V FORCE 3 air leaks

[JZ05220r]

As some of you may know the V force reed block can be prone to air leaks. I have assembled properly a handful of times using both gasket as well as with one. Even with the doubled gasket assembly I have found leaks through the threads of the bolts on several occasions. I thought about using some blue hylomar on the gaskets to help with that. Will blue hylomar be safe to use? Thanks

[SS109]

If it is gasoline resistant then you should be ok.

[Chuck78]

Hylomar is some pretty tacky stuff once dried... That may be a bit more permanent than I'd be looking to do for a high performance plastic reed block intake.
I recommended a Boyesen RAD Valve for my buddy, and I'm glad he got that instead of the V-Force 3 or even the new V-Force4, although i feel the VForce3/4 may slightly out perform the RAD Valve, I feel the RAD Valve is the better choice for quality and durability.
I've hear of VForce reed blocks cracking especially on bikes that are ridden in cold temperatures. I hope this doesn't happen to mine... I put a second RAD Valve on my shopping list for my other 220, but if I go SmartCarb SC2 36 on that one (requires frame dimpling and carb mods), I'll probably end up running the OEM reed cage with Boyesen reeds unless I can squeeze the SmartCarb in there, as the RAD Valve is closer in thickness to the OEM vs the thicker VForce reed blocks, which push the carb back further. The SmartCarb is ready fairly long and tall/wide, frame interference is already a concern with stock reed cage and intake...

[kdx633]

Use hylomar on just about every gasket on a bike.Never has it dried,as a matter of fact the gaskets typically come off easier than not using it.Yes it is fuel proof.

[JZ05220r]

Hylomar is some pretty tacky stuff once dried... That may be a bit more permanent than I'd be looking to do for a high performance plastic reed block intake.
I recommended a Boyesen RAD Valve for my buddy, and I'm glad he got that instead of the V-Force 3 or even the new V-Force4, although i feel the VForce3/4 may slightly out perform the RAD Valve, I feel the RAD Valve is the better choice for quality and durability.
I've hear of VForce reed blocks cracking especially on bikes that are ridden in cold temperatures. I hope this doesn't happen to mine... I put a second RAD Valve on my shopping list for my other 220, but if I go SmartCarb SC2 36 on that one (requires frame dimpling and carb mods), I'll probably end up running the OEM reed cage with Boyesen reeds unless I can squeeze the SmartCarb in there, as the RAD Valve is closer in thickness to the OEM vs the thicker VForce reed blocks, which push the carb back further. The SmartCarb is ready fairly long and tall/wide, frame interference is already a concern with stock reed cage and intake...

I actually run the rad valve on my E model 200. I’ll considering just selling my v force 3’s and throwing the rad valve on my H model. They seal better than both stock and v force blocks. For now I decided I’m going to start with the stock block and boyeson 607s.. I complained about the rad valve in the past but it’s clear to me that it works well on my E model. Thanks

[Chuck78]

What were your complaints about the RAD Valve in the past? Some say jetting is a little more of a fussy process with a RAD Valve.
Boyesen seems to do more model-specific research and development on the RAD Valve vs Moto Tassinari, but I have yet to hear any feedback on the new VForce4 ran on a KDX.
I do really like the better durability, better sealing ability, and ease of replacement of intake manifolds on the RAD Valves. I might be adding a second one to my winter projects shopping list...
Really hoping to get the other 220 rip roaring by April with Showa RM125 suspension, my first attempt at a modded head to match this 70mm 223cc ported cylinder, etc... & my '77 Suzuki PE250, & Suzuki Samurai TDI,/Toyota swap...too many big projects!!!

[JZ05220r]

What were your complaints about the RAD Valve in the past? Some say jetting is a little more of a fussy process with a RAD Valve.
Boyesen seems to do more model-specific research and development on the RAD Valve vs Moto Tassinari, but I have yet to hear any feedback on the new VForce4 ran on a KDX.
I do really like the better durability, better sealing ability, and ease of replacement of intake manifolds on the RAD Valves. I might be adding a second one to my winter projects shopping list...
Really hoping to get the other 220 rip roaring by April with Showa RM125 suspension, my first attempt at a modded head to match this 70mm 223cc ported cylinder, etc... & my '77 Suzuki PE250, & Suzuki Samurai TDI,/Toyota swap...too many big projects!!!

It’s hard to describe for me but I felt the stock cage with boyeson 607s was more explosive off the bottom and the rad valve was more controlled. Looking back I can see the rad valve actually helping with traction in certain scenarios. The rad valve also seemed to rev out alittle slower on top but still made as good power like the stock cage and 607s.

[pumpguy]

Have no experience with the reed valves discussed in this thread.

For air leaks along the threaded fasteners, I suggest using Loctite's low strength 567 sealant and thread locker.

I have discussed with Loctite's tech support if their products are compatable with petroleum products and they said yes, good with all petroleum products.

[JZ05220r]

Have no experience with the reed valves discussed in this thread.

For air leaks along the threaded fasteners, I suggest using Loctite's low strength 567 sealant and thread locker.

I have discussed with Loctite's tech support if their products are compatable with petroleum products and they said yes, good with all petroleum products.

I actually have used that exact stuff to seal up the threads and it worked great.

[SS109]

My experience of Vforce III vs RAD valve on a KDX. Vforce gave a much snappier and instant throttle response whereas the RAD valve, while still making good power, seems to mellow the hit and throttle response sort of like having a Lectron carb or auto clutch does.

[Slick_Nick]

Love my VForce 3. Using the supplied gaskets, I've never had a leak.

[JZ05220r]

Love my VForce 3. Using the supplied gaskets, I've never had a leak.

Don’t get me wrong I like the v force 3. The leaks were always through the threads.

[Slick_Nick]

Love my VForce 3. Using the supplied gaskets, I've never had a leak.

Don’t get me wrong I like the v force 3. The leaks were always through the threads.

Hmmm I’ve never had an issue. The stock airboot thing clamps down and ensures no air can travel outside the intended path. There is a bit of a raised “lip” on it that compresses to form a seal. Perhaps yours is a little worn out? Also, when installing paper gaskets of any kind, I always use a very very thin brushing on of a thick grease, to allow the gaskets to kinda slide around a bit and “settle” into their happy place.

[JZ05220r]

Love my VForce 3. Using the supplied gaskets, I've never had a leak.

Don’t get me wrong I like the v force 3. The leaks were always through the threads.

Hmmm I’ve never had an issue. The stock airboot thing clamps down and ensures no air can travel outside the intended path. There is a bit of a raised “lip” on it that compresses to form a seal. Perhaps yours is a little worn out? Also, when installing paper gaskets of any kind, I always use a very very thin brushing on of a thick grease, to allow the gaskets to kinda slide around a bit and “settle” into their happy place.

I know what you’re talking about, the built in o rings on the carb holder. Could be, not sure.