KDXRIDER.NET

I apollogize in advance for the length of my post. I want to be very thorough as I know that every detail matters. I bought my 95 KDX 200 10 months ago. It would start first kick and ran well, but extremely rich. It was obviously due for a top end rebuild as there was oil leaking from the RH advancer lever cover. I pulled the head and upon dissassembly of the KIPS, noticed that one of the sub-valves was missing and the other aluminum sub-valve was severely twisted and stuck in the open position. With the head pulled-off, I was able to free the mangled sub-valve from the port. I was also surprised to see that the actual pistion rings were still intact with very low wear of what appeared to be the stock piston ( marked with a C from factory) With the help of previous KDX RIDER posts, I found a pair of used subvalves from an 02 KDX 220 that were in decent shape, then reassemble and time them according to the manual (Although after seeing how badly the aluminum can wear, i strongly recommend a pair of steel ones from the U.K.). I was finally making progress the KIPS properly functioning, or so i thought. Upon firing it up, I quickly noticed that the advancer was not activating the lever. So I pulled the side cover, rebuilt water pump (I could see coolant in oil), and noticed my comp lever pin was broken off and in the bottom of case with what looked like a piece of a metal washer. Eager to find out what this was, I dissassembled the exhaust advancer and noticed 1 of the needle bearings and 1 spacer were damaged. I replaced the broken parts (92026/92046). This leads me to my current issue, I removed the governor shaft with the positioning pin (92043A), screw (220), and replaced oil seal (92049A), yet upon assembly to the side cover, it gets stuck and will not fit in without extreme force. I'm assuming this is wrong and perhaps the shaft may be bent. Any insight or knowledge relating to my situation would be gratefully received. Upon inspection the shaft looks pretty marred up around the support slot.

The shaft should not move easily once all is assembled as the governor spring is quite stiff. However, make sure you're assembling it correctly. I install the rod with the lever/pin and then install the governor making sure to get the pin in the groove on it.

Are you saying that the shaft is difficult to insert into the side cover? With the side cover off, the shaft should move freely. If the problem is inserting the shaft it may be slightly bent. Try inserting it and turning it to see if there is a position which allows it to fit. The locating pin goes in the lower slot on the rod, make sure that is clear before inserting the rod.

Thank you Bufftester for the advice. Working the well-greased rod with a little shimmy got it to set in the proper position and I was able to insert the positioning pin and small pan screw. I also installed a new rubber boot as the original was a mess. Tightened the lh threaded advancer lever bolt to 61 lbs./ft. along with the comp lever pin that bolts to the other end with 2 alan screws with loctite. Soo...everything seems great, except for im not sure if the new impeller/rebuild kit were installed properly. Should the impeller be able to spin free ly or with ease by turning the gear/rod? Mine is very hard to turn, if at all. I also bolted on the water pump cover with the new gasket and the impeller seemed to be obstructed by the outer cover. Can or should i take out the oil/ mechanical seal or possibly realign them?? I REALLY want to get the bike started to ride with my newly rebuilt top-end with a fully-functioning K.I.P.S.

So i got everything cleaned up and installed my side cover. I dont know if it matters, but I opted to keep the clutch cover on. Once i successfully lined up the advancer lever/main pinion and could feel the exhaust advancer (with pin) and impeller rod line up with their designed locations.. The problem was that i could not move the impeller by hand as the service manual states in order to mesh the gears. Is there a specific process that need be followed?? My impeller seems to now be stuck after i turned it with a wrench. It would spin in one direction, then tighten to the other. I put a washer on the front and back of impeller. Could this affect the clearance?? Idk any help will be much appreciated.

Don't add anything other than what the factory put on the impeller. The water pump impeller will not spin once all the gears are meshed together.

it sounds like you have your impeller bound up with an improper stack up. It should spin freely, and while you are installing the cover you move it back and forth to line the gear teeth up. As SS says, once the cover is on the impeller will not spin. There should be NO washers on either side of the impeller.

Thanks for all the input. I got my side cover/kicker/rh governor shaft, lever and cover. It was too difficult initially to turn the impeller by hand. Once I moved the kickstart lever by hand, the impeller seemed to mesh properly. I can now spin the impeller either way with slight resistance.
I am concerned about the washers that came with the kit i ordered. I want to remove them to ensure proper clearance with the pump cover. What would be my best way of removing my impeller nut at this point?? I was reading that one could put the bike in gear and hold down rear brake to to remover impeller nut without spinning.. Does any suggest this or any other method without remo ing cover again ( as i believe ive properly meshed the gears). Thanks again for any and all help.

kaidoooo1987 wrote: ↑11:03 am Oct 30 2022 Thanks for all the input. I got my side cover/kicker/rh governor shaft, lever and cover. It was too difficult initially to turn the impeller by hand. Once I moved the kickstart lever by hand, the impeller seemed to mesh properly. I can now spin the impeller either way with slight resistance.
I am concerned about the washers that came with the kit i ordered. I want to remove them to ensure proper clearance with the pump cover. What would be my best way of removing my impeller nut at this point?? I was reading that one could put the bike in gear and hold down rear brake to to remover impeller nut without spinning.. Does any suggest this or any other method without remo ing cover again ( as i believe ive properly meshed the gears). Thanks again for any and all help.

The impeller should turn easily by hand with the cover removed, and inner clutch cover not installed. If it binds, something is wrong.

Ok...After ordering a new side cover, I now realize that Im in the exact same situation I was in when I began this thread. I was able to find one from an '03 on EBAY. It looks to be in great condition. It came with the impeller and shaft already assembled. Bufftester was right, I must have incorrectly installed the mechanical seal, etc. because this one spins freely. There was much resistance while spinning the impeller in my other side cover. Anyways...Unlike before, when i was able to insert the advancer rod (part# 13234-1101) into the side cover with some movement, it doesnt lock into place correctly. If i get it to the right position, it is very difficult to rotate. I'm positive that the rod is bent or warped. I've only been able to locate ONE on EBAY (part was discontinued). If anybody knows of any place I could find a new one, please let me know. Meanwhile, I'm researching what kind of metal this is made of to see if i can have some kind of machinist straighten it. Does anybody have any suggestions or comment? I'm just getting my feet wet when it comes to working on bikes (or any motored vehicle) and I must admit that I've discovered another level of patience that I never knew existed . I'd be lost if it weren't for this forum . Thanks again.

Are you sure they're discontinued? Anyway, any 1995 and up 200/220 use the same shaft so you have a better chance finding one used.