KDXRIDER.NET

I tried calling RT but they were of zero help, is there some seal there or o-ring? I just got the bike recently and the front and rear suspension were gone through not long before I bought it. I'm wondering If I fab my own tool and try to tighten it down more? Or is there something I need to replace? I tried searching around a bit but couldn't find anything on this lower portion of the fork leaking. I just want to know what I have to order to get the ball rolling, the dirt is primo right now and don't want the bike to be down for long!

I appreciate the help.

I assume someone did not replace the copper gasket or did not use the proper tools to tighten the damper rod bolt to the correct torque value.

Here is a parts diagram of the forks.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawas ... front-fork

Look in some old posts for some info on how to properly work on the forks. Getting the factory service manual would be the best money you can spend on it.

I appreciate the input, that was my guess as well that it probably needs to be torqued, im going to fab up a tool this week. Already got a manual on the way :)

The tough part is keeping the damper rod from spinning when tightening the bolt. Without even a homemade tool, it is usually going to spin. You can use a broom handle (or a shovel handle) for disassembly, but potentially splintering wood may not be the way to go during assembly.

Here is a link to an eBay listing which shows a tool that is a copy of the OEM tool. The OEM tool is just the somewhat pyramid shape with four edges to grab and keep it from spinning. You can also use a 30 mm nut (face to face measurement) on the end of a shaft to place in the top portion. That is how the FRP Offroad tool is. Here's a link. His tool also has 27 mm on the other end to work on 1995+ KDX200 / KDX220R forks. The 30 mm end is for 1986 - 1992 conventional forks. It does not work on the USD forks. (UpSide Down). It might work on forks before 1986, but I am not sure.

https://shop.frpoffroad.com/FRP-Fork-Da ... ogId=-1039

Yes I've read all about the tool, I learned quickly as I tried to torque up that hex bolt. I was going to fab one up but for $35 I'll probably just order that one from FRP, thanks!

You are welcome.

For future reference in case someone else sees this thread, his tool is better than the later 1995+ OEM tool. His is not just 27 mm like the OEM tool.

Super simple to make the tool, just a nut on either end of a piece of pipe, when you remove the hex nut check the copper washer, if no. Obvious signs of damage you can heat it with the blow torch to anneal it then a smear of threebond 1211 if you have it , sealant shouldn't be necessary though

Thanks guys for the help I was able to snug up that hex fitting and it stopped the leak. Fresh fork oil now for the season and i even painted them too

Cool. Congratulations on getting it done.

KDXGarage wrote: ↑11:32 am Jun 01 2023 Cool. Congratulations on getting it done.

Now if i could only bleed my front brake line, i swapped it because it was too long. I've tried everything, vacuum bleeding, pushing fluid up through the caliper, nothing works

When I have stubborn one that doesn't want to bleed the first thing I try, if you're getting any pressure at the lever, is to do the old zip tie trick. Zip the brake lever down to the grip and leave it over night. Cut the zip tie off the next day and see how it feels. If it's good to go, go ride! If not, but is better, try pumping the lever several times to build as much pressure as possible, then hold the lever down, and tip tie it down and go through the process again.

SS109 wrote: ↑11:33 pm Jun 01 2023 When I have stubborn one that doesn't want to bleed the first thing I try, if you're getting any pressure at the lever, is to do the old zip tie trick. Zip the brake lever down to the grip and leave it over night. Cut the zip tie off the next day and see how it feels. If it's good to go, go ride! If not, but is better, try pumping the lever several times to build as much pressure as possible, then hold the lever down, and tip tie it down and go through the process again.

Thanks for the tip i'll try that tomorrow. I was able to finally get fluid out of the bleeder at the front caliper but the caliper wont move... lol. I've bled brakes countless times on autos but this is ridiculous. I'm wishing I never touched it.

Ok brakes bled! I had to take the line off the caliper, then submerge the end in brake fluid and pump the lever about ten times, then i reconnected and did the same thing at the bleeder. Ready for action once again!