What parts should I machine for the 220?

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MoonStomper
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by MoonStomper »

Aha! Just remembered two parts that I would buy if you could build them…
#1 - wheel spacer that replaces the speedo gear on the front wheel for the OEM fork/wheel hub. Zeta used to make one, but they no longer make it and have no interest in bringing it back (yes I asked!).

Example…
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9D909CEA-1D41-4831-9097-99EB502F8281.jpeg (68.04 KiB) Viewed 3021 times

# 2 - one piece handlebar top clamp for the modern 1/18” Pro Taper /Renthal bars. Prevents unwanted twisting and rotation when dropping the bike. Scott makes one that is designed for their stabilizer, but it’s rather clunky by itself. Something anodized would look cooler too.
4E2D4605-2518-4E8D-90A6-5B6C7C7FAB74.jpeg
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by Kawibunga »

As a guy currently employed at a large machine shop as their Engineering Manager........ with 25 years of R&D design experience (oilfield) and Solidwork at home and here..... I LOVE THIS THREAD!!!!! So awesome.........

Whocares - I'm actually of the exact same mindset as yourself. Just not as far along. Am actually ordering a 3D printer today (PRUSA MK3S)to fool around with this sort of thing on my KDX and Versys. When I get there, I'll send you some solid models (STP files?) or what every format you like to play with and check out.

And as some said, I don't think anyone is doing this to make money, more like pay for expenses! I was just thinking today wondering if I could build me a KDX version of these, and what people would be willing to pay.
https://pantheramotorsports.com/yz250-2 ... tric-start
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by javjacob »

Interested to see what you do. Might have some ideas once summer comes around and I get the bike out.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by doakley »

Kawibunga, I’d be up for an clean design e-start system for my KDX. If you could make it for the price of the one for the YZ I’d pay.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by SS109 »

Kawibunga wrote: 01:01 pm Jan 28 2022 ...and what people would be willing to pay.
https://pantheramotorsports.com/yz250-2 ... tric-start
I'm already working on that as well! :mrgreen: The only thing I got to work out is the machined and cast parts.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by MoonStomper »

The reality is that Kawasaki is no longer supporting certain parts for these bikes, just like other brands have done with their older models. Many other brand aficionados have gone the route of manufacturing their own crucial parts to keep their machines running. No reason why we can’t combine our talents and do the same.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by whocares191 »

@MoonStomper I have that same issue with my wheel and need a spacer. When i take my wheel off ill measure it and see if i have some material at work. I can definitely make that and it wont take long to do. I can also use that top clamp and have made them before, ill put that on my list.

@Kawibunga Wow that's pretty cool, you'll love that prusa. I wanted one but opted for the cheaper ender on sale for 120 bucks at the time and upgraded it with a https://store.micro-swiss.com/ and a few other things. It always a pain but it was cheap lol. I use it a lot to check parts at work. I used to bootleg solidworks and mastercam 2018 since they were on the computer when i learned. It's such and amazing combo but with this new machine I needed a good post processor and good machine simulation so we went with fusion 360. I hate it but its $500 a year, 300 on sale lol. As for the electric start I would pay 1500 easily for it, its way cheaper than a te300i lol.

Also I have a couple questions for anyone who can answer. my bike came with the boyeson rad valve and it still looks really clean. I ordered a lectron and I know its going to be horrible to get on, so is getting a vforce3 worth it? I read that its better than a rad valve but thats an extra 150 i could spend on a new chain and sprocket. the second question is if fork conversion worth it. I see some online for like $300 and would be planning to spend near $1000 to have that fork and my shock rebuilt. Or I can just rebuild my stock fork and shock myself with stiffer springs.

Side note, I checked the water pump guard and it fits good but its too close to the brake pedal so i'm going to make some changes. I have my head at rb, and sending my cylinder to millennium for replating. Hoping to make a few bling parts for the kips while i wait. I have the right side shaft cover, the front main valve cover, and the left side empty cover that says kips. is that just there for volume? I'm also going to try and make that hose connection on the head. The question is what color should I anodize them?
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by SS109 »

whocares191 wrote: 01:07 am Jan 29 2022As for the electric start I would pay 1500 easily for it, its way cheaper than a te300i lol.
I agree. A retrofit would be a lot cheaper than a new bike!

I'm not even close to getting the price worked out on the setup I'm working on. It would be a complete plug and play system minus a battery. I might have to farm out some of the work which would affect the overall cost, but I'm expecting to keep the price well under a $1000 but we'll see. The starter will just run off a battery until drained. If you want to charge the battery while riding it will need a Slick_Nick style stator rewind and a regulator/rectifier at minimum to convert over for DC output.

