Coolant and bottom end oil consumption.

[bufftester]

If you're having transmission issues, then check your clutch basket for wear. I would bet that the fingers have been hammered to death and probably some good notching going on. Easy to check since that cover needs to come off to split cases anyways

[Steven12191]

Could my clutch basket wear that much? There was a ton of metal in the oil. When I say I ton I don’t mean like a fair amount I mean it looks like metallic bronze paint. It almost looked milky but it’s just all metal in it. I’m gonna take my clutch cover off soon and look but I don’t see how it could throw that much metal

[Steven12191]

so I got to taking the clutch cover off and the basket out and laying in the bottom of the case there was a steel pin. The clutch basket had some pretty deep gouging on the outside but it should still be usable. That pin must have been loose in there the whole time I had it and grinding away at the basket and case. Now the thing is I have no idea where that pin is from. I was wondering if anyone whos rebuilt these motors can recognize it. I had some friends look at it to see if they know and I looked at parts diagrams but no luck. My phone camera is broken so I cant take a photo of it but enjoy this crudely drawn ms paint drawing of it, it's about an inch long for reference. I got new plates and basket ordered but I'm definitely worried about that pin.
https://cdn.thumpertalk.com/uploads/mon ... db1473.png

[Steven12191]

no idea why the photo uploaded three times but yea there it is

[KDXGarage]

Hi. It's like SS109 mentioned over there.

Also, search on here for clutch scratches casting.

[G22inSC]

Is this what you’re referring to as gouges on the clutch basket? If so, that’s completely normal and comes that way from the factory.

9E932D2B-D7C8-41F5-8A24-ED586D5C6A51.jpeg (2.05 MiB) Viewed 2885 times

[KDXGarage]

NEW SERVICE AVAILABLE!!

I will return your clutch basket to "LIKE NEW!!" status.

Is your basket too smooth? Are you not able to catch a fingernail on its edge?

I WILL GOUGE THE SHI* OUT OF IT FOR YOU!

[Goatfish]

Mine also would not shift properly and also had metal in the oil. I split the case and found that the neutral sensor was dragging on the tab that extends out of the gear change drum. Tiny bits would shear off and scrape between the drum and the case. The scratches would drop tiny metal bits into oil.

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Filed down the groove and shaved the neutral sensor down(I dont have a dash anyway) and no more metal bits. Or could try getting new sensor?

Not sure if its the same problem here though. Like others have said, split case to find out. It was my first time spliting a case and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Getting it all back together requires a little patience tho

[Goatfish]

On my bike the neutral sensor is a goldenish colour. When bits of that flaked off, it left a goldenish metal im the oil.

[KDXGarage]

"We ain't got that 'round here."

Thanks for mentioning that you AUS guys get something else we don't get in the USA. :-)

[Goatfish]

The US model doesn't have neutral sensor?
Its no good anyway. The drum has a little tab that catches on it instead of pushing it in. A bit of force and chips a bit of metal off.

But the oil injection is really a pleasure. I feel smug just talking about it :D

[Steven12191]

Is this what you’re referring to as gouges on the clutch basket? If so, that’s completely normal and comes that way from the factory. 9E932D2B-D7C8-41F5-8A24-ED586D5C6A51.jpeg

no about halfway up the basket there's a ring all the way around where that pin would catch between the case and clutch cover and gouge the splines. I ordered a new basket too because a couple of them are almost halfway eaten through. shame because that basket looked brand new.

[Steven12191]

well hello everyone! long time no see!! I've had the kdx apart for some time now have been piecing it together when I have time. I got the bottom end split and everything cleaned and inspected to make sure that that pin didn't cause any damage in my transmission and that any left over metal shavings were cleaned out. everything in the trans side of the bottom end looked good. the crank was alright as well, had a little side to side but still good. I did figure out where that pin came from. the power valve actuating arm on the clutch cover has a little bracket that's a piece of metal bent in a 90 degree and the pin goes through that. well, I was looking at my clutch cover and saw that the bracket was just a little flag of metal that had some sharp edges on one side of it. I looked it up in a parts diagram (part number 13236-1260) and lo and behold there's the pin I found! So currently I have the bottom end back together, a new piston going in it, new clutch basket and plates, that new arm piece, there was some damage in the governer for the power valve so I have new parts for that on order, and some other odds and ends. also this means that this whole time my power valve wasn't even working. whenever I rode it it always felt like it would kinda die up top but I figured since it was a super trail and torque oriented two stroke and that's just how it ran but ah ha!! now it'll have some top end kick as well.

[Steven12191]

oh one more thing, I don't think it ever really was consuming oil and coolant. for the coolant, I don't think I ever fully ran it after switching to Evans so I saw the level go down and got a little scared. and for the oil, I think I just wasn't checking it right or maybe not filling it right I'm not sure but I think all that was fine

[KDXGarage]

glad to hear you got it sorted out

lots of bikes have had the little arm / pin broken. Not holding the lever when removing is the usual cause. There are MANY threads on here about it.