KDXRIDER.NET

I've been lusting after a KDX for awhile now and I've finally pulled the trigger.

It's a 2001 KDX220R and I'm the second owner. My next step is to buy a set of bars and handguards for it. After that...get it dirty.

Nice looking bike! It looks like it is in really good condition. I'll go ahead and tell you this because all the 220 owners will tell you anyway: Put a Wiseco piston in it ASAP because the stock piston in the 220 is a time bomb. The stock pistons are known to explode and create a big mess inside the engine. You can get the Wiseco top end fairly cheap, a lot cheaper than a new motor. You will love the KDX, they are awesome bikes! Congrats.

Ditto. Also the 220 head gets a lot more benefit from RB's headwork than the 200 does. So, when you send your carb in for the RB mods, save some time and money by doing the head at the same time.

and i thought mine was sharp. that thing looks brand new!

but what is this about the stock pistons blowing up??? i never heard about this. how do u tell if they are about to blow up?

Roll the dice....

It's pretty easy, you look at the side of the swingarm, and if it says "220R" it is about to blow.

Seriously, there is no warning. The range of damage done by the piston ranges from nothing more than the piston and rings just need replacement (rare), to the cases get broken (also rare). The usual is the head, cylinder and crank bearings get dinged and need expensive attention.

This is just the 220's, the stock pistons on the 200's live long happy lives.

I will give you $200 for the bike, let me take it off your hands before the piston goes...I would not want to see anyone get hurt

Nice looking bike....congrats

Thank you for the replies. I bought the bike from a dealer that took it on trade. I'm the second owner. The sales guy told me those are the original tires, so the first owner didn't use it much.

My plan is to just ride it this summer, so I'm going to roll the dice and wait until this winter to do the wiseco piston.

cb350racer wrote:The sales guy told me those are the original tires, so the first owner didn't use it much.

I'm sayin'- looks factory fresh!

What did you pay, if you don't mind sharing?

cb350racer wrote:Thank you for the replies. I bought the bike from a dealer that took it on trade. I'm the second owner. The sales guy told me those are the original tires, so the first owner didn't use it much.

My plan is to just ride it this summer, so I'm going to roll the dice and wait until this winter to do the wiseco piston.

If that piston lets loose you are going to grenade the motor...you are taking a big risk. I know you probably want to ride it real bad but if that piston goes you won't be riding for a while and you won't like the repair bill Pick one or all the emotiicons you will be after the piston self destructs...

porterdog wrote:

cb350racer wrote:The sales guy told me those are the original tires, so the first owner didn't use it much.

I'm sayin'- looks factory fresh!

What did you pay, if you don't mind sharing?

I paid $2,600 CDN. I'm in Nova Scotia Canada, and this seems to be in line with KDXs of the same age sold privately. Considering the condition of the bike, I'm pretty happy with the price.

where is the cheapest place to get a wiseco top end? is all i need is a piston and rings and the gaskets?

I would recommend you also get the wrist pin bearings. If you buy the piston and ring kit it comes with the clips as I recall. Install the clips in the proper orientation so you can get them out next time, and they don't come out on thier own. I buy stuff like this from rockymountainmc.com .

http://www.psep.biz/store/kawasaki_dirt ... n_kits.htm
Here is a link to Wiseco pistons, your bike is about 3/4 of the way down.

Wrist pin bearing:
http://www.psep.biz/store/kawasaki_dirt ... arings.htm

Gasket set:
http://www.psep.biz/store/kawasaki_dirt ... et_set.htm

I have ordered all my pistons and gaskets for all my rebuilds from this place and their prices alays seem the cheapest for engine parts. I would just rebuild it to be on the safe side

Shipping for us to canada usualy makes it not worth buying online, I'd check out the price localy and compare first. The dealer should also be able to get you aftermarket parts and the delay is shorter than it will take to come in from the states. What ever time it says it will to ship always expect 5 more buisness days due to customs and even longer at chrismas.

wow thats a lot cheaper than i thought it would be only like $150

couple quesions:

i would get the standered size piston unless it needs to be bored right? then i would have to get the 1mm over size?

also how would i no how many cc my wrist pin berring is?