Want to make a stator plate for me? LOL! :mrgreen: I'm also looking into doing an KDX SR type stator setup that, if I can fit two of Nick's rewound lighting coils on it, should give about 140 watts AC or 70 watts DC at idle and 200 AC/100w DC at riding speed.
whocares191 wrote: 01:07 am Jan 29 2022Also I have a couple questions for anyone who can answer. my bike came with the boyeson rad valve and it still looks really clean. I ordered a lectron and I know its going to be horrible to get on, so is getting a vforce3 worth it? I read that its better than a rad valve but thats an extra 150 i could spend on a new chain and sprocket. the second question is if fork conversion worth it. I see some online for like $300 and would be planning to spend near $1000 to have that fork and my shock rebuilt. Or I can just rebuild my stock fork and shock myself with stiffer springs.
I've run both and think both are good. I have the RAD Valve (w/carbon Pro reeds) on my modified 220 and have been extremely happy with it. However, if you're going to go with the Lectron, and it makes fitting it way easier, it might be the way to go.
whocares191 wrote: 01:07 am Jan 29 2022the second question is if fork conversion worth it. I see some online for like $300 and would be planning to spend near $1000 to have that fork and my shock rebuilt. Or I can just rebuild my stock fork and shock myself with stiffer springs.
I say USD's are well worth it but it depends on what you want to do with your bike, how good/fast a rider you are, and your budget. The stock forks and shock can both be made to work very well for pure off road riding. The only real negatives on the stock forks is no rebound adjustment and they flex too much for me but maybe not for you. (only you can answer that!) When speeds get above about 20mph over rough terrain the stock forks have crashed me many times due to their flex so I ditched them for the way stiffer USD forks. I will say the stock forks are honestly some of the best I've ever felt when riding really slow technical (ie; extreme enduro stuff) type terrain.
whocares191 wrote: 01:07 am Jan 29 2022Side note, I checked the water pump guard and it fits good but its too close to the brake pedal so i'm going to make some changes... ...I have the right side shaft cover, the front main valve cover, and the left side empty cover that says kips. is that just there for volume? I'm also going to try and make that hose connection on the head. The question is what color should I anodize them?
Cool. Can't wait to see what the finished water pump guard looks like.

Yes, the cover that says KIPS on it is there for exhaust track volume. There's a guy over on TT who recently did some dyno testing on various sized KIPS cover volumes and it was quite enlightening.

For anodizing color... no clue. Most greens look awful. The tend to look more yellow than green but a nice medium to dark green would look nice. Blue was a color that was pretty synonymous with Kawasaki on the KX and KDX bikes so that's an option. Black could look very cool. I know, I'm not helping! LOL! :lol:
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by KDXGarage »

Some people remove the tripmeter cable from the tripmeter drive unit. An aftermarket plug used to be available to plug the opening after the cable was removed. That might be another option if the wheel spacer does not work out.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by MoonStomper »

After yanking my odo cable out in some bushes in my first hare scramble I ditched it permanently. The odometer plug you want is a Hillman plastic plug, found it at Lowes in the screws/bolts aisle. Put a little shoe goo on it and slipped it in. Would rather have a blue anodized spacer though. I like the blue or gold ano on the KDX best. The green you see every where is so inconsistent and I hate the dark green.

Stator cover - I’d like to have one with some sort of custom design or logo on it, but don’t know what I’d want! Would probably bronze Cerakote it. I like the Boyesen cover, we can still get it directly from them for the H model, but it’s pricey, $85.
B399E8B2-FF50-4351-A0CB-80EB67A7C986.jpeg
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Let the good times ROLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by Slick_Nick »

MoonStomper wrote: 10:39 am Jan 29 2022 After yanking my odo cable out in some bushes in my first hare scramble I ditched it permanently. The odometer plug you want is a Hillman plastic plug, found it at Lowes in the screws/bolts aisle. Put a little shoe goo on it and slipped it in. Would rather have a blue anodized spacer though. I like the blue or gold ano on the KDX best. The green you see every where is so inconsistent and I hate the dark green.

Stator cover - I’d like to have one with some sort of custom design or logo on it, but don’t know what I’d want! Would probably bronze Cerakote it. I like the Boyesen cover, we can still get it directly from them for the H model, but it’s pricey, $85.

