2002 KDX220R Rebuild
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2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Anyway, onto the many questions to come and a some pics to show the process.
Starting at the back. Something going on here with the muffler pipe. Removed the seat and side panels. Tail light is pretty cloudy. Four different bolts/screws holding the lens on - creative. Found a broken bulb inside and the lamp bracket looked backwards so the lamp was hitting the lens and flopping around, ,flipped it 180. Buffed up the lens and took the fender off. Doesn't look too bad.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Pulled the muffler, mud flap and rear wheel.
Cleaned up the spooge on the pipe and found a crack. Bummer. Maybe weld or JB weld, not sure yet.
Packing looks a bit dirty. hah!
Ports on the inside of the muffler were all pretty much clogged. Found an improvised method to clean them. 12ga!
Trying the JB weld method. thinking this muffler is going to go up for sale since it's a powercore 2 and doesn't have a spark arrestor. setting that aside for now.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
The sprocket is only a few years old, had that installed myself. Going to replace the bearings on both wheels.
Rear wheel looks pretty good, except this crack. bummer.
Not really in the market for a new set of wheels along with the other repairs/upgrades I want to do. I know, it's probably dangerous to ride with a crack but going to see what happens here with some JB weld.
Pulled the front wheel also. Meter gear is pretty dirty since there isn't a cable or meter anymore. top of gear left open to collect dirt and grime.
Getting chilly outside and no heat in the old barn/garage.
- GATOROC
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Looking good so far! In case you're wanting a fix for the gear getting dirty, after seeing this idea from another forum member, I picked up a 59 cent Hillman 9/16" plug from Ace Hardware that fit perfectly in that hole. Here's a link to that thread if you're interested - Hillman 9/16" Plug
2000 KDX 220
2004 KDX 200
2024 Beta 300 RR Race Edition
2004 KDX 200
2024 Beta 300 RR Race Edition
- bufftester
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
I wouldn't trust the JB on that rim crack, best to take it to a shop and have them actually weld it. The frame is steel so welding would be good there. JB weld has it's place for temporary repairs, but it's more of a bandaid IMO. Other than that looks good. I know when I was stationed in North Dakota I had that same problem with my grass outside the shop turning white lol
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Good luck on the rebuild.
I second the "get the rim welded" suggestion.
I second the "get the rim welded" suggestion.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Thanks GATOROC, I was thinking the same thing and luckily there is an Ace just down the street.
bufftester & KDXGarage, yep, I'm going to talk to the local welder to see if he does aluminum and get that fixed.
bufftester & KDXGarage, yep, I'm going to talk to the local welder to see if he does aluminum and get that fixed.
- Molly's 70
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Before taking your rim to the local welder, try to remove as much JB weld as you can. Contaminates like oil, grease, paint & JB weld can make it hard, if not impossible to weld aluminum. The first 3 rules for welding aluminum are clean, clean & clean.
If you lend someone $20, and never see that person again, it was probably worth it.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Also, bad ass pipe cleaner you got there!
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
As I go through this I have some questions that pop up along the way that aren't necessarily related to what I am working on at the moment, but I want to plan ahead and make sure I'm using the correct parts and things like oils, grease, etc. I do have the 2000 manual so I'm going through pages 19 & 20 to see the maintenance schedule. Still learning.
I've been making an effort to run better fluids and started using blue marble oil with non-ethanol for the mix. I'm happy I did this since I've seen less carb issues since going the non-ethanol route. Any issues people have found with non-ethanol other than cost?
I don't see anything in the manual for the meter gear and after cleaning it looked like it had grease around the teflon gear part, but hard to tell with the grime. Should this be greased, and what type if so?
Missing a rubber swingarm plug on the shifter side. Can't seem to find that part on the OEM list but maybe I'm overlooking something. Any suggestions for where to look or is it discontinued?
Is there a recommended grease for swingarm, linkage, and wheel bearings?
I believe Dot4 for brake fluid, but is there a brand that is better?
Recommendations for coolant that the KDX likes?
For the swingarm bearing kits I see MSR 28-1064 and Pivot Works PWSAK-K11-020. About the same price. Is one better than the other? I think I read here that Pivot Works might be better but not as good as OEM?
Linkage kits, I see MSR 27-1036 and Pivot Works PWLK-K20-000. All Balls has a kit also with the same part number as MSR. Coincidence or same product? Again, leaning towards Pivot Works but curious about what others have seen for longevity when using these?
I've been making an effort to run better fluids and started using blue marble oil with non-ethanol for the mix. I'm happy I did this since I've seen less carb issues since going the non-ethanol route. Any issues people have found with non-ethanol other than cost?
I don't see anything in the manual for the meter gear and after cleaning it looked like it had grease around the teflon gear part, but hard to tell with the grime. Should this be greased, and what type if so?
Missing a rubber swingarm plug on the shifter side. Can't seem to find that part on the OEM list but maybe I'm overlooking something. Any suggestions for where to look or is it discontinued?
