Fixing my power valve shaft mistake

[kdxdazz]

A video of my f%*k up

[pumpguy]

Interesting video. I wasn't aware of this cross pin to hold the actuator shaft in place.

I think reaming the burrs out of the shaft bore would have been a better choice. Using lapping compound is sure to charge the alloy bore with abrasive which might cause wear to the actuator shaft.

Plugging the drilled out pin hole could also have been done with epoxy or a small short screw held with Loctite.

[kdxdazz]

Interesting video. I wasn't aware of this cross pin to hold the actuator shaft in place.

I think reaming the burrs out of the shaft bore would have been a better choice. Using lapping compound is sure to charge the alloy bore with abrasive which might cause wear to the actuator shaft.

Plugging the drilled out pin hole could also have been done with epoxy or a small short screw held with Loctite.

reaming would have been better but i don't have a reamer that size, the lapping compound is just there to finish it off and remove any high spots and obviously all abrasive is washed cleaned then grease the shaft,
being a welder by trade i always look for metal solutions rather than epoxy but the screw and loctite would also work

[John_S]

Thank you for making this video and the other piston videos you made. I've not had a reason to the remove the shaft on mine yet but if I did, I likely would've done the same thing as you thinking it should come out after removing the screw.

I wonder if a strong magnet would pull that pin out enough to get a hold of it with needle nose pliers?

When you put it back together add a very thin layer of wheel bearing (or other high temp grease) to both sides of the gasket to avoid it sticking and having to scrape it off. I've had my cover off multiple times and the gasket isn't stuck to either side. I just keep reusing it and haven't had a leak yet.

[kdxdazz]

Thank you for making this video and the other piston videos you made. I've not had a reason to the remove the shaft on mine yet but if I did, I likely would've done the same thing as you thinking it should come out after removing the screw.

I wonder if a strong magnet would pull that pin out enough to get a hold of it with needle nose pliers?

When you put it back together add a very thin layer of wheel bearing (or other high temp grease) to both sides of the gasket to avoid it sticking and having to scrape it off. I've had my cover off multiple times and the gasket isn't stuck to either side. I just keep reusing it and haven't had a leak yet.
[/quote

thankyou for the positive feedback
there is no way a magnet would remove the pin as its wedged in there by the burrs on the shaft
i know the grease trick and its a good idea but ive recently switched to using a smear of threebond 1211 on the gaskets, can't be removed as easily as grease but a perfect seal is guaranteed , just takes a little extra time to take off the threebond with fingernails
the engine is all back together now, new crank seals, crank bearings, big end bearings ,piston, new plating, will try put together a video of all the different rattles and causes as i still see people posting online(not here) that a rattly engine is normal lol

[bufftester]

P/N 92043-1293 and it is specifically mentioned in both the service manual and the Cyclepedia manual.