild or do you think you'll run it as is?

[KrispyKDX]

Hello Nick,
Princess auto is on the north shore (there is one opening soon on the south shore). I ended up ordering a bearing separator from amazon. Will see if it can do the job. The crank looks good and is within tolerance I see in the manual. No up down play. I’ll keep it like that.
For your info all if interested, it seems the gnarly desert pipe is restocking. I ordered one since it was OOS everywhere for a good moment.

[bufftester]

Tusk bearing separator, Harbor freight also has one that will work. 9 times out of 10 the bearing stays on the crank. Crank discoloration looks like it was sitting in a bath of something for awhile inside the case.

Also a blind bearing puller is a must for the bearings in the case (shift drum idle, water pump, KIPS governer, etc) Or you could use bread...seriously, look it up.

[KrispyKDX]

Yeah bufftester…my assumptions is oil coming from the shot crank seal was leaking oil in the crankcase. This bike was very barely used in the last couple of years. Does it make sense?
One of the blind bearing have a very small inner diameter and it looks like the available kits I find would be no use for this one. I know about the grease, bread, wet paper towel, etc… trick so I may give it a try.

[Slick_Nick]

Make sure that crank isn’t grooved where the seals ride. Hard to tell from your pics, but if it’s grooved badly, a new seal may not take long to fail.

[KrispyKDX]

Thanks for the heads up Nick. No grooves that I can feel. I really appreciate your tips and precise things to look for.

[Slick_Nick]

Thanks for the heads up Nick. No grooves that I can feel. I really appreciate your tips and precise things to look for.

No sweat. Any surface that a seal rides on, like a countershaft collar, or the crankshaft, take some scotchbrite (red or grey) and give it a go by hand to clean it all up and provide a fresh, clean surface for the new seal to wear into.

[SS109]

And don't forget to use a proper seal grease when installing new seals.

[KrispyKDX]

Hello all, it’s been a while. Parts are taking forever to arrive!
I guess another advantage in going third party is parts availability. I went all Kawasaki OEM for my rebuild.
I was able to insert the bearing in the left case half. It was very easy with the bearing in the freezer and the case half in the smoker (ok without smoke!) at 200 degrees. I did protect the crank seal from heat with aluminum foil but at these temp I don’t think you’d have to.
Now waiting for one bearing that is B/O for the other half. Suppose to arrive mid-May.

[Slick_Nick]

What bearing you waiting on? I get all of mine through Motion Canada. Should be a branch out your way. I believe OEM Kawasaki for the KDX was NSK or Koyo? They have both, as well as SKF and some better brands. Not to mention about 1/3 the cost of what Kawasaki wants for the exact same bearing.

[KrispyKDX]

The only one I am missing now is the shift drum bearing.

[KrispyKDX]

Ok guys. Tell me I am way too picky here!
I found an equivalent bearing (size wise). It is the shift drum bearing. Original is NTN 6905-LU. I found a FAG 61905-2RSR.
The replacement bearing arrives with seals on both sides when the original had only 1 seal. No worries, I removed the seal on one side. But the is a difference in the size ( so obviously qty) of the balls in the bearing. Original has 13 balls and the replacement has 12. That probably translate to the major difference I see in the spec of both bearings. Original has a limit speed of 16 000 RPM where the replacement has 9 800 RPM.
What would you do? Throw the replacement bearing in there and forget about it? Here are pictures of the 2. Original bearing on the right

[SS109]

Not even a question for me! I would buy a bearing that meets the OEM bearing specs or better.

[Goat]

Haha! And I’m possibly on other side. If it is reputable name brand x-ref (like all balls or similar) I’d probably just use it.

[John_S]

That bearing barely even moves every time you shift and then goes 1/2 way back to it’s starting point. It’s the one bearing in the bottom end I wouldn’t have a problem not going OEM. You’d have to be shifting like crazy to even get one RPM.