91 KDX 200 Rebuild / mystery washers/shims NEED HELP

[JZ05220r]

I took apart the rear shock and as I was ziptying the piston, shims and valves together carefully I heard these two little shims drop. Can’t seem to find where they go but I attached a picture of the exact order I found everything in including the 2 mystery washers. Side note. The rear suspension was done by factory connection in the late 90s early 2000s based on the sticker on it. Does anyone know the stock shim sizing and ordering on the e series? I’m thinking about just ordering the stock shims whatever they may be.

[JZ05220r]

This is kept me up pretty late.... Here’s my measurements. (I am so new to this) I did some research on what I’m looking at and I came up with measurements for the rebound and compression. Obviously I still don’t know where those washers go. Does this look ok

[KDXGarage]

Are the washers there to space the nut up?

Here's a picture of the stock valving. I would not spend the ton of money it would take to convert it to stock. I would replace that worn face shim though (the one with the wear marks from the piston).

I can't find what the stock valving is.

1991KDX200shockparts.jpg (66.56 KiB) Viewed 1138 times

[JZ05220r]

Thank you I’ll figure it out. If I have to order a trashed yet untouched shock on eBay I will and figure out what the correct shims are.

[Molly's 70]

Sorry I am of no help.

[Slick_Nick]

Those are just spacing shims since the factory connection stack is shorter than stock. They go just on top of the baseplate.

[KDXGarage]

The outer diameter is to the left of the decimal.
The thickness in millimeters is to the right of the decimal.
Quantity above 1 is (x 2, x 6, etc,)

These were recorded in 2005. Writing it down is important. Remembering where you put it is too.

95 shock valving and my 94 shock valving.jpg (77.78 KiB) Viewed 1088 times

[JZ05220r]

The outer diameter is to the left of the decimal.
The thickness in millimeters is to the right of the decimal.
Quantity above 1 is (x 2, x 6, etc,)

These were recorded in 2005. Writing it down is important. Remembering where you put it is too.

95 shock valving and my 94 shock valving.jpg

Thank you for that. Very helpful as always. I was going to create a new post but was just curious if the outer shock body can be sand blasted to clean it. It’s real dirty and nearly impossible to clean by hand.

[Slick_Nick]

Yes it can. I prefer glass bead. Any time you hit aluminum with sand it makes it super dull. Plug the end so the shock bushing can still ride on a smooth surface. Doesn’t matter on the inside of the bladder chamber.

[JZ05220r]

Yes it can. I prefer glass bead. Any time you hit aluminum with sand it makes it super dull. Plug the end so the shock bushing can still ride on a smooth surface. Doesn’t matter on the inside of the bladder chamber.

Thank you. I’m just gonna have it sandblasted as I have a guy real close who can do it. I had my triples sandblasted so I see what you mean. Just want a uniform color again. The restoration is going great on my 91. I’ll post some pics when it is done in a few weeks.

[Goat]

Can I tag in on related question? Not sure if this needs new post but maybe will help later when you put it back together.

To adjust shock spring tension (sag) do you need to spin the spring while tightening down the preload nut?
On KDX I adjusted new spring by banging the nut around with punch (like most YouTube’s show) and not disassembling the bike at all. the spring did not rotate with the nut, during this method. It did not feel like it liked that. And I probably have grrrd some threads, getting it to 100.
On new KX, I was scared to knick it up so more careful & followed the manual (pulled 1/2 the bike apart) to cleanly access the spring. Had planned on using my head wrench to do a nice smooth crank. But didn’t have to. I just turned the spring by hand (like I saw in only one YouTube) 3 full revs and nut followed right along. Easy peasy.
Maybe I should have done same on KDX?

[JZ05220r]

Can I tag in on related question? Not sure if this needs new post but maybe will help later when you put it back together.

To adjust shock spring tension (sag) do you need to spin the spring while tightening down the preload nut?
On KDX I adjusted new spring by banging the nut around with punch (like most YouTube’s show) and not disassembling the bike at all. the spring did not rotate with the nut, during this method. It did not feel like it liked that. And I probably have grrrd some threads, getting it to 100.
On new KX, I was scared to knick it up so more careful & followed the manual (pulled 1/2 the bike apart) to cleanly access the spring. Had planned on using my head wrench to do a nice smooth crank. But didn’t have to. I just turned the spring by hand (like I saw in only one YouTube) 3 full revs and nut followed right along. Easy peasy.
Maybe I should have done same on KDX?

I would bet that the threads are fine. Spinning the spring usually helps for the initial movement of the preload nut. I would bet that your good to go. We’re you able to finish adjusting the sag?

[Goat]

Ty. Yes it adjusted fine to correct race sag no problem, just felt a bit grindy getting there during the final adjustments, using the punch.

[KDXGarage]

You may have dirt in the threads. If taken apart and fully cleaned, then a touch of lube, it will spin by hand as you tighten the nut.

[Goat]

Cool! You both make me feel a bit better. Ty