Is there a recommended grease for swingarm, linkage, and wheel bearings?
I believe Dot4 for brake fluid, but is there a brand that is better?
Recommendations for coolant that the KDX likes?
For the swingarm bearing kits I see MSR 28-1064 and Pivot Works PWSAK-K11-020. About the same price. Is one better than the other? I think I read here that Pivot Works might be better but not as good as OEM?
Linkage kits, I see MSR 27-1036 and Pivot Works PWLK-K20-000. All Balls has a kit also with the same part number as MSR. Coincidence or same product? Again, leaning towards Pivot Works but curious about what others have seen for longevity when using these?
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Blue Marble??
Non-ethanol is better.
Yes, the gear should be greased. I'm a Bel-ray and Maxima oil fan.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/kawas ... 9a04a21687
Again, Bel-ray or Maxima for me.
Maxima Racing brake fluid if you want something a little better.
Prestone 50/50 with distilled water. If you have issues, check and re-check the cap. Water Wetter, Evans, etc. are sometimes used.
Aftermarket bearings are cheaper and almost always not as good as OEM. Some of the OEM bearings are an industry size and can be bought from a bearing store. The OEM sleeves for the swingarm are not available from Kawasaki, so unless you find some on eBay or a dealer has some collecting dust on a shelf, go with Pivotworks.
Malcolm makes money, not bearings (just like All Balls and PivotWorks "knowing a guy" in China that makes them to their specifications.) I prefer PivotWorks over All Balls / MSR, etc. when available. If you pay a bearing manuafacturer enough, they will stamp your name on the side, too. :-)
Koyo, Timken, FAG, etc. are real manufacturers. MANY of the stock KDX bearings were made by Koyo (Japan). We'd all love a Koyo shopping spree, but our wallets make a strong argument against it. :-)
Non-ethanol is better.
Yes, the gear should be greased. I'm a Bel-ray and Maxima oil fan.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/kawas ... 9a04a21687
Again, Bel-ray or Maxima for me.
Maxima Racing brake fluid if you want something a little better.
Prestone 50/50 with distilled water. If you have issues, check and re-check the cap. Water Wetter, Evans, etc. are sometimes used.
Aftermarket bearings are cheaper and almost always not as good as OEM. Some of the OEM bearings are an industry size and can be bought from a bearing store. The OEM sleeves for the swingarm are not available from Kawasaki, so unless you find some on eBay or a dealer has some collecting dust on a shelf, go with Pivotworks.
Malcolm makes money, not bearings (just like All Balls and PivotWorks "knowing a guy" in China that makes them to their specifications.) I prefer PivotWorks over All Balls / MSR, etc. when available. If you pay a bearing manuafacturer enough, they will stamp your name on the side, too. :-)
Koyo, Timken, FAG, etc. are real manufacturers. MANY of the stock KDX bearings were made by Koyo (Japan). We'd all love a Koyo shopping spree, but our wallets make a strong argument against it. :-)
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Thank you kindly for all the information. Much appreciated.
Not to get too sidetracked on oil brand and jetting but to answer what I know so far...
Blue marble oil. Might be hype but seems to run better in colder weather, but I've only ran a tank so far this winter. That was at about 4,500 ft elevation with 40pj, 140mj, needle clip on center, not sure on air screw.
Interested if anyone has any information good or bad on this.
http://www.bluemarbleofmi.com/
I did have a weird thing happen last summer where it was bogging on the top end. Changed the spark plug and cleaned the carb but had same problem. Recleaned the carb changed jetting and still same issue. I ran at two different elevations with two separate sets of jets, 4,500 and 8,500 and same thing at both places. That concerned me and I started thinking powervalve clogging, reeds or maybe worse. But then last month I cleaned the carb again, changed the jets and ran the blue marble with ethanol free gas at 32:1 and didn't have an issue over a two hour ride. Maybe coincidence or could be something with the carb I guess.
Not to get too sidetracked on oil brand and jetting but to answer what I know so far...
Blue marble oil. Might be hype but seems to run better in colder weather, but I've only ran a tank so far this winter. That was at about 4,500 ft elevation with 40pj, 140mj, needle clip on center, not sure on air screw.
Interested if anyone has any information good or bad on this.
http://www.bluemarbleofmi.com/
I did have a weird thing happen last summer where it was bogging on the top end. Changed the spark plug and cleaned the carb but had same problem. Recleaned the carb changed jetting and still same issue. I ran at two different elevations with two separate sets of jets, 4,500 and 8,500 and same thing at both places. That concerned me and I started thinking powervalve clogging, reeds or maybe worse. But then last month I cleaned the carb again, changed the jets and ran the blue marble with ethanol free gas at 32:1 and didn't have an issue over a two hour ride. Maybe coincidence or could be something with the carb I guess.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Back to it. I like more pictures and maybe others like that too. Feel pretty good about the last few evenings.
