Steve Sims wrote:I know this has been discussed before, but roughly how difficult, time consuming, and expensive is a piston replacement using a Wiseco and doing the work yourself? (Keeping in mind I'm not much of a mechanic, but don't mind trying).
If you don't mind trying you're 90% there . . .
PREP:
The service manual is a MUST if this is your first time on this bike. There's an online version (look at the top of the site) that I use and it's fine but, naturally, others like the paper copy. Become VERY familiar with whichever you use.
There are those who don't use a torque wrench but if you're a newbie at this you likely have an uncalibrated arm. Also, note that the cylinder base nuts require an adapter with the torque wrench - your manual should specify type and size (I think it's a 12mm or 13mm). Ask questions if this is puzzling.
Parts: piston, rings, pin, pin bearing, clips (order extras if you can), top end gasket kit (Vesrah, Cometic). Buy a gasket-remover tool (it's like a special scraper).
Read up on cylinder de-glazing. You'll probably want to do that as well - do some searches and ask questions if you need to.
When you get your new piston confirm the tolerances (or find somone with the tools for it). There's searchable material on this.
TIPS FROM A NEWB TO A NEWB, TAKE 'EM OR LEAVE 'EM:
Plan, plan, plan.
Give yourself plenty of time. After the piston is changed out you may indeed think, "that didn't take long" after which you will state so along with the others that can do it "in a few hours" and I will remain silent. If you're like me you won't say how long it took and we will be brothers in silence.
The online manual shows the disassembly with the engine out of the frame. You don't need to remove it - I didn't - but it IS easier to remove the head without the front and aft engine mounts to which the head is attached (even if it doesn't look like you need to).
The nut holding the lever at the end of the exhaust valve actuator shaft lever is LEFT HANDED. Your manual should state this but it's worth reiterating because apparently it is easy to mess things up. There's flat spots on the shaft itself to hold with a wrench while loosening.
Do check the ring gap.
Do be mindful that the arrow on the piston crown should be pointing towards the front of the bike when installed.
Do stuff a clean rag or two under the piston during removal and reassembly so that the circlips don't bounce their way down into your lower end (yikes!).
Consider getting some help getting the cylinder back in place after the new piston is in. If you can't find anybody, I used an Eric Gorr tip: I did this by myself by installing one of the circlips in the piston, starting the piston w/ rings and one circlip assy into the cylinder with the cylinder on the bench. Feed the piston far enough in leaving room to be able to install the pin and other circlip. Using the cylinder studs as a support, attach the half-buried piston onto the upper rod end with the pin and the other circlip. It's a little tricky but once you've got the pin and other circlip in place, simply align the studs with the stud holes in the cylinder and you've got it.
About your circlips - make sure they are seated correctly. This is going to sound silly, but if you "practice" with your old piston and circlips you'll get a bit of a feel for it.
Don't hesitate to ask questions. Hint: best time to ask is BEFORE you get started.