217
220
223???

thanks

pinitwot wrote:wow thats a lot cheaper than i thought it would be only like $150

couple quesions:

i would get the standered size piston unless it needs to be bored right? then i would have to get the 1mm over size?

also how would i no how many cc my wrist pin berring is?

217
220
223???

thanks

KDX cylinders are plated..there is no 'boring' in the sense of it being done to cure taper/wear problems. In the case of cylinder damage that does require a bore, the cylinder is replated afterward..usually to original specs unless you're after larger displacement for some reason.

So...yes. You get the 'standard' bore size...considering the thing hasn't been bored to a different size already (unlikely).

Re: 'how would i no how many cc my wrist pin berring is?'

That's easy. The answer is, 'None.'



Honestly, I don't understand the question. There is no 'cc' related to the small end rod bearing. I don't know what the numbers you list refer to, either.

The correct bearing is the one that fits the piston you buy (in this case a Wiseco) and the small rod end.

I don't know this for a fact (I ride a 200 and have used Pro-X pistons in my top-ends) but I'll bet it's safe to assume that the Wiseco piston will fit with an OEM rod bearing. Anyone that knows differnt, please so say.

For the record...there are those that say the OEM 220 piston is fine unless the bike is considerably modified. There are also those that have deemed the 'Change it or lose it' idea nothing more than an 'internet rumor'.

Both of those points of view are simply wrong. Bone stock 220's have fragged when the piston let loose, and it doesn't necessarily have to be a bike with thousands of hours on it to blow up.

If you value the bike at all..if you expect to ride it at all...the OEM piston has got to come out.

Everyone else that's stated that idea is correct...them's the facts of the matter. Not trying to beat you over the head with a big stick about it...but if you don't get the deficiency straightened out sooner than later, you're asking for it. Sometimes the end result can be resolved with a piston change. Sometimes it destroys the entire engine.

If you want to roll them dice, you aren't a thinking kind'a guy.


More old hat...the suspension needs to be serviced now (cleaned and greased). NOT doing that will 99.9% of the time result in money spent to replace failed parts 'cuz it wasn't done.


An aside..check that chain slack. The chain appears to be off the slipper in the back..and I don't see a corresponding slack on the bottom to account for that. With the bike on its stand (suspension unloaded) minimum clearance from the swingarm to the bottom of a lifted chain is 2.25" measured at the end of the slipper (chain guide screwed to the swingarm). A too-tight chain will bind the rear suspension.

well i would have to get one of thoes sizes.

go to the link that 91 KDX 200 posted you will see what i am talking about

Pinitwot-
I see what you are saying about the wrist pin bearing and "CC". However, the chart only lists a single part number for a bearing for the 220 regardless of "CC". It also shows the same bearing number for the 200, which is correct. The first time I bought a Wiseco piston I did not know it did not come with the wrist pin bearing. I put the used OEM bearing back in and it was fine. That is not a suggestion, just what I did.

Piston, gasket set, wrist pin bearing, you'll be good to go.

Just me, but I'd leave the stock bars for now unless you just hate 'em. Bark busters to replace those scoops would be nice. Those scoops do help in cold weather, I imagine. I've cut them down because the part that goes around the lever pivot looked like it would help keep dust out.

While waiting for the piston parts you could dissasemble the shock linkage and put some grease in there. I'd be willing to bet you a cracked OEM piston that the lower shock bearing is toast. They always are.

Now would also be a good time to send that head to RBD for him to do what he does. Best $45 ever spent, IMO.

Oh, you wanted to ride it, too? Maybe a little, just don't tell anyone.....

KX forks, revalve shock, maybe a pipe, RBD carb work.....It could be years before you ever ride that thing