Rear brake look pretty good. I originally thought I had a brake line leak but it was just spooge from the muffler crack above landing on the brake line. Guide hose clamps broken. Ordered OEM, pricey but went ahead and did it. I have some brake pads on order. Still need to replace brake fluid when that comes in. Cleaned up system and put two coats of each, primer, paint, clear on the lever. Looks better. Cleaned up chain guide. Two bents screws on the guide block but found exact replacements cheap at ACE. Guide block worn through so have that on order as aftermarket.
Rear brake look pretty good. I originally thought I had a brake line leak but it was just spooge from the muffler crack above landing on the brake line. Guide hose clamps broken. Ordered OEM, pricey but went ahead and did it. I have some brake pads on order. Still need to replace brake fluid when that comes in. Cleaned up system and put two coats of each, primer, paint, clear on the lever. Looks better. Cleaned up chain guide. Two bents screws on the guide block but found exact replacements cheap at ACE. Guide block worn through so have that on order as aftermarket.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Pulled the gas tank, carb, swing arm, linkage, and air cleaner box today. Feeling like I can get this thing apart now.
This looks modified with the holes drilled in the airbox cover. Guessing they were cut with a dull butter knife.
Lots of grime and gunk yet to cleanup. Most likely the muffler crack spewing.
Here is my redneck ingenuity to get the linkage loose, plus soaked some PB blaster on the threads for a few hours prior. Was really stuck but got them loose. Main bolt at the swingarm unbolted easy. Love the breaker bar!
Front chain guide is bent and looks like it has been rubbing on the chain, which made taking the master link off a cut-job since the posts were flattened out over the holes on the outside link. Bent bolts also, both of them.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Linkage looks to be in good order. Both double larger needle bearings look ok. This is a big win if I can keep these and just re-grease. The smaller needle bearing is rusted and toasted, will need to order that.
Grungy. Will cleanup and figure out what to do on refinish. Powder coat is the preference but may go rattle can.
All of the bearings on the swingarm look good to me. Thoughts? Would rather not have to replace so I can put funds in other places.
Chain guide came apart on the ends. Might check ebay or try to come up with a fix. The OEM is too pricey.
Not sure what this white crust is on the bolts. Some polishing to do.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
More cleaning to do.
Vent hoses on the carb cracked like dry chicken wings.
Starting on the rear shock.
I need to read up on this adjustment screw at the bottom of the shock.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Looking good!
The little bearing always catches hell. Go OEM if you can. People have reported OEM lasting longer than non-OEM.
If you need a rebuild kit for the shock, let me know. I have one (or more) for sale in the For Sale subforum.
The little bearing always catches hell. Go OEM if you can. People have reported OEM lasting longer than non-OEM.
If you need a rebuild kit for the shock, let me know. I have one (or more) for sale in the For Sale subforum.
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
Thanks KDXGarage.
I'm assuming the top of the shock is not a bearing, listed on the schematic as a bushing, since it isn't moving.
Also, is the 112.5 linkage rod the standard that came with the bike? That's what I have and that's what I'm seeing around for sale. The ones I have are fine but I want to be sure I dont have the lowered linkage rod.
Found this handy little tool at autozone for $5, called a valve stem fishing tool. Worked great for pulling the bladder cover. Bladder looks really good. Not seeing any signs of wear or cracks. Would like to use it since I plan on doing the shock oil every winter moving forward and can keep an eye on it. This looks like the original shock since I don't see any sign of grinding on the peening. Some sign of wear on the seals in the stack. Feeling pretty good that I got this apart without issues. Not super happy with my peening removal this first time, but I think it will be fine, still plenty of thread, deeper than the nut. Going to replace nut on the end.
I'm assuming the top of the shock is not a bearing, listed on the schematic as a bushing, since it isn't moving.
Also, is the 112.5 linkage rod the standard that came with the bike? That's what I have and that's what I'm seeing around for sale. The ones I have are fine but I want to be sure I dont have the lowered linkage rod.
Found this handy little tool at autozone for $5, called a valve stem fishing tool. Worked great for pulling the bladder cover. Bladder looks really good. Not seeing any signs of wear or cracks. Would like to use it since I plan on doing the shock oil every winter moving forward and can keep an eye on it. This looks like the original shock since I don't see any sign of grinding on the peening. Some sign of wear on the seals in the stack. Feeling pretty good that I got this apart without issues. Not super happy with my peening removal this first time, but I think it will be fine, still plenty of thread, deeper than the nut. Going to replace nut on the end.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
I think I need a new spring, something more in the realm of a 5.8 since I am a solid 220lbs of grown-ass-man in my undies. there are no markings on the blue spring so I have to assume this is stock and original unless there is a way to test it somehow. I heard that the KLX spring will fit this shock? Anyone know if that is true?
I could see how it works with the oil changed and some adjustments before buying one. May need to go on next year's replacement list.
I could see how it works with the oil changed and some adjustments before buying one. May need to go on next year's replacement list.
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Re: 2002 KDX220R Rebuild
The top part is a bushing.
Go with a 5.4.
Go with a 5.4.
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