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Probably doesn't matter, but I see photos of the adjusters both ways in the manual, notches up, and notches down. By that, i'm guessing it doesn't matter. I've had 'em on both ways and it seemed to work regardless. Is there a right way?

I'll try this one more time. You can put the adjusters on two ways. They are stamped w/ numbers on both sides. they seem to work both ways, right side up (?) and upside down (?). I see them in the manuals on either way. Is there a "right" way to have them? Do we even care? Would a gift certificate for a free beer help in getting a response? Do you think i'm an idiot?

Funny thing is my manual shows them installed BOTH ways ?!?!?!

I'm sticking with teeth thingys facing up. IE axle going in from sprocket side first.

Thank you kindly. I'll do it that way as well, but I'm a little confused yet. First, it shows them as on differently on each side of the wheel. Is that how they are supposed to be? Don't make any confound sense to me. I've also seen two mentions of the adjuster permanently attached to the axle on the bolt head side, in different threads, in the last day, and neither of mine are. Is that certain years or something ya'll reckon?

You can see where its welded onto the axle in the top of the above pic. Weird...

I don't have the bike here in the living room w/ me, and it's to dang cold to go look, but i'm 99.9% sure both are loose units that you can remove. I've had the rear wheel off several times and i'm pretty sure i would have noticed if one was attached. What we have here is a bonafide conundrum.

i'm 99.9% sure both are loose units that you can remove.

it's the same on my 200 05. I always wondered the same question.
I will keep a close eye on this thread

Send em to me.. I can put a tack on it for ya!

I looked at some online parts fiche, and according to what I saw, it appears '99 was the last year for the attached adjuster, w/ year 2000 showing them as seperate pieces. For '99, it shows them in the rear hub category, and later years they are in the swingarm section of the fiche. I dunno what the advantage/disadvantages are, but for whatever reason they changed 'em. Send 'em to me, I can grind 'em loose for you! Upgrade your bike to new specs for the new riding season!

Send em to me.. I can put a tack on it for ya!

Send 'em to me, I can grind 'em loose for you!

stringburner wrote:I don't have the bike here in the living room w/ me, and it's to dang cold to go look, but i'm 99.9% sure both are loose units that you can remove. I've had the rear wheel off several times and i'm pretty sure i would have noticed if one was attached. What we have here is a bonafide conundrum.

LOL.

I am surprised we haven't heard form CC yet on this. He usually knows the physics of why things are done how they're done. And when he doesn't know he can make it sound like he knows.

you're pretty lucky if this is your biggest conundrum.

I like the notches up, and my adjustster is welded on so I have no choice. No conundrum for me.

I am surprised we haven't heard form CC yet on this. He usually knows the physics of why things are done how they're done. And when he doesn't know he can make it sound like he knows.

HA! Yes he does seem to understand the hows and whys of things alot more than most. Or he's a top notch BS'er.

you're pretty lucky if this is your biggest conundrum.

Nah, I got all the troubles everybody else has in life (wimmen, money, work, stress, etc). Plus I own a Ford Ranger, which spells trouble by nature it appears. Bought new, 200 miles out of warranty the maf sensor gave up ($250), 200 miles out of warranty, the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder turned to junk (and Ford, in their infinite wisdom, puts said cylinder inside the bell housing resulting in the failure of the clutch, pressure plate, and all associated parts when it commences to leaking, to the tune of $800)..*passing of time*..50,000 miles, check engine light indicates trouble although it runs fine, turns out the fuel tank pressure sensor is faulty to the tune of $385. Fixed, and now I can barely get any fuel in it due to "wooshing" backpressure. No problems found by FoMoCo techs. "WHEE" this is fun! Other than that, I love the truck. That 4.0 V6 is a powerful, smooth running powerplant.

I like the notches up, and my adjustster is welded on so I have no choice. No conundrum for me.

I see that. What continues to annoy me is that they show them as on opposite ways from side to side. Logic (what little I have) says that don't seem quite right.

notches up dont get bent as easy

I run them "tangs" up and they are both loose on the axle on my 2000. The only drawback I have found I ran into last night, if the adjuster is on about 6.5 or so, you cannot get clear access to the rear mounting bolt on the caliper.

Hmmm, maybe that's why they show the rotor side as opposite of the sprocket side. It doesn't look like the tang would block access to the bolt as they have it pictured.

Yea, mine is like the top picture, but with the tang straight up on about 6.5.

stringburner wrote:Hmmm, maybe that's why they show the rotor side as opposite of the sprocket side. It doesn't look like the tang would block access to the bolt as they have it pictured.

Then may be there is no conundrum? I am worried still for you.

Maybe I just think too much and end up overcomplicating even the most simple things.