B399E8B2-FF50-4351-A0CB-80EB67A7C986.jpeg
Are you talking about a spacer to delete the stock odometer drive on the stock forks? I have one laying around here somewhere. I could anodize it blue or gold for you if you're interested, send me a message.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by MoonStomper »

Yes, that’s the one! Zeta made them for awhile, but no longer. Blue would be fine. Thanks!
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by whocares191 »

@SS109 I would be into making the plate for the stator. Right now I have the stock stator with a polysport mmx headlight and ufo rear fender w/ light to wire up. hoping it works okay, not planning on using it for night rides or street riding. Would i need to rewind the stator to add a trailtech meter on? I was look at the endurance, vapor, or voyager gps. I'm guessing the voyager needs a lot of power and wont fit well with my flexx bars. I have a garmin gpsmap 62sc I can throw in my backpack so maybe an endurance is the best choice and im sure i can fit it into the foam on my bars with a good mount.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by Slick_Nick »

whocares191 wrote: 07:12 pm Jan 29 2022 @SS109 I would be into making the plate for the stator. Right now I have the stock stator with a polysport mmx headlight and ufo rear fender w/ light to wire up. hoping it works okay, not planning on using it for night rides or street riding. Would i need to rewind the stator to add a trailtech meter on? I was look at the endurance, vapor, or voyager gps. I'm guessing the voyager needs a lot of power and wont fit well with my flexx bars. I have a garmin gpsmap 62sc I can throw in my backpack so maybe an endurance is the best choice and im sure i can fit it into the foam on my bars with a good mount.
The problem with a lot of those accessories is that they only accept a 12V DC electrical system. The KDX system is AC. You will need to do some modifications and install a rectifier, etc to get them to work.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by whocares191 »

@Slick_Nick Ahh gotchya, do you know of any high quality waterproof switches for the light that would work well? the oem one i have is pretty tattered and dont mind making a mount for anything i get.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by Slick_Nick »

whocares191 wrote: 08:44 pm Jan 29 2022 @Slick_Nick Ahh gotchya, do you know of any high quality waterproof switches for the light that would work well? the oem one i have is pretty tattered and dont mind making a mount for anything i get.
Just get one off of RMATV or something.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by Kawibunga »

The other crazy idea for machining and building I was considering is Oil Injection. Ya I know, why would you want it??!! I had a 97 cr500 on the street for a few years and may have actually kept it if it had electric start and oil injection. One of my boys 220's has a street titled frame. If I converted it to a dual sport I always thought injection would be the way to go............ But that would be a serious science project! As ideally one would map it via RPM and Throttle position. And I'm a mechanical guy, only know enough about electronics to be dangerous, but I know a sharp local electronics guy I used to work with, and SS109 looks to have that exact skill set as well! One project at a time.......
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by SS109 »

whocares191 wrote: 07:12 pm Jan 29 2022 @SS109 I would be into making the plate for the stator. Right now I have the stock stator with a polysport mmx headlight and ufo rear fender w/ light to wire up. hoping it works okay, not planning on using it for night rides or street riding. Would i need to rewind the stator to add a trailtech meter on? I was look at the endurance, vapor, or voyager gps. I'm guessing the voyager needs a lot of power and wont fit well with my flexx bars. I have a garmin gpsmap 62sc I can throw in my backpack so maybe an endurance is the best choice and im sure i can fit it into the foam on my bars with a good mount.
You can actually run most of that stuff on AC. Only the Voyager requires DC where the Vapor, Endurance, and the old Vector (which I have) run on AC or DC voltage. That said, yeah, rewinding the stator for higher output would be prudent as the headlight/taillight eats up everything the stock stator can produce. If you want to go to more powerful lights, especially powerful LED types, then a DC conversion would be the way to go.

My end goal is a 140 watt DC system that will support a battery, way better lighting, and electric start. I might even add a USB charger for myself on there for good measure. :mrgreen: I will science out the wiring and hookup of everything to make it easy for anyone to be able to do it. I want to build a 100% plug and play setup for AC or DC depending on what someone wants.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by doakley »

FWIW, I’m getting ready to install an Endurance on my 220. Per the endurance install instructions I intend to simply splice into the headlight wire on my Polisport headlight. On the Endurance this wire only powers the backlighting for a little better visibility.
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Re: What parts should I machine for the 220?

Post by whocares191 »

@Kawibunga i think there was a version of the kdx that had an oil feeder but im not sure. If it was a really solid system that would be awesome but if it happened to fail you blow your motor :hmm:

@SS109 looks like i need to just rewind the stator for now and later when theres an option for electric start ill do it all up. If you need help making that plate let me know.

@doakley have you rewound your stator or is it stock? the only things left i need to pick up for my rebuild is a shifter, freddett kick lever, and the trailtech. did you get the endurance 2?


im going to try to get to those pump cover changes this week and hopefully have something machined this weekend to show you all.
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