220r only 90 psi after 4 hours on FRP ported top end. UPDATE: with better gauge 150psi, running rough though

[JZ05220r]

Stop riding it until you figure out what's going on. You could possibly be creating even more damage to the engine.

Once I get an accurate gauge what should I get for a reading? If I end up getting a proper reading with the new gauge will that dismiss having to check the leak down? Thanks

[JZ05220r]

Stop riding it until you figure out what's going on. You could possibly be creating even more damage to the engine.

Once I get an accurate compression tester what should I get for a reading? If I end up getting a proper reading with the new gauge will that dismiss having to check the leak down? Thanks

[JZ05220r]

Crazy question, but would it not be pretty easy to kick over at 90 psi? Did the "difficulty to kick it" change from then to now?

So I bought a nice gauge from motion pro and it’s now reading 150 psi. What do you think I should try next to remedy the power loss? Thanks

[SS109]

Yeah, basically 90 to 150 psi is acceptable. If I get down to 120psi I'm doing a top end but that's me.

As for the power loss, time to start going through the basics. Is your air filter clean and properly oiled? Have you tried a fresh NGK BR8ES plug? Have you checked that the powervalves are installed correctly and moving freely? Is your silencer freshly packed and in good mechanical shape? What's your jetting - main, pilot, which needle and clip position, and air screw turns? Are you getting good fuel flow to the carb? Is your float height correct? Have you checked the jet block gasket? Leakdown test?

[JZ05220r]

Yeah, basically 90 to 150 psi is acceptable. If I get down to 120psi I'm doing a top end but that's me.

As for the power loss, time to start going through the basics. Is your air filter clean and properly oiled? Have you tried a fresh NGK BR8ES plug? Have you checked that the powervalves are installed correctly and moving freely? Is your silencer freshly packed and in good mechanical shape? What's your jetting - main, pilot, which needle and clip position, and air screw turns? Are you getting good fuel flow to the carb? Is your float height correct? Have you checked the jet block gasket? Leakdown test?

I have tried a fresh BR8es plug. I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate. I freshly repacked the silencer making sure it didn’t get obstructed upon assembly. The main is a 160 pilot is a 45 at 1 turn out. The needle is stock and I’m pretty sure I have it on the 2nd clip if not the 3rd. Fuel flow seemed adequate but I will double check that. Haven’t messed with jet block gasket. The carb was bored by FRP to a 36mm, not sure if he covered that. Still haven’t performed the leak down test. I have never done a leak down test and my air compressor won’t hook up to one as far as I can tell. The motion pro leak down tester with the pump bulb would be nice but it’s so expensive. Thanks

[SS109]

I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.

You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.

Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.

[JZ05220r]

I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.

You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.

Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.

Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? Thanks

[Slick_Nick]

I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.

You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.

Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.

Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? Thanks

Just remove the arm cover and manually turn the actuator arm.

[JZ05220r]

You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.

Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.

Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? Thanks

Just remove the arm cover and manually turn the actuator arm.

I will check that out. Thanks

[JZ05220r]

I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.

You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.

Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.

Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? Thanks

Here’s 3 pictures for each valve closed.. Thanks

[JZ05220r]

I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.

You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.

Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.

Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? Thanks

Heres 3 with them open while manually turning the actuator rod with a wrench. The actuator doesn’t return on its own at all unless I put a little pressure with a wrench to return it back.

[SS109]

Ok, we've eliminated the KIPS. It looks like it is operating like it should. I would do a leakdown test next to make sure it's not an air leak in the bottom end. If you look up online you can make a cheap one yourself (If I remember correctly I think even a member here has dosumented how they made one) for about $20-30.

[JZ05220r]

Ok, we've eliminated the KIPS. It looks like it is operating like it should. I would do a leakdown test next to make sure it's not an air leak in the bottom end. If you look up online you can make a cheap one yourself (If I remember correctly I think even a member here has dosumented how they made one) for about $20-30.

So is the fact the it won’t return closed on its own when manually turning the actuator shaft a normal thing? Same thing when I turn the hex under the small inspection cap.

[SS109]

No, that is not normal. Something is broken and you'll need disassemble the top end to find out. You said earlier that the KIPS shaft rotated when the engine revved up. Did it close on it's own then?

[JZ05220r]

No, that is not normal. Something is broken and you'll need disassemble the top end to find out. You said earlier that the KIPS shaft rotated when the engine revved up. Did it close on it's own then?

It did but not very quickly.

[SS109]

Hmm, really weird considering you said Fredette assembled the top end. I would start going through all of it to make sure everything is fitted properly and working correctly.

[KDXGarage]

Did you get it plated? Any chance the subvalve ports have a little build up, preventing smooth operation?

[JZ05220r]

Did you get it plated? Any chance the subvalve ports have a little build up, preventing smooth operation?

It was replated but like mentioned it was done by the FRP who I’m sure is one of the best in the world to work on a Kdx. Everything seems pretty clean. Their is a noticeable notchy feeling at the end of the actuator arms stroke when I go to manually return it counter clockwise.

[JZ05220r]

Did you get it plated? Any chance the subvalve ports have a little build up, preventing smooth operation?

I’m also noticing when turning the gear below the slotted cap I that their is no spring tension until I turn it about the first 1/4 of the movement counterclockwise.

[SS109]

You might just need to adjust it the KIPS. Eh, it's worth